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Old 01-27-2005, 02:41 PM   #43
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Wow!

I called to order my aluminum T-Modling from Outwater. They want $220 to ship three 12' peices by common carrier. Or I could pay $5 a cut so ups would ship it (eight foot lengths) which would be about $45 shipping!

The 36' of moulding was only $30. Argh!! nothing is easy or cheap...

I wonder if lowes or home depot can get this stuff....
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:08 PM   #44
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Quote:
I called to order my aluminum T-Modling from Outwater. They want $220 to ship three 12' peices by common carrier. Or I could pay $5 a cut so ups would ship it (eight foot lengths) which would be about $45 shipping!

The 36' of moulding was only $30. Argh!!
I had them cut the 12' lengths to 8' & 4' and ship them via UPS. It worked out fine...I used the 8' sections where there were long runs and the 4' where shorter peices were needed. With a little planning, there was very little waste. You could ask them to cut one strip 8/4 and another 6/6 if that works better for your configuration, but I found this a better option than cutting them all cut to 6' lengths. I think I ordered (3) 12' lengths and it came to about $75, so that sounds about right.

Unfortunately, Lowes and Home Depot around here don't carry this stuff and they can't (won't?) order small quantities.

Shari
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Old 01-27-2005, 03:26 PM   #45
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Thanks Shari. Sounds like that's the price of admission!

What finished did you go with, satin, polished, or milled?

I went and ordered the polsihed tee-molding. I had them cut at 8'.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-27-2005, 05:05 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
What finished did you go with, satin, polished, or milled?
I used:



It's a polished finish.

Gaucho vs Dinette

Shari
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:04 AM   #47
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Shari -
That's the same stuff I used and have been really happy with it. It's really durable and requires little to no glue to adhere to the countertop or table. It just needs the 'T' cut off when going around a corner.

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Old 01-28-2005, 03:46 PM   #48
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Upholstery

See if your local high school or community college has a short course in upholstering. What is needed for an airstream isn't that tough, and anyone who sews can learn the basics in 3 or 4 days. Your local sewing center may have several good books or CD's that can help you "get'er dun".

You may decide to pay someone else to do this work, and most people charge a pretty reasonable rate for it, but it is labor intensive so you can probably save 40% if you buy your own materials and make it yourself. Depends on your balance of time, money, fear and interest. Good durable upholstery fabric IS expensive, and GOOD grade foam cushion material is also not cheap, but don't try to save money on those things if you are planning to keep your A/S. Use cheap stuff and you'll be redoing the work a lot sooner than you would with quality materials.

If you can do the carpentry, upholstery isn't beyond your learning level.

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Old 01-29-2005, 03:14 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
I used:



It's a polished finish.

Gaucho vs Dinette

Shari
Shari,

Can you check a measurement for me? I need to know the thickness of the edge t-molding.

I cut the table 1/2" narrow of the opening between benches to make up for the thickness of the t-molding. I am hoping they are less than 1/4" or I'll have some trimming to do.

Hopefully they are 1/8" but the measurement is not shown.

Thanks!
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Old 01-29-2005, 05:57 PM   #50
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Dinette Seatback Cushions

Tim,

Not being familiar with CCDs or other sophisticated things, here's what I did in my Overlander.

I had all the cushions cut 3-1/2" thick so we can wrap them in some batting or something and have the overstuffed look. (Be sure to choose a density that gives you the comfort you want. The foam I had cut for the bunkbeds was rather stiff.) It cost me $133 for all of the foam (including two pieces that cover the table for the bed).

The seat backs are 12" tall (sitting on 16" tall bench) which come right up to the bottom window (and curtain rail). The seat cushions hold the seat backs in place against the bulkhead. I suppose you could use snaps or velcro if you wanted also.

The upholstery in the picture is a blue denim that is just pinned in place (no batting). My wife will sew covers with piping (to match curtains) later this spring (after the baby is born).
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Old 01-29-2005, 08:29 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Shari,

Can you check a measurement for me? I need to know the thickness of the edge t-molding.

I cut the table 1/2" narrow of the opening between benches to make up for the thickness of the t-molding. I am hoping they are less than 1/4" or I'll have some trimming to do.

Hopefully they are 1/8" but the measurement is not shown.

Thanks!
The thick part of the ripple is about 1/8", slightly less...so you ought to be fine.

Shari
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Old 01-29-2005, 08:40 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
The thick part of the ripple is about 1/8", slightly less...so you ought to be fine.

Shari
Great. Thanks for checking it.
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Old 01-29-2005, 08:57 PM   #53
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Thanks for the info Ron.

I plan on reusing the foam from my couch to make the seat. It's about 4-5" thick.

For the back I have some new foam that is about 2" thick. I am thinking I will have to double up on that when in the bed position. The backs will have to be about 16" since the table is near 32" wide.

I got lucky with the new foam. Our church just reupholsted all the pews and have a couple of large rolls of 2" x about 18" or so wide. So I get to use it.

Its good quality stuff so that should work out fine.

I got the table cut and figured out a mounting system. Next in the plan is to cut the foam and get the material to the upholstry place to get them started.

Then I need to cut the laminate and get it glued on. My tee-molding is on its way so I want to be ready for that.

Lots of details....

Here are the latest photos. The table leg is from the original fold out table and I will be making a new one. Just stuck on there to help make some checks.

Also the left front side of the table will have to be angled back to make it easier to get in and out. I wanted to finished the mounting before I made this adjustment.
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Old 01-29-2005, 09:37 PM   #54
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Great progress Tim! I was out taking measurements tonight and am almost ready to get something on paper for my dinette project. I've decided to remove the side gaucho, closet and the overhead compartment to make a 12' sofa that ends as the dinette at the front. Then I'll build a bunk bed over it towards the rear. I'd like to use the overhead's doors under the new sofa. and make a third door using the closet door and that will complete the face of the under sofa storage for the full 12'.

It's great to see that you have such a nice big table top and I'm sure that it will be the huge improvement that you are hoping for. If it was me I'd have the kids out there for lunch just to soak in the progress

-Quick couple of questions about dimensions: What is the distance from the bottom of the wall to the front of the bench seat(back to front) and what is the height of your seat minus 4" of foam? And BTW, how are you attaching the table to the wall?

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 01-30-2005, 12:44 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfixx
Great progress Tim! I was out taking measurements tonight and am almost ready to get something on paper for my dinette project. I've decided to remove the side gaucho, closet and the overhead compartment to make a 12' sofa that ends as the dinette at the front. Then I'll build a bunk bed over it towards the rear. I'd like to use the overhead's doors under the new sofa. and make a third door using the closet door and that will complete the face of the under sofa storage for the full 12'.
That sounds quite extensive. Your almost gutting the whole thing less the kitchen. Sounds like it will be a nice unique layout when finished. I like the idea of reusing the materials where you can. The will help keep it original. My cabinets are all the tambour stuff. If I ever messed with those they'd just be replaced. Make sure to post your progress.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfixx
-Quick couple of questions about dimensions: What is the distance from the bottom of the wall to the front of the bench seat(back to front) and what is the height of your seat minus 4" of foam? And BTW, how are you attaching the table to the wall?
I think the first dimension your asking for is the bench width. Its about 41" I needed to keep it as wide as possible because my wife and 3 year old share this bed. When in bed mode it will be around 77" x 41". I just used up the whole space that butted up against the kitchen cabinet. Unfortuantly that's where the furnace output is on my coach so I have to figure out how to deal with that and make it come out the front of the bench seat.

The bench height is 13.5". Plus the 4" foam will bring it up to around 18"

My mounting is a little unique because of my wall/shelf unit. I actually needed the table top to be a little higher than that shelf. So, I mounted a 2"x2" the width of the table to the upper most part of that wall. I have not finished it yet but that plan is to add a similar 2"x2" to the bottom edge of the table top that meets the wall. On the table portion I will install a couple of 1/2" or so diameter dowels and drill corresponding holes in the section fixed to the wall. This will put the tabletop height actually above the wall/shelf and still allow me to open it ( I made the shelf a storage area underneath). Bottom of the table will sit at around 27.5" from the floor.

So far the plan is coming together...
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Old 02-06-2005, 12:47 AM   #56
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Update...

Sorry no pics...


I had a day off work yesterday so I got some more done on my project.

I have a guy setup to do the triming of the laminate since I don't have a router. He is a finish carpenter and will charge about $50 to trim all the peices and route the slot for the tee-molding which should be here any day now.

Since this carpenter is going to trim the laminate I decided to use the remainder of my 4x8 sheet of ply and cut out a new kitchen counter top, flip up extension, and tv shelf.

I was able to use my jig saw to rough cut the laminate for all of these as well as the dinette table I had already made.

I glued the laminate on all pieces, and used a walnut stain on the back sides of the tv shelf, extension, and dinette. I also stained the bench seating in the trailer as well.

That was a busy day.

Today, I only had a couple of hours, so I polyurathaned, everything. Including the backside of the new counter tops which I had not stained. If you read my other thread about whether to stain dark to match the 70's fake wood interior, or stain light for preference.... I'm having second thoughts about the dark (walnut) stain as some of you suggested might happen ;-(

The bottom of the counters with polyurathane only look so nice.... oh well...

So, it's getting closer. A couple of more passes with the polyurethane and were all set.

Next project is to lay my pergo style flooring I picked up from sams club.

Oh, yeah, I almost forgot. I got the upholstry done in the nick of time.

I called the person I used when I had the couches redone a couple of years ago. I wanted her to use the same material from my couch and cover my dinette cushions. Turns out they stopped their buisness the previous week and were moving up-state next week as their home is already sold!

When I asked if she rememebered my Airstream and we talked a little more, I convinced her to do one last job for old times sake ;-) So in two days I had my new dinette cushions done very nicely for $120.... just in time...

The cushions turned our really nice and work in the bed position quite well. I am very satisfied this is going to work out nicely.
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