I am trying to spec the wood out for my dinette table and seats.
I plan on using 3/4" material for the table top doubling up on the eding so I have something to work with. I want to put metal edging on it if I can find some. I plan on laminating is so the material does not have to be of finish quality.
A half sheet of 3/4" plywood is around $25 and a full sheet of OSB was arond $12 or $16 (can't remember).
What kind should I be using? I want more bang for my buck but not at the risk of ending up with something of poor quality.
Weight might also be a consideration. Are you trying to match the original laminate?
I will be interested in the upcoming posts. I will try to repair the table ledge this spring. I will try gorilla glue first, then replace if need be. Our previous owners left a veneer sample in the trailer. I don't know if it is still made, but I have a maker, color, and number to search on.
__________________ Mark
72 Sovereign: L couch, mid-twin, rear-bath
"When you come to a fork in the road, take it"
"It was impossible to get a conversation going; everybody was talking too much."
"If you don't know where you are going, you will wind up somewhere else." - Yogi Berra
Plywood is much stronger than OSB size for size. And certainly much lighter. For a table top, you have more finishing options with finish grade plywood.
3/4" plywood is not actually necessary. With some minimal framing you can use 1/2" for the dinette seats, or 3/8" with a bit more. My "double" bed has a 3/8" plywood platform.
earlier post mentioned MDF. This is very heavy! Veneer core sheeting is much stronger than particle board. Plywood sometimes has a warp in it so I would be careful to make sure the piece you use is flat from the start. A table top isn't really fastened to anything that will restrain it from warping. If you apply a plastic laminate to the top surface of the table top it is probably a good idea to do the same on the bottom to prevent a warp.
If I were making one for my unit it would be red oak ply with red oak solid for the edges, because my trailer is all oak inside. My table is oak trim with a laminate oak top. It doesn't look bad but its not as pretty as the newer tables that are not laminate. The birch plywood is very reasonable in price and the grain is so much tighter. It makes a nice table top as well. Wood has all of the upkeep problems but looks great, laminate looks good and has fewer upkeep issues.
__________________
Keep the shiny side up. WBCCI # 3485 Region 3 1stVP
Past President Tidewater Unit 111
visit tidewater Virginia's web page @ www.tidewaterwbcci.com
Rick Bell in "Silverbell"
There's a big difference between various plywoods. I've seen 9-ply Baltic Birch warp big time and it is supposed to be amoung the best for strength and stability. If it were me, I would try to use lumber core plywood. Lumber core plywood is often used for library shelving so it should be good for table tops assuming you are going to band the edge. Lumber core plywood should be available at your local specialty woods supplier.
I'm in the market for a dinette too but haven't really gotten into construction details yet. First here's a very handy link for table edging. Outwater Plastics will send you a HUGE free catalog. Check out "extrusions" section for edging.
Of course your table top needs to be very strong because it supports the middle of what is potentially a 2 person bed not to mention any gymnastics the kids may perform on it. I think that 3/4" birch plywood with doubled edges and probably an 3-4" wide rib running down the middle would be best. You already said that you prefere lamainate, and I do too for it's durability. If you don't laminate the underside at least seal it with varnish or polyurethane. That keeps the humidity from affecting just one side and causing the top to warp.
If your bench seats are going to be painted or stained 1/2" birch ply will give you a nice surface to finish and it will match your cabinets, but if you're going to fabric cover them (like I'm thinking) a lesser grade of plywood will do. I bet the total weight saving of using 1/2" instead of 3/4" plywood throughout would be less that 30 lbs but that weight is as far towards the tongue as possible thus multiplying it's ill affect. You could actually use 1/4" ply on the sides if all the strength is in your framing.
BTW, do you have a water tank under the front bed? What are you doing about that?
I'll be interested in your progress. Please keep us posted.
Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
I am trying to spec the wood out for my dinette table and seats.
I plan on using 3/4" material for the table top doubling up on the eding so I have something to work with. I want to put metal edging on it if I can find some. I plan on laminating is so the material does not have to be of finish quality.
A half sheet of 3/4" plywood is around $25 and a full sheet of OSB was arond $12 or $16 (can't remember).
What kind should I be using? I want more bang for my buck but not at the risk of ending up with something of poor quality.
__________________
Have you never questioned those who travel?
Have you paid no regard to their accounts- Job 21:29
I used 3/4" for the table top with a 13/16" extruded aluminum t-moulding from Outwater Plastics, no doubling up on the edge or extra supports. On ours, the tabletop is small (30"w X 36"l) and is supported along both 36" lengths by the bench seat and a table leg in the middle of the front edge - 6-9" or so. And in the table position along the wall just below the window.
The dinette benches are made with 1/4" verticals and 3/8" seating platforms. If I were to do it over again, I would use 1/4" on the seats too, as there is plenty of support from the framework below....the maximum span is only about 18".
I have posted lots of pictures in my gallery and on our website to show what I did. Even though ours has 'vintage styling' the pictures may help ~
Good luck with your project!
Shari
__________________
Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008
WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005)
AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
Personally I like new tasks that require me to self teach a skill and buy new tools but if you're not set up to router I'm sure that a local cabinet shop wouldn't charge too much just to stick on and trim one piece of Formica, especially if you've prepared it before hand. That's a good option also if you can't work outside this time of the year.
If you have a router the only other thing you need is a "flush trim bit" to trim the laminate to size once it's stuck to the table top. If you're only doing the top and not the edges it should be a breeze to learn the process on this project. I'd be glad to talk you through it but you've probably seen Norm and Bob Villa do it dozens of times.
Steve
__________________
Have you never questioned those who travel?
Have you paid no regard to their accounts- Job 21:29
Quick Links
Linear Mode
