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Old 08-11-2010, 09:23 AM   #15
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Forgot - I would put about 10% Japan dryer in the boiled linseed oil and turpentine mix. It will help it dry faster. I think it is availabel at Home Depot and Lowe's.
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:32 AM   #16
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in my 62 GT , the cabinet wood was definitely not furniture quality. the top veneer was very thin, and the birch / maple ply we got at lowes was much nicer. we tried to keep the 'utilitarian' look w/ new retro hardware (same exact style as original), and im not sad at all that we replaced all the cabinetry.

in this pic you can still see the original on the face of the closet with the (new) 1/4" birch on the side of the closet facing the galley. we used minwax golden pecan w/ 2 coats of poly.





Original cabinets:



drawer / cab doors wood doesnt match the veneer of the face of the cabinet... grains going every whith way... ugly handles... this is my least favorite part of the original trailer. well that and the 1/2 tub.
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:33 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhilley View Post
Forgot - I would put about 10% Japan dryer in the boiled linseed oil and turpentine mix. It will help it dry faster. I think it is availabel at Home Depot and Lowe's.
I did mean to say "boiled" linseed oil. I have never heard of this "Japan Dryer", though. I will have to check it out.

I grew up around the smell of this mix, and it doesn't bother me. It only hangs around a day or so after you apply. I live in Vermont, and have had the cherry in my '67 with this finish for six years without a problem. It's nice to just be able to do the cleaning and polishing with one step each spring, when I take it out of my garage.

Never thought of what my gin or tequila would do if it dripped down the cabinets! That's why I absolutely hate any finish that has any wax in it!!!
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Old 08-11-2010, 02:59 PM   #18
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Japan drier is a catalyst to force drying of oil paints and works very well on boiled linseed oil, plain & boiled linseed oil requires wood grain to soak into, otherwise both are non-hardening, the plain staying plain oily.

I just used the combination to rust-proof thin-walled steel tubing by sponge swabbing it on the interiors of 8-foot sections to keep condensation from tearing the welds apart from the inside out. After two days curing in sunshine it had turned into a jelly coating....
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Old 08-11-2010, 07:29 PM   #19
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Just a reminder "Boiled" linseed oil is not "boiled" it is the addition of lead, which makes it poison. Not sure I would want it on my hands all that much or my walls. I think most of the poisionings with it are from mixing "boiled" linseed oil as a feed additive rather than straight linseed oil, But we probably have enough lead in our lives that we can't avoid. Kind of spooks me.
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Old 08-11-2010, 08:06 PM   #20
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I did not know about the japan drier with the linseed oil. Gives me an option that might look kinda factory. I like working with shellac but it is kinda sensitive to moisture. I am leaning to the side of oak for the interior. Thanks again for all of the info! Dan
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Old 08-11-2010, 10:14 PM   #21
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Watco oil is still available. You can find it at Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, Rockler, etc.

It comes in a variety of colors as well as "Natural" clear finish. It also gives the hand rubbed finish described by others using linseed oil.

I believe that Airstream used this in 1962.
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Old 08-12-2010, 02:52 PM   #22
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Dr. Dan, I was bothered by your lead in linseed oil comment so I called a friend who owns a paint manufacturing business is Massachusetts. He told me that there is mangenese in boiled linseed oil, not lead. He said the EPA caused the lead to be removed several years back. My only thought is - what does mangenese do to you? Is it less dangerous than lead? Also, I asked the salesperson at Home Depot for turpentine and he told me it was no longer carried! I guess you have to go to a paint store for such.
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Old 08-16-2010, 08:38 AM   #23
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Thanks mhilley, I was unaware of the change. I had toxicology 26 years ago and I didn't know they had fixed that problem. I looked up mangenese in my Small animal toxicology text and there was no listing, so as far as I can tell it was a good switch. You can truly learn something new every day, thanks again.
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Old 08-16-2010, 09:16 AM   #24
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It looks as though a PO has done some woodworking on your cabinetry, at least on the galley cabinet. The large door has been sanded down through the veneer on the upper left and so have a couple of the drawers. They also took out the slide-out bread board from above the drawers. Who knows what type of finish he may have used. It will take some experimentation to get a matching finish.

Excellent info everyone. Thanks for posting.

Brad
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Old 08-16-2010, 10:46 AM   #25
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You can get Japan Drier at a good paint store. I use in a mix of boiled linseed oil, semi gloss poly and paint thinner for my furniture. The proportions I vary. It is a good finish but not great for a table top and water. You can use up to about 3 oz of drier per gallon I never have used quite so much. I get a real nice finish by sanding with 2000 grit before last coat or even when I apply last coat comes out like silk. I don't know if that is needed in your case. I sand to 320 grit before first coat but 220 will due just fine too. I apply it with blue paper towels I get from Costco.

One thing about Watco is the long time before you can put a top coat on it really slows things up. The formula has changed as was mentioned earlier post. Good Luck. Tony

P.S. remember to dispose of the oil soaked rags properly I put in a 5 gal bucket of water, to avoid the chance of spontaneous combustion which really can happen.
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