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Old 08-01-2010, 10:35 PM   #15
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1976 31' Sovereign
Springfield , South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 233
In checking out storage areas today on the 76 I just got a overhead stuck half way up. I went and got the tire spray bottle with Ivory and water in it. Sprayed the tracks with door up and worked it back and for a few times. Worked like a champ. Might just add a little Ivory to the mix to make it slicker.

Tambour under sink is another problem. It is delaminating and slivers want to jump track. I cut off bad end as a interim fix and found the major part of the problem. The piece of wood the lower scroll (under sink counter 76 Sovereign) has come loose. It was only air stapled in the first place. Now I gotta figure out how to get epoxy to where it is needed to get the lower scroll to stay still while tambour is being uploaded. Also gotta figure out how to clamp in place
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Old 09-17-2010, 04:35 PM   #16
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1976 31' Sovereign
Springfield , South Carolina
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Closer examination of the tambour door revealed multiple problems. Primarily poor workmanship.

1. The scroll inlets are not in line with the outer track. The credenza was examinated and they are in line and work great. The galley ones are out of line about 1/2"! ! !! I bet this thing has been a problem since the first owner! !! ! ! ! It has two WBCCI numbers on the unit 3581 and 10148 was removed to put on the 3581.
Anybody know these folks?

2. The mounting plates were just crown stapled in place.

3. The mounting plates are too close together so to get the door to ride in the scrolls it has to rise about 1/8" and it binds at the top and bottom.

4. I will tear out bottom scroll mount and lower it about 1/4" so the tambour will not bottom out in the scroll but just be guided by the rails.

Obviously the same guy that built the credenza did not do the galley.
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Old 09-25-2011, 02:10 PM   #17
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1973 25' Tradewind
Ringoes , New Jersey
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fixed some tambour

Today I removed, fixed, and re-installed two of the lower bed tambour doors. It was quite easy, I used heat seam carpet seal to repair the tambour. I cut it in the correct length and ironed it onto the back of the tambour. They look and work great, I'll try and update how well they hold up. MPJ
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:00 PM   #18
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1973 27' Overlander
San Antonio , Texas
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Don't know if anyone else is looking at this forum but I found it to be an inspiration. I am picking up my 1973 Overlander next weekend and I noticed when we bought it that the tambour doors under the sink were the worst and those under the bunks were pretty bad. I have been trying to think for the past few days how to go about it. Thanks for all the work you guys have done already. Does anyone have any pics of when they were fixing theirs? I kind of got the idea from reading, but I am more of a visual learner.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:22 PM   #19
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1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
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Estancia , New Mexico
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Better than duct tape, but still temporary

Get some aluminum metal foil tape. It will last a lot longer than duct tape but is still a jerry rig fix.

I have had good success with removing the handle, then metal foil tape strips every 9 inches or so 90 degrees to the strips. Then ballistic nylon covering the whole back attached with contact cement. Make sure the ends are bare where they fit into the guide. Also keep it sliding with silicone spray in the guides.

It is a time consuming process.
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Old 02-02-2012, 07:47 PM   #20
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1974 27' Overlander
Newark , Ohio
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The ultra-coat material ironed on to the back of the tambours is working great. Three are complete and three more are in progress.
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Old 02-10-2012, 10:00 PM   #21
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1972 23' Safari
San Antonio , Texas
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I keep seeing tambour with a rod and spring, but the ones in my '72 Safari just seems to have a track where it all rolls up, and under the kitchen sink it coils into a spiral. Was there a difference between the two?
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:18 AM   #22
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1971 23' Safari
Marietta , Georgia
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I tried using the iron-on material to repair the tambour doors in my '71 Safari, but the stuff didn't stick. I must not have applied it correctly.

So, I bought a bunch of canvas duck cloth and some Gorilla Wood Glue for the repair. I cut the paper backing in between each tambour slat to separate the slats from one another then squared the slats up on the duck cloth and applied glue under each slat. I used about 1/3 or so bottle of Gorilla Glue per tambour door. I wanted as much glue surface contact between the tambour door and the cloth as possible.

I cut a couple pieces of plywood sized specifically for the tambour doors for clamping. I sandwiched the tambour door in between the plywood then clamped the whole thing down together with Irwin clamps. I let it dry 24 hours then trimmed off the excess duck cloth. It was very flexible and 6 months later the repaired tambour doors are holding up perfectly.

One important note - the slats must be squared off for gluing otherwise the tambour door won't glide correctly in the tracks. I have repaired and installed about 1/2 the doors in my Safari and they are holding up very well.
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:33 AM   #23
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1974 27' Overlander
Puyallup , Washington
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I like the Gorilla Glue idea! It's been 7 1/2 years since I did mine with contact cement. a couple of the doors have spots that have come unglued. All doors still function well. The canvas has held up.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:02 AM   #24
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Only problem I foresee with Gorilla Glue is getting the right amount as when curing it expands and foams. I use several strips of aluminum tape 90 degrees to the tambour slats and then ballistic nylon as a backing.
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:25 AM   #25
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1971 23' Safari
Marietta , Georgia
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Yes, I have seen that foaming process with the regular version of Gorilla Glue, but I haven't seen that with Gorilla Wood Glue. I've had several tambour doors glued up and installed for 6 months and so far no problems.
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Old 10-20-2016, 07:28 PM   #26
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1972 23' Safari
Auburn , Washington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Tortuga View Post
Hey ! that sounds good . i was just tonight trying to remove mine for repairs, but i was going to try duct tape, and go right along the the breaks. maybe this ultra coat is better ? stronger ? can't be cheaper ,but cheap isn't always the way to go . I will check it out at the local hobby shop
no duct tape! I just bought an 71 with failed duct taped tambour doors which heavy sticky tape residue is adding another problem!
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:00 AM   #27
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1970 27' Overlander
Hernando , Florida
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Tambour Doors

Don't forget, bar soap or bees wax applied to the tambour ends will keep them sliding smooth and trouble free.
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Old 11-05-2016, 09:33 AM   #28
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1994 21' Sovereign
Klamath Falls , OR
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Great advice here.
I am in need of building a complete tambour door. There is a cabinet shop that I'm going to let build it for me. My '72 Silver Streak has all the plastic guides in place. I assume the wood of choice is oak? The rest of the cabinets are the originals. Dark paper veneer with birch bark inserts.
Looking good.
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