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Old 07-18-2007, 07:21 PM   #1
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1950's & 1960's Original Style Solid Rivets Anyone?

I have been looking several weeks now for original looking solid rivets to re-attach the shell of my 61 Overlander following my shell off floor replacement. I understand from the great info here on the forums that I am looking for the AN456 style 5/32 modified brazier head rivet. Does anyone know where I can find these? They seem to be a part that is now obsolete, but NOS batches can still be found occasionally. Any help or advice would be appreciated. I think I'm going to need about 1-2 pounds worth.
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:07 PM   #2
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Have you contacted Airstream Parts Department or an Airstream dealer?
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:20 PM   #3
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you can buy them here;

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

but you'll also need a rivet shaver tool to grind the head to look like originals. some people will use a dremel/grinder if they only have a few to do. if you have a lot, you'll the need the shaver;

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!
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Old 07-18-2007, 08:41 PM   #4
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If at all possible I would not use olympics - they are expensive and do not have near the strength of buck rivets.

61 - all my rivets came from Aircraft Spruce Co in Ca. I'm not sure of the number you mention, but I believe they were 5/32 - used an air gun to set. I believe that is what most of us have used

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Old 07-18-2007, 08:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
If at all possible I would not use olympics - they are expensive and do not have near the strength of buck rivets.

61 - all my rivets came from Aircraft Spruce Co in Ca. I'm not sure of the number you mention, but I believe they were 5/32 - used an air gun to set. I believe that is what most of us have used

Ken J.
ken, i thought the only way to get the look of the original rivets was to buy olympic and use the rivet shaver tool. i could swear i've read that in many places on the forum. will the buck rivets look like the originals?
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Old 07-18-2007, 09:33 PM   #6
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If you want to be really correct, the modified Brazier head rivets are the way to go. They are still available, try Byler Rivet.

I used Universal Head rivets. From ATS. It's hard to tell the difference; the Universal head is a little taller and has a more rounded over edge. Head diameter of the 5/32 Universal is the same as the original Brazier head. Only a real pro would notice.

Another thing to consider is that most rivet setting tools will be profiled for Universal head rivets. If you get Modified Brazier head rivets you may want to relieve the edge of the rivet set to make it match the Brazier head profile.

The Olympic rivets after shaving have a head profile that is just like the Universal head. If you are a toolmaker you could probably grind the head shaver to make it more like a Brazier head, but i've not tried that and you could get into trouble.
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Old 07-18-2007, 11:15 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone. I do have the whole trailer apart and definely want to use solid or bucked rivets instead of Olympics. I had a 61 Globetrotter parts trailer I took apart that had extensive use of Olympics and they did not look like they had held up very well. Some had very little clamping load left, as the stem had started to pull out. That said, I'm sure they have their place for minor repairs, but not for structural repairs in my opinion.

Markdoane - Great observation regarding the tooling for driving the rivet. The major concern I have with Universal rivets is that the ones I've seen have a number stamped on the top. Did the ones you used have a number stamped into the top or were they smooth?
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Old 07-19-2007, 12:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1961 Cruiser
Thanks everyone. I do have the whole trailer apart and definely want to use solid or bucked rivets instead of Olympics. I had a 61 Globetrotter parts trailer I took apart that had extensive use of Olympics and they did not look like they had held up very well. Some had very little clamping load left, as the stem had started to pull out. That said, I'm sure they have their place for minor repairs, but not for structural repairs in my opinion.

Markdoane - Great observation regarding the tooling for driving the rivet. The major concern I have with Universal rivets is that the ones I've seen have a number stamped on the top. Did the ones you used have a number stamped into the top or were they smooth?
We have various sizes of smooth head buck rivets in stock, that we also use in our service department.

Andy
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Old 07-19-2007, 07:58 AM   #9
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As stated above the original rivets were a brazier head rivet but they were a 1/8" rivet not a 5/32. The difference between the 1/8" braizer and the 5/32" universal head is so slight that even myself, that does aircraft metal work professionally, have trouble telling the difference. the correct part numbers for the 5/32 universal head solid shank rivets is as follows

MS20470AD5-X Dimple on head 2117-T4 Aluminum
Ms20470A5-X Smooth head 1100 Aluminum (very soft)

X is the lenght in 1/16th's

Kip
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Old 07-19-2007, 08:41 AM   #10
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Urban

As mentioned above, olympics are great for repairs, very expensive (relative) and are not as strong - so if there is anyway to access the inside, I would use buck rivets. Olympics are great if you can't get to the inside.

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Old 07-19-2007, 09:07 AM   #11
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Did the ones you used have a number stamped into the top or were they smooth?
Cruiser,

I didn't notice anything embossed in the rivet heads until I finished. The great thing about age is you stop seeing the little things. The symbol looks like a legless R.

I bought some smooth headed rivets (un-hardened) for some cosmetic work. They are very soft. You can set them with a pencil eraser . Definitely stick with the dimple headed rivets.

Here's a picture of the symbol. Its at about 7 o'clock. It might show up better if I ever polish the Tradewind.
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Old 07-19-2007, 11:16 AM   #12
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I get all of my rivets from here, Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co. , If ordered by the MS (Military Standard) number there should be nothing but the dimple on the head for a MS20470AD rivet and smooth for a MS20470A.
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Old 07-19-2007, 03:55 PM   #13
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Great, this really helps. The contour difference of the Universal vs. the Mod Brazier didn't bother me nearly as much as the number that I saw stamped in the heads! I think the Universal rivet should work out if I get them with only the dimple and no darn number. Thanks everyone for the info! The Forums comes through again! - Eric
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Old 07-19-2007, 05:22 PM   #14
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I get all of my rivets from here, Genuine Aircraft Hardware Co. .
Great source for rivets. I like the prices. The standard size are about 2 cents each. Thanks!
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