Those are actually 10/32 pan head screws and 10/32 bolts. I installed floating self locking nutplates at all the old pop rivet locations. It makes removing and reinstalling the belly pan much easier. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com.../nutplates.pdf
It takes more time to install nutplates then pick up the holes on the new sheet but worth it in the long run. It also takes more tools like the drilling jig and the #40 microstop countersink and the rivet gun to pull 3/32 countersunk blind rivets. It's all about the tools. I'm sure glad I'm not buying all this stuff at once like a lot of you are.
Those are actually 10/32 pan head screws and 10/32 bolts. I installed floating self locking nutplates at all the old pop rivet locations. It makes removing and reinstalling the belly pan much easier. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com.../nutplates.pdf
Kip, in the data sheet, what is the material that is abreviated "cres."? The other material is steel. Is this "cres" stuff the pewter-looking gray material?
Those are actually 10/32 pan head screws and 10/32 bolts. I installed floating self locking nutplates at all the old pop rivet locations. It makes removing and reinstalling the belly pan much easier. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com.../nutplates.pdf
Somehow, I am not seeing photos of the belly pan referred to in this part of your project. Are there pictures in another location?
I's love to see more about the nut plates. I was just thinking about reconfiguring the former black tank area on my Trade Wind into a spare tire holder. I wonder if that would add more weight to the back end than necessary?
Anyway, with compartments in the belly pan, it seems to me like it would be easier to service tanks, tire storage, and other possible storage areas.
Can you post some photos of how you installed the nutplates, and how they work?
Somehow, I am not seeing photos of the belly pan referred to in this part of your project. Are there pictures in another location?
I's love to see more about the nut plates.
Check out post number 178 for the belly pan. The photos aren't close ups of the nut plates. However, maybe Kip will post some close ups of them. I would be interested in seeing them too.
__________________
Todd
“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
It takes more time to install nutplates then pick up the holes on the new sheet but worth it in the long run. It also takes more tools like the drilling jig and the #40 microstop countersink and the rivet gun to pull 3/32 countersunk blind rivets. It's all about the tools. I'm sure glad I'm not buying all this stuff at once like a lot of you are.
Kip, Can I buy these tools at Harbor Freight? Just joking... I know that good tools cannot be purchased there. You are doing one hell of a fine job. every time I check in I am more impressed. Please pat yourself on the back for me.
I use nutplates on Zip Dee installations whenever I can get at the inner side of the shell in those locations.
Here's what I am doing on the Safari--this is the front window arm attachment point. I use doublers on the outside as well as the inside, and appropriate shims to adjust for the skin joint on the outside and the rib on the inside. The inner doubler with nutplates that you see in the photo is for the other attachment point and is just balanced on the clecos here.
Note that you need to use flush rivets to attach both the doubler(s) [even if you only have a doubler on the inside], and the nut plates (called anchor nuts in some catalogs). Flush aircraft-quality 1/8" pop rivets are available. I have no clue where Kip got the 3/32 flush pop rivets (which are required for the nut plates)...
I also did this in another thread for the upper attachments on my Sovereign. The photo may be a little confusing, since the upper vista view window has been replaced with a patch. Also, the exterior photos in the thread below are a mix of the front and back attachment points, which are mirror images of each other--ack.
umm, the "drilling jigs" allow precise drilling of the holes for the nut plate attachment rivets in relation to the fastener hole, right? You could make a poor man's version, but it should be out of steel strap--aluminum would pretty quickly have enlarged holes from drill bit wander? [ok, I know with the poor man's version you'd have to hold the fastener to keep the tool aligned, then you'd have to also hold a long rivet in the first hole to continue to keep the tool aligned--painful but cheap.]
How did the microstop work in the steel frame? I thought that bit was only for aluminum.
The microstop has a #40 piloted countersink installed are they work work well with all metals. The part number for the 3/32 countersunk pop rivets is CCR264SS-3-03
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