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Old 02-05-2010, 03:19 PM   #21
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1962 26' Overlander
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You know the nice thing about working in aluminum and rivets is you can just drill the rivets and make a new panel.
I would suggest drilling and clecoing with 1/8" first. The drilling the #20 and putting in the rivet. If it is clecoed off it should not move.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:52 AM   #22
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I put the flange on while the panels flat. The puckers did not show up until the rivets. Just bending it and dry fitting with the clecos did not cause the puckers. I guess there is enough play with clecos. Maybe if I did try to hold the panel in a bend as I applied the flange, then it would not have puckered.

I pre-drilled and clecoed the panels in place first. I think I also put a rivet in every other or three holes and then back filled. I think this was my mistake. When dry fit it looked good, but the rivets bind it into place and even the slightest "extra" has to go somewhere (pucker). You just do not have this happen on flat panels.

I would drill and rivet as I go from one end to the other and not pre-drill if I had to do it again. As you rivet the panels, if you predrill the holes, they will shift as you rivet and not line up. I am not sure this will solve everything either. At the time I had all the panels cut and clecoed in place. I did not have any spare aluminum to redo the segemnts after they puckered. Nor the will to redo them.

If you experiment I would think you need to use the same alloy and thickness as the final product as alloys behave differently. Also, you need to work with a like size and cut panel. What may work on a smaller or less curved cut may not be indicitive of what may happen.

All you are doing is reminding me how long it has been since then and how NOT so far I have progressed. But good luck.
Did you try starting at the center of the panels and work outboard to both ends, clecoing each hole as you go. I know you most likely don't want to here this but using the wing nut style clecos will draw the sheets together much tighter then the spring type, pulling the sheets together against the lip.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:42 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Did you try starting at the center of the panels and work outboard to both ends, clecoing each hole as you go. I know you most likely don't want to here this but using the wing nut style clecos will draw the sheets together much tighter then the spring type, pulling the sheets together against the lip.
Well, all I can say is, that water has done gone under the bridge, down to the gulf, evaporated and rained somewhere else.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:58 AM   #24
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look ahead...

I see another project in your future....it happens to us all. Now your experienced.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:43 AM   #25
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this thread has sparked my curiosity a great deal. I have seen this slight bend to the leading edge of the panel as some here were talking about, however, I have also seen a bead too.
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That is from an Ohio built 54 Safari. It is not a bend, it is a bead. Does anyone have a Cali built 54ish to compare?
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:11 AM   #26
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I will be working on an Ohio built 57 Overlander soon. I dont have the trailer here yet but I do belive its segments also have a bead. Its a nice detail that would be a shame to not duplicate. How would a guy make this bead?
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:19 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by 62overlander View Post
this thread has sparked my curiosity a great deal. I have seen this slight bend to the leading edge of the panel as some here were talking about, however, I have also seen a bead too.
Attachment 95780
That is from an Ohio built 54 Safari. It is not a bend, it is a bead. Does anyone have a Cali built 54ish to compare?
On my 1950 FC each segment has both a bead on the top edge and a flange on the bottom. Since the top edge is not visable, I did not worry about the bead. THey may have changed their ways with later models.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:37 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by FC7039 View Post
On my 1950 FC each segment has both a bead on the top edge and a flange on the bottom. Since the top edge is not visable, I did not worry about the bead. THey may have changed their ways with later models.
How do you form this bead? I will be replacing a few segments and would like to reproduce this detail
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:35 AM   #29
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How do you form this bead? I will be replacing a few segments and would like to reproduce this detail
I don't know. I suppose a tool such as the one Don (NorCal) bought or Aero mentioned a while back would have the die to pinch the bead. But that is just a guess. On mine, the flange on the lower edge was just a bend.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:54 AM   #30
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I've bought a vice mounted roller form Harbor Freight for under $200. I've been practicing with this machine and I think it will do a great job.
Don
Don,

Can you give a report on this tool? I too amy wanting one.

Thanks,

Gene
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Old 02-24-2010, 01:10 PM   #31
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I'll take some pictures today and show some photo samples.
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Don,

Can you give a report on this tool? I too amy wanting one.

Thanks,

Gene
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Old 02-24-2010, 06:37 PM   #32
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Here is the machine for bead work.
Harbor Freight, currently on sale for $119.00
18'' Sheet Metal Fabrication Kit
Similar Tools Sell for Over $500!
  • Cut, form, roll beads, and make perfect flanges with one benchtop tool
  • Saves money and shop space
  • Sheet metal capacity: 18 gauge
  • Throat depth: 18-1/4"
  • Cast iron base for stability
  • Perfect for auto body workers: make your own wheel tubs, battery trays, dashboards, fire walls, floor pans, and other sheet metal parts and accessories

Vise sold separately. Order the adjustable guide fence to make precision cuts and flanges.
Comes with 1/4'', 3/8'', and 1/2'' bead mandrels; 1/16'', 1/8'', and 1/4'' flange mandrels; and one 18-1/4'' shearing mandrel.
Shipping weight: 60 lbs.


ITEM 34104-0VGA

$169.99
$119.99 Email link to a friend

Prices on our website may or may not be current prices in our stores
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Old 06-14-2010, 06:31 PM   #33
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For those that may be wondering where the recent posts to this thread went, I requested to have them moved to this thread about my trailer: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f338...tml#post860080

I requested this move because those posts quickly morphed into a discussion of my '55 Safari rather than a discussion pertinent to the 1950 Flying Cloud discussed in this thread. Sorry of this produced any confusion.
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