I'm not angry with my jammed, buckled, ugly galley tambour anymore--I just want it gone. I'm interested in what anyone has done to creatively replace tambour --in other words, what non-tambour solutions have you come up with?
hi- I had same problem with my '72, decided to go with sliding doors. I made top and bottom tracks by putting 2 saw kerfs in a strip of wood that I then fit and glued into the metal channels, then simply used formica as the doors themselves. I do not plan on keeping loose heavy items in these compartments while traveling, but if you do you might want something thicker and stronger than formica. Just one way to go, simple and light, no hardware. If you wanted a CCD effect you could use that translucent plastic panel used in flourescent light fixtures, with a small light inside the compartment. Overlander 63 has a good idea too, probably many other options if you are creative.PM me if you want more info on my idea- Tim
Hi Vince Brach--A refinement to "tphan's" sliding by-pass: use extruded plastic double channel. It looks like a squared "W" in profile ( LLl ) is about 5/8" wide and 3/8" high with two tracks about 1/4" wide each. What I saw was in dark brown, and relatively inexpensive, in one of the big box stores, where they have shelving. Use 1/8" hard masonite for the sliders and drill a 1" finger hole in each slider for opening. Have about a 1" over lap at the center of the space. Toward the bottom of the overlap drill about a 1/4" steep angled hole down thru the overlaping sliders into the bottom frame. Into this hole insert a nail when traveling to keep the sliders from vibrating open. I haven't done this yet as most of my tambors still work pretty well, but I'm getting ready to do one sticker.--Frank S
I find the tambor slides very attractive and utilitarian. When my old 1975 land yacht had missing panels, I went to a cabinet supply shop, bought stock tambor (it comes in 4x8'sheets) and cut the sizes that I needed, stained and polyurethaned them. The hardest was getting the into the tracks without completely dissasembling the units. I cut a small slot in the top and bottom aluminum tracks in such a way that when the door was completely opened, it just fit the whole slider. I never had a problem with them coming out. It was time consuming but no more than making swing doors. I couldn't take the constant interference of the doors swinging into the small walkway.
I would certainly do it again and may have to in my new 1973 31' Excella.
the po of my trailer took the old tambor and used it with new framing to make regular cabinet doors. Looks pretty good, he just forgot to add good magnetic latches
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Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
I find the tambor slides very attractive and utilitarian. When my old 1975 land yacht had missing panels, I went to a cabinet supply shop, bought stock tambor (it comes in 4x8'sheets) and cut the sizes that I needed, stained and polyurethaned them. The hardest was getting the into the tracks without completely dissasembling the units. I cut a small slot in the top and bottom aluminum tracks in such a way that when the door was completely opened, it just fit the whole slider. I never had a problem with them coming out. It was time consuming but no more than making swing doors. I couldn't take the constant interference of the doors swinging into the small walkway.
I would certainly do it again and may have to in my new 1973 31' Excella.
Joe
is there a way to fix them? mine are in great shape but they don't want to slide open. they close fine. wax or sooap or sanding or cabinet doors?
Hi Vince Brach--A refinement to "tphan's" sliding by-pass: use extruded plastic double channel. It looks like a squared "W" in profile ( LLl ) is about 5/8" wide and 3/8" high with two tracks about 1/4" wide each. What I saw was in dark brown, and relatively inexpensive, in one of the big box stores, where they have shelving. ...-Frank S
Frank, what do you suppose the intended purpose of this track was? might help locate it in the vast expanses of big-box-hardware-world.
I have something similar. The PO put alluminum track on the outside of all my cabinets, then used that fake panneling stuff for doors. it works, but its really hokey. the track is readily available, too...the profile is more like a cross between the letter E and F. Imagine rotating the letter "F" 90 degrees left; except 2 tracks. or, "E" on it's side, with a stem. that stem part is riveted to the top and bottom of the cabinets, so the tracks are along the outside of the cabinet faces. there might be pics in my photo gallery...
I'd rather have the old tambour, and fix it up. I've collected some pieces that another member was going to toss....need to get more before I can actually do much with it.
Here is an excellent photo essay on how to make the repairs:
We replaced one of the two tambour doors that didn't work in our 78 Argosy. I love this door in the bathroom; however, I haven't decided how to replace that large one under the kitchen sink. Think we may go with a double door type similar to this one. It's only the horizontal ones that we have had trouble with; however, it got old really fast. We just don't open the one in the kitchen any longer.
i went ou t this morning and bought some teflon dry lubricant. it pretty well fixed my tambour door jamming problem. no kidding. a couple good sprays in the tracks and they work great. the only one i have to be delicate w/ is the under sink one, which is the biggest one and only right at the end when almost all folded in. a little more lube and cleaning over a couple seasons and it will probably glide free. the can i got was at lowes for $5, dupont teflon. a few minutes spray and i'm keeping my original tambour doors.
I made new tambour sliders after getting the raw material from a laminate supplier near me. It was real wood and required staining and finishing with polyurethane. While there were no doors in the tracks, I cleaned them and made sure that all of the edges were smooth. Cutting small portals near the collection roll as close to the most open position, I carefully slid the new doors into the track. It took quite a bit of sliding and lubricating to get them smooth. I lubricate with everything that came to mind except for excessive oily materials.
They worked good and looked great. I can't stand the extension into the walkway and the need for secure locks to carry anything while on the road without risk of opening.
Hi chuck--The plastic "E" on its side extrusion I mentioned in my 5-19-06 post was rail for sliding doors. I saw it in a big box store in the area where they have finished shelving.--Frank S
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