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11-20-2012, 04:03 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Removing cabinets in a 1960 Ambassador
I recently purchased a 1960 Ambassador, and I am working on gutting it and replacing everything. I have pulled all the bolts from the first cabinet(to the left as you walk in), and still this thing won't budge. What am I missing here. I can see two rail of aluminium runing on both the inside and outside of the boards. These rails are rivetted to to the walls. Are these somehow keeping me from removing the cabinets?
Along the same lines, is there a market for the items I am removing? I will be pulling all of the cabinets, the stove, and fridge, light fixtures(maybe more). What about the folding table? The couch is in pretty rough condition, so I don't think it's worth salvaging.
Thanks in advance,
-J
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11-20-2012, 04:16 PM
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#2
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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The rails won't be holding the cabinet in, did you find the screws that screw the unit to the floor? Just keep wiggling until you feel where it's still attached. I found it easier to pry up from below gently because the screws were rusted.
Yes there is value to what you are removing, you can offer them for sale in the classified. Or join the airstream spirit and help out those that are missing specific items by offering them up for postage alone.
Welcome , and if you have the black or white hexagonal knobs with the backplates I'd be interested in purchasing, if you aren't reusing
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11-20-2012, 07:52 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Western
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
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J-
Welcome to the forums.
I just looked at the original layout of your trailer and it looks like your cabinet is a refrigerator and a set of drawers. If it is like the Overlanders of that era, there are probably screws inside your broom closet that hold it in place too.
Keep in mind that the answers you get here are often what Airstream did originally. Who knows what happened in the intervening years.
Yes, there is a market for the stuff you're pulling out. Depending on the wood, I'd be interested in panels and doors.
Good luck with it!
John
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11-20-2012, 11:47 PM
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#4
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Hello and thanks for the quick replies. I've got to be missing some screws somewhere. These cabinets are in there solid, wiggling is out of the question. Right now I'm not sure what I'll be re-using or not, but I do have the hex-knobs, and probably won't be using them.
John, I wish my layout was like that. If it was I'd be looking more at restoring and not remodeling. I have a fridge there, but the cabinets go all the way to ceiling with a heater on the side toward the door, and the kitchen cabinets on the other side come to about 3 feet from the sofa. There's just no room in there to speak of.
I moved on to the overhead cabinets over the beds, and found some pretty well hidden screws, but they aren't budging yet either. I actually think they might be attached to the dividing wall from the inside. They sure built these things well. I'm trying to pull everything out without causing any damage to the originals. That way I can use the curves as templates when I go to rebuild it.
I bought this because I will be going back to school and won't be able to work as often as I am used to, and I figured if I can get this thing livable it will drastically cut down on my rent costs, and in the meantime be a decent investment. On top of that, I figure it will be a nice project to do over the winter/spring, but...
...there are a couple of bad places on the floor, and I'm about to lose it on these cabinets, and that carpet has got to go. This thing was literally used as a storage shed for 20 years, and well it needs some TLC. Honestly though, I'm surprised at how well it has cleaned up so far. I would have thought there would be more wrong with it than there is. The electric works fine, but the airconditioner isn't working. I haven't checked the gas yet, mainly because I don't know if there are any leaks. I was surprised to find that the light in the front(hanging from the kitchen cabinet) is a gas light, and the fridge runs on propane as well. I am almost certain I'll be going with an electric fridge, but I'd like to see if the one in there actually works. Does anyone know how much propane it takes to run it?
I guess tomorrow I'll be looking at the floor for some screws as well.
Again thanks for the replies,
-J
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11-20-2012, 11:55 PM
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#5
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65CV
J-
Keep in mind that the answers you get here are often what Airstream did originally. Who knows what happened in the intervening years.
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....honestly from the looks of it, most of the interior is still original, just a bit worse for the wear in some spots. The outside has been altered a bit though, at some point someone welded a huge metal box to the bumper area which appears to have been extended about three feet, not to mention the various antanae that have been connected. to it.
-J
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11-21-2012, 06:19 AM
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#6
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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Your furniture was put in from the bathroom forward. Everything came in the door in sections, and it will go out the same way. There are lots of screws holding it all together that you are just not seeing yet. Often the heads are sucked into the wood framing and you just have to find them. Break it down to small components in your head and start taking them apart. Those closest to the door come out first. Counter tops should be the very first thing to go, followed by the cabinets closest to the door. As told earlier, the screws going into the floor are very difficult to remove. They are often fussed to the plywood floor. I have found sliding a hack saw blade under the item and cutting them is often be the only solution to removing them. Also as told earlier, wiggle the items and deduct where the item is still fastened. Just one screw will keep it in place and make it frustrating. Try to envision the interior being put together and reverse the process.
You have, in my opinion, a unit built during Airstreams best years(1958- 1962). The functionality and quality of construction is the best it ever was. During this period everything was planned for future service or repair. Removing the furniture should not be a total frustration once you figure out the system with which it was installed.
Inherent in your era you will most likely find rotten floor in the rear, under the street side front window, in the very front, and next to the door. Structurally, you will find very little issues with exception of the rear most cross member.
You will find problems needing addressing, but you have bought a very good year to work on. Enjoy the adventure you have gotten yourself into.
We all love seeing photos. How about posting some?
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12-05-2012, 07:21 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,270
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I'm taking mine apart now. I'm finding it appears that my 69 ambassador was built in sections. If you can't find the screws on one side, look on the other side of the wall. You might have to take one section apart to get to the screws in another section. They do hide well. Try keeping the bulkheads so you can copy curve when you rebuild. I have not seen any place to buy Pre made ones, so you will have to remake them at some point, if you want walls...
__________________
Not all those who wonder are lost.
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12-30-2012, 03:45 AM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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...definitely want walls.
...Just realized all the replies to this post were going to my spam folder. I think I've got it worked out now though. I haven't had time to get into this project like I had hoped I would, but I did hunt down some photos from before I started pulling the cabinets. She was used for storage quite some time and it shows.
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01-20-2013, 04:04 PM
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#9
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Okay, it was a beautiful day today in Oklahoma and I had nothing to do, so I completed the removal of the cabinets on the passengers side of the trailer, but I ran into some surprises in the process. Firstly I found some major water damage to the floor underneath the fridge, but the one that has me boggled is the fridge itself won't fit through the door.
If anyone knows how to remove the door from the fridge, and the coil setup from the back without damaging either, it would be immensely helpful. I don't see any other way of getting it out, barring hoisting it through a window(which I am considering at this point).
Thanks,
J
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01-29-2013, 05:30 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
1956 26' Cruiser/Overlander
1961 28' Ambassador
Currently Looking...
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 120
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Is there some reason a '60 Ambassador should have a 3 x 3 concrete pad in centered near the front of the trailer?
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01-29-2013, 05:38 PM
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#11
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Restorations done right
Commercial Member
1962 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Vintage Kin Owner
Currently Looking...
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,545
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post a photo of that please...
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01-29-2013, 06:13 PM
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#12
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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01-29-2013, 06:28 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1961 16' Bambi
Malden
, Missouri
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 159
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Looks like you've got a fun project on your hands! And thanks for including the pics you've posted.
I'm looking for interior lights for my unit, so if you decide to sell any of yours I'd be interested in pics and prices.
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01-29-2013, 09:26 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1969 29' Ambassador
brooksville
, Florida
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1,270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowdyATX
Is there some reason a '60 Ambassador should have a 3 x 3 concrete pad in centered near the front of the trailer?
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Yea a pic would be great! It could be to add tongue weight by a PO?
__________________
Not all those who wonder are lost.
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01-30-2013, 01:01 AM
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#15
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ragin-cajun
Looks like you've got a fun project on your hands! And thanks for including the pics you've posted.
I'm looking for interior lights for my unit, so if you decide to sell any of yours I'd be interested in pics and prices.
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I'm currently looking to sell most everything from the interior, but I'm wanting to get it all out first, and then sort through it. I can't give you a definite time frame of when it will be, but I am aiming to have it stripped down by spring/early summer depending on greatly on when my schedule will allow.
-J
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01-30-2013, 05:22 AM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1961 16' Bambi
Malden
, Missouri
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 159
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Thanks for the reply and the timeframe estimate! Looking forward to seeing what you've got and how your project progresses.
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01-30-2013, 05:57 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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The interior does not look that bad.
Perry
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01-31-2013, 06:29 AM
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#18
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1 Rivet Member
1960 28' Ambassador
wagoner
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 9
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Honestly, it's not that bad, but I want to open up more space as well as upgrade the appliances. I actually think the fridge might work, but I have to get it out first. Hopefully this weekend I can get around to that. I'm leaning towards hoisting it out the window at this point, it seems to be a simpler alternative than taking it apart.
-J
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01-31-2013, 06:40 AM
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#19
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Site Team
1963 26' Overlander
Hollis
, New Hampshire
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky13thday
Honestly, it's not that bad, but I want to open up more space as well as upgrade the appliances. I actually think the fridge might work, but I have to get it out first. Hopefully this weekend I can get around to that. I'm leaning towards hoisting it out the window at this point, it seems to be a simpler alternative than taking it apart.
-J
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What if you open the refrigerator door, put the door thru the main entrance first, then swing the rest of the refrigerator body thru.... Definitely going to take two strong people and maybe a third to keep the refrigerator door from marring the outside skin but doable.
Refrigerator doors usually come off very easily, just screws and pins.....
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Parts needed : Braund Antenna front tube fold down model!
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