What wood would you use?

[Safari Tim]

Originally Posted by Tarheel

Tim I bought the Cherry laminate from Sam's and have got the flooring installed and putting in the 1/4 round shoe molding now. Will take some pics when I get enough stuff out of the way so that you can see it. It went down reasonably easy, I did learn a few tricks after the fact.

Oooh.... I'd love to see some pictures. That is my next project coming up real soon. Any tricks you can let me know about would be great too.

As with most things on my trailer I have never done it before so it's going to be a learning experience.

[Safari Tim]

Got my second coat of polyurathane on today...

Here are some pictures.

The first one shows the laminate I used on the left, and the bottom of the dinette table on the right.

The second picture shows the stained bench seats.... all too dark...

There is a peice of the pacific maple flooring laid next to it for comparison.

[Safari Tim]

Here is a picture of the bottom of the new kitchen counter I am making. I did not stain it, just polyurathaned it.

Looks nice.... but won't be seen ;-(

[Safari Tim]

I'm getting ready to install the metal tee-molding.

I need a little help on getting it to turn the corners.

I made all the corners somewhat rounded, but the tee is solid on the molding so it looks like it would have to be notched somehow.

I was thinking of using some tin snips and cut a 'V' shape in the tee part that leads in and out of a turn. Does that sound like the right technique?

Just want to get an idea before I start cutting stuff up.

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I made all the corners somewhat rounded, but the tee is solid on the molding so it looks like it would have to be notched somehow.

I cut out the 'T' to round the corners. It depends on the diameter of your curve, but the section I cut out from the back of mine was about 6".

Shari

[flyfshr]

Tim -
I did the same as Shari. I cut it out with an angle grinder. Haven't had a problem with it as long as you keep both edges where the T moulding is tight in the groove. Good luck.

FF

[Safari Tim]

So what you two are saying is you completely removed the tee from the entire radius of the curve?

[InsideOut]

Yep. I used a small handheld coping saw (I have it for jewelry making) the aluminum is real soft & easy to cut. It then bends pretty easily around the curve...no problem. MUCH easier than cutting a bunch of litte 'V's....

Shari

[flyfshr]

Yep - removed about an eight inch section with hand held angle grinder. Piece of cake.

FF

[sfixx]

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

So what you two are saying is you completely removed the tee from the entire radius of the curve?

Tim, It might make a little sense and worth a try to leave a small tab at the very center of the corner for extra support anyway.

Steve

[InsideOut]

Originally Posted by sfixx

Tim, It might make a little sense and worth a try to leave a small tab at the very center of the corner for extra support anyway.

Steve

If the tab left is too big it will telegraph through the face of the moulding and be seen as a bump in the radiused curve. I wouldn't do it...it's not necessary IMHO.

Shari

[Safari Tim]

A buddy of mine has a friend who is a finish carpenter. I paid him to route, cut and install my tee-molding.

Turns out he never worked with metal tee-molding and used a jig saw to cut the tab out to round the corners.

This beat the aluminum molding up badly, very scratched and even sharp in places. Some of the molding got bent backwards and left perminate wavy bends in the install. ....Looks awful.

I decided to have him stop halfway through and I went home and got my dremal. I used my dremal to cut the tabs out and that worked perfectly. I was able to do my kitchen counter, but the damage was already done to the table and TV shelf.

It's too expensive to order it again so I am going to have to file the rough spots and live with it.

I should have just done it myself. Live and learn.