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Old 02-11-2016, 07:41 PM   #15
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It's looking good!
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Old 02-11-2016, 09:04 PM   #16
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Two things, I had great luck using Citrastrip on that black goop, coat it , cover with plastic, leave overnights and wipe off the next day.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but you're not planning on using pop rivets ( the kind the ace gun works on ) on the outside skins are you?

Typically any panel seam that goes on top is drilled with both panels , old on top of new, lying flat on a big piece of plywood. Put your Clecos in thru the old and the new metal right into the wood ( it will hold the panel in place.) Start in the center and drill out to the edges.

If the panel goes underneath on the seam , once you slip the panel in place all the holes will be there in the top panel, so you can just drill thru. No marking of the holes is needed. Does this make sense?
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:35 AM   #17
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1959 18' "Footer"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reinergirl View Post
Two things, I had great luck using Citrastrip on that black goop, coat it , cover with plastic, leave overnights and wipe off the next day.

Maybe I'm reading this wrong but you're not planning on using pop rivets ( the kind the ace gun works on ) on the outside skins are you?

Typically any panel seam that goes on top is drilled with both panels , old on top of new, lying flat on a big piece of plywood. Put your Clecos in thru the old and the new metal right into the wood ( it will hold the panel in place.) Start in the center and drill out to the edges.

If the panel goes underneath on the seam , once you slip the panel in place all the holes will be there in the top panel, so you can just drill thru. No marking of the holes is needed. Does this make sense?
No pop rivets on the shell, have buck rivets.

I guess what you're saying is if it is the overlapping panel you'd remove it and use as a template for holes.
If it is underlying panel you'd use existing overlapping panel still in place to drill through.

when using Trempro on panel seams do you do that once panel is in place or before you slip it in place. Also rivets individually? It seems like it would be quite a mess handling each rivet to goop up and then grab your pneumatic gun with goopy hands.
Getting close to that point now so I'm sure I'll figure out a system.

Got interior endcaps out and scrubbed down insulation that was attached to undercoat on panels. Vacumed it up and blew it out real good. I love getting all the old crap outta there. I am excited about being immersed in new materials.
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Old 02-12-2016, 09:48 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV View Post
Consider .040 thick material, specially for the big flat panels. It won't get all wavy as easily and it's almost impossible to tell any difference in the final look.
I pre drill from the old panel but use 3/32 holes and lots of clecos to fit it all. A final 1/8 or 5/32 hole ( depending on your rivet selection) gives you a little wiggle room for final alignment.
I did order two more sheets Vernon of .040 for the side panels.
I had it shipped flat as I was afraid it might not lay flat or kink. That cost me about $100 extra as opposed to being rolled.

So Vern do you run the Trempro before you slip the panel in? Or do you put in a few clecos and then run it?
Also each rivet gets the goop?
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Old 02-12-2016, 05:21 PM   #19
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I layed the new sheet face down on waxed paper/ plywood then the old panel face down on top of it. Marked the shape and cut to size. Then I drilled all of the holes to 3/32 (I have a ton of 3/32 clecos) so when the final drill to size (5/32) it left me a small amount of wiggle room incase my initial drill was off.
The panel was the fit and drilled to 5/32, removed and cleaned all of the shavings. All of the seams were caulked with trempro and the panel went in with 5/32 clecos. Each rivet got a dab of caulk and like Shelly said, start in the middle and work outward watching for puckers.

Keep a coffee can of mineral spirits handy to dump the gooped up clecos into and a whole roll of paper towels to remove the unholy mess that results. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-12-2016, 10:49 PM   #20
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Like Vern said �� drill, remove, deburr, apply Trempro, Cleco and rivet. I also would apply a dab of Tempro on the back of each rivet when the panel was complete....striving for that leak proof��trailer!! Oh and buy shares in mineral spirits ��. If you aren't creating a mess you aren't using enough Tempro lol!

Kudos for thinking this through beforehand, you're doing great!!
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Old 02-13-2016, 01:41 AM   #21
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Thanks for the advice all..much appreciated.

Got the front window out and corner panel fitted. Man once you remove that window ther is like one rivet holding thin framing together on that side. I need toget that corner panel bucked down to stiffen up window area opening. Then I need toreplace the one above it as it has some buckles in that won't smooth out.
It's tough wrestling those corners by yourself. It's gonna be many more to come. I'll have to take the door off when I do the curbside side panel. I have uppers , lowers, both sides so I need more clecos unless I stick to one at a time.

Got my weather strip from VTS today. All windows need to come out.
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Old 02-13-2016, 05:59 PM   #22
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That looks awesome!
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:08 PM   #23
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well today I got more clecos and removed all Hehr windows and am in process of putting temp holders in openings. Also decided to take them apart and replace with tempered tinted glass. I have new gaskets from VTS and will polih pieces whilst apart.

Also took out second panel next to front window and goes back to door.
I went to flatten it out to cut a new piece...Oh No! It appears it was made on English wheel as it has two contours, vertical and horizontal. Its hard to imagine they did that in production. Could it be it was flat and after 56 years took on these contours?
OMG the plot thickens.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:51 PM   #24
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Yup. Those are drawn segments. Only the 13 panel trailers are flat.
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:36 AM   #25
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Yup. Those are drawn segments. Only the 13 panel trailers are flat.
so what is the approach? I'm pretty sure they would have to be handmade right?
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Old 02-26-2016, 07:46 AM   #26
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You might look for another trailer as a donor. One that is beyond restoration.
End caps of a given year are usually the same no matter the length. Sometimes the same from year to year.
I don't know what others would be the same as yours, but someone will know. Perhaps someone at Jackson Center could help. Some of those folks have been with Airstream a very long time.


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Old 02-26-2016, 07:58 AM   #27
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Another thought......
Contact Luke Bernander in Denver. Luke works on vintage Airstreams. He may be of help.


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Old 02-26-2016, 08:31 AM   #28
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so what is the approach? I'm pretty sure they would have to be handmade right?
Depending on how badly damaged it is, it might be fixed (or at least improved) by someone experienced in the use of an English wheel. Colin Hyde has commented on The Vap that he does this. I think this was in Episode 198.

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