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Old 09-15-2008, 05:06 PM   #1
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working with contact cement

I attempted to do a tambour door repair, a-la "silvertwinkie.com" (Repairing tambour doors), and ran into a little trouble.

I used some fabric that is like the "duck cloth" mentioned, but a little bit lighter. It really seemed to soak up the contact cement...right through. ok...well, then I applied it to the back of the tambour slats, which appear to be just cardboard, or similar. the first door I did seemed to work ok...I haven't actually checked it yet, but on the other, it seems that the slats just absorbed all the cement. I let them set up for the indicated time (~20 min), and it seemed to be "gone". so i applied another thin layer, let it sit just a few minutes, and put the pieces together. After sitting overnight under some weight (a stack of plywood shelves), I checked it thismorning, and the handle piece just came right off. . I didn't have time to mess with it much, but I'm not optimistic that the rest of it is thoroughly stuck together.
having never worked with contact cement before...I know alot of you have done laminate countertops, and such....I thought maybe you might have some tips. how much is too much? how tacky is "tacky"? is it too humid in my basement? maybe some other glue would work better...I know the guy that made that nice photo essay said that "spray glue" didnt' work. but there's "spray glue", and then there's "spary glue", kwim? that 3m stuff is supposed to be pretty dern sticky, from what I'm told.
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Old 09-15-2008, 05:20 PM   #2
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You can get Pray adhesives that will work great... Don't get the general purpose stuff
Get the 3M Hi-strength 90

I have worked installing cabinets in houses this stuff will stick down countertops and the veneer on the sides of the cabinets.. I have also put pool table felt down with it... It won't soak in like rubber cement does and will hold as well or better...

It's has been used by most cabinet installers for year and works great....
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Old 09-15-2008, 06:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
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Get the 3M Hi-strength 90

....
When you use this do you have anytime to move the veneers around or is the type of adhesive that locks instantly?
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:06 PM   #4
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Here's the stuff we use for this sort of thing 3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray Adhesive



It only needs to dry for about a minute, then you put the two pieces together, but once you do, that's it. No moving them. The best way is to use a "slip sheet" or dowels to help get the two things lined up properly...

There's also Super 77, also by 3M...it works about the same, but isn't quite as strong sticky-wise.

Only other bit of advice is "Beware of OVERSPRAY" it gets on everything and is a PITA to get off. Use Bestine (Xylene) for clean-up.

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Old 09-15-2008, 07:56 PM   #5
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What I'm trying to do is put a veneer in the metal coves around the sink and above the windows, but it needs to be adjusted I can't just drp it in.

I need 2-5 minutes
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Old 09-15-2008, 08:38 PM   #6
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I'll have to think about that one Bob.. Yeah the 3m once it touches it is glued hard...
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Old 09-16-2008, 08:23 AM   #7
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I thought thats the way the brush-on contact cement was supposed to be: "instant bond". well, in this case...it ain't. I checked the doors thismorning...after 36 hours, I can still peel the fabric off the slats.

do you suppose they carry the super-90 at HD or Lowe's?

actually...now that I think of it, there might actually be something like this around the office. Shari, do you think they might use this stuff for mounting boards? (archictectural firm...)
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Old 09-16-2008, 08:28 AM   #8
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They should, that's where i have gotten it...
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Old 09-16-2008, 08:40 AM   #9
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I know exactly what you are talking about with the tambours. Here's what has worked for me through trial and error on about a dozen doors. First use aluminum tape strips about 6" apart crossways to the direction of the tambour. After letting the contact cement set overnight use at least a 2nd and maybe a 3rd coat letting them set in between. Let the whole thing cure for a couple of days before you mess with it. PS, I use nylon packcloth not duck.
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Old 09-16-2008, 08:46 AM   #10
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I think the spay will work first time... Like i said I glued pool table felt to the slate with the stuff.. You only have to wait about 1-3 min for it to dry... It doesn't soak in like rubber cement.. Watch for over spray.. it does come of with most solvents....

Also I wouldn't use just plain rubber cement.. If thats what you want to do go to lowes or a hardware store and get the stuff for putting down counter tops with... It will bond a lot better than rubber cement.. thats made for school kids....

GET THE TOOL MAN TAYLOR STUFF....
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Old 09-16-2008, 08:51 AM   #11
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I used contact cement. not "rubber cement". it supposedly IS the stuff for gluing down countertops.
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:20 AM   #12
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Chuck- I think contact cement doesn't work so well on real porous materials, it soaks in too much and doesn't get very sticky- as you've noticed. I too would give the spray stuff a try- I've used something called "Stick-it", from (really!) Blowoff.com to glue a piece of soft fabric to the bottom of an ottoman, and it worked well. As posted, the over-spray has to be managed- this is really sticky, messy stuff but it works on just about every material imaginable. Good luck- tim
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Old 09-16-2008, 09:39 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
do you suppose they carry the super-90 at HD or Lowe's?

actually...now that I think of it, there might actually be something like this around the office. Shari, do you think they might use this stuff for mounting boards? (architectural firm...)
Yup and yup. We usually use the Super 77 for presentation boards at the office, but have the Hi Strength 90 at home for more heavy-duty uses. I've seen it at hardware stores & art supply stores all over town.

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Old 09-16-2008, 09:44 AM   #14
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time to raid the model shop....

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