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Old 01-07-2005, 09:19 PM   #15
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Lightbulb outwater plastics, COOL!

Steve,

Thanks for the tip on Outwater. I too, ordered the catalog! I think it will help to find a "flexible hinge" for on my 68 Overlander bathroom medicine chest door. I was taking a few things apart and the plastic hinge just snapped in two. Dryed out after sitting un-used for 10 years in Arizona.

Also, the tops of the underbed doors on the bins have the plastic cracking on them. I think this place will have something comparable for what I need!!!

I am so looking forward to some good warm weather!!! I'm dying to work on the A/S!! We've had tons of snow and it just keeps coming. No end in sight.

Best wishes on the dinette!

I just love this forum!!! If I can't be out "playing" with the A/S, I can at least make notes of things for when I can! Keep it up...all of you!!
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Old 01-07-2005, 09:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
I used 3/4" for the table top with a 13/16" extruded aluminum t-moulding from Outwater Plastics, no doubling up on the edge or extra supports.
So, just to get this right. If your use the tee molding you only need 3/4". If you plan on lamintating you need to double up the edging to give you the 1-1/2" to give you something to work with.

Does that sound right?

Also, do you glue the tee molding with wood glue, or just tap it in?
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Old 01-07-2005, 09:57 PM   #17
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There is a company in Tacoma WA that sells a product called richlite heres the link: www.richlite.com

This stuff is really srtong. It's made of wood fibers and somekind of impermiable resin. It was originally used to make ramps for skate board parks. Now it's sold as kitchen cutting boards and in 4 by 8 sheets for projects.
I have some - it is heat and water proof and looks like masonite - but it's totally different in composition. It's being used in high end kitchens and can be milled the same way wood can. My next counter or table product will be made of this stuff! Maybe you can use it on your dinette project.

It costs more than plywood - but consider the labor you will put into this project - don't cut corners on materials....
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Old 01-07-2005, 10:29 PM   #18
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Hey Tim,

That's an idea! A dinette that converts into a bed that converts into an indoor skateboard ramp. That would certainly increase your resale value

I'm getting punchy now...goodnight.

Steve
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Old 01-07-2005, 10:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
So, just to get this right. If your use the tee molding you only need 3/4". If you plan on laminating you need to double up the edging to give you the 1-1/2" to give you something to work with.

Does that sound right?

Also, do you glue the tee molding with wood glue, or just tap it in?
It helps with the thickness but you could get away with 3/4. Its done all the time with back splashes and such. The extra width gives it a better bonding surface and the end of most plywoods is often not as smooth as the top so you need all glue surface you can get. It you used a filler on the end grain and machined it flat with the router it can be done.

A Tip if you do try to go with the 3/4 thickness is to do the edge FIRST then the top. The reason is the top will help protect the edge from snags. Other then that Laminate is much easier to work with then most realize. I have done several projects and very happy with the results. Attached is a coffee table I made.

Now the flips side is you could use 1/2 inch thing and put a 2 inch inch strip around the edges and a couple strips down the middle to add a little bit of strength and loose a few pounds in the weight department.

That material Janet posted looks quite inter sting. That stuff you can take a 1/4 round or a detail shaper in the router and dress the edge and not need to do any other finish work. I was concerned about the weight vs the stability but it seems to have the same working features of a better grade or 3/4 ply. VERY interesting stuff. I may have to check into that myself.

here is the table. The top is actually a piece of counter top that was already Formica covered. If you sand the finish off to give someplace for the adhesive to bite you can Formica over Formica. That will let you easily retain the already cut counter top if its only problem is the finish is worn. Throw some 120 grit on a palm sander and go to town on it.
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Old 01-08-2005, 12:06 AM   #20
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Hey 59toaster, that looks great.

Nice job!
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Old 01-08-2005, 12:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfixx

BTW, do you have a water tank under the front bed? What are you doing about that?

I'll be interested in your progress. Please keep us posted.

Steve
Steve,

I forgot to mention, my water tank is not under the front bed. It's under the floor. One less thing to worry about as far as building my dinette
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Old 01-08-2005, 07:26 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
-my water tank is not under the front bed. It's under the floor.
You're luckey, mines not but I think that if I box in that front shelf like you did and continue with a low box over the tank if will minimize the problem. I hate to loose any table width though so I suppose I'll look into a smaller water tank or pair of tanks that will fit under the bench seats.

After checking out their web site I've been thinking alot about that Richlite plywood because the key to my interior design will be toughness. I may fabricate the entire dinette out of a complementary colored Richlite. And then match the kitchen countertop to that.

Laminate is tough but I would never edge the dinette table with it because it's prone to chipping when pressed on a corner or edge and the abuse it would receive during conversion from table to bed and back would be too much. That's also a good reason to double up the edge of any table top at least to 1" thick. Visually I think that 3/4" just doesn't look beefy enough anyway.

By the way, I'm not sure that the metal edging is designed to be glued in but if I did I would use a small bead of Liquid Nails of PL-400 construction adhesive. Wood glue wouldn't be appropriate because it needs a pourous material to adhere, but then again maybe the new polyurethane "gorilla" type glues would work. I've never used them.

By the way...it's a beautiful morning in Northern Ohio!

Steve
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Old 01-08-2005, 08:24 AM   #23
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Great job toaster!

Wow - great table - what or where did you get the metal pillars from? Did you make those? That's a great idea for cabinetry for my trailer - metal posts with tangs to support 1/4" wood between them. I love the look.

I'm always so impressed with the work one sees here on the forum. Keep the ideas up.

That Richlite looks great too - is it heavy?
Marc
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Old 01-08-2005, 09:23 AM   #24
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don't know if it helps , but here is a link to photos of my fold out table. Ash and oak, with a light finish, brass hinge. Used the original fold out leg assembly. It has held up great.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ighlight=table
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Old 01-08-2005, 03:43 PM   #25
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Looks good Alan. An inspiration!

Well, I went out and bit the bullet and bought a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" birch/maple plywood $33. Also another rough sheet of 11/32" $13, and 4x8 of laminate $43.

Man this can get expensive.

I thought I was going to be able to work on it a few hours today, but the clouds unleashed a big downpour while I was buying the supplies!

So... now I get to design some more ;-)
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Old 01-08-2005, 06:08 PM   #26
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yeah - it can get spendy. We built a new table and counter op for our minuet. They are edged with paduke - it's a tone wood with a deep cherry color. Its applied with biscuit joints and covered with urethane. We made the new table slightly narrower than the original to make it easier to get in and out. It was a big improvement. We carry some "cut to size" pieces of fir to use in the kne hole if the need for the bed arises. They can also be used for leveling and don't take up much space.
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Old 01-08-2005, 08:35 PM   #27
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WOW all of this is great!!! Sisnce I came to my sensus about the Overlander and am back to rebuilding the Ambassador, the dinette project is still alive. I have this thread bookmarked too. As Shari mentioned the table top is supported on the two long sides by the benches and only has to span the distance between the benches. I believe she said that the table leg supports part of the table top too. I'm planning a hinge that will act as a hanger when the table is in the bed position. The table top will swing out a little when being changed from day to night mode but it will alow one person operation and extra support in night mode.

I have too orderd a catalog
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Old 01-08-2005, 10:46 PM   #28
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I got motivated, went out tonight and removed my front goucho. How can you take decent measurements with a sofa in the way after all. The space for the dinette in my Argosy 20 seems pretty large to me and I'm confident that there's room for 4 on very comfortable bench seats. I'm going to try and fit the benches to fill the full 4' width between the window and the door but that will not fit the full size mattress I want so I may need to get creative. Too bad I found some water coming in with smallish longterm damage to floor. I posted pictures to my blog if you're interested(link below).

Steve
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