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Old 01-30-2004, 08:19 PM   #1
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Refacing / Relaminating cabinets

While I'm at it, haven't checked all the threads, but can the cabinets be resurfaced with a new wood veneer (sp?). THe dark plasticy wood just won't cut it.
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Old 01-30-2004, 08:32 PM   #2
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That would be a MAJOR undertaking. My suggestion would be to consider painting. The panels you are dealing with are already a laminate panel. Most of them appear to be 3/8" or 1/2" plywood with the laminate glued on both faces, plus you have the aluminum extrusions on the edges. If you choose to paint, make sure you clean thoroughly and use a high grade of primer designed to stick to laminates. I will see if I can find the name of the one my wife used to prime our bathtubs before she repainted. It was something..."gripper"

Aaron
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Old 01-30-2004, 09:25 PM   #3
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I don't think it would be THAT big of deal (sorry Aaron)...I made our dinette & used an oak veneer to match our existing 40 year old cabinets. The result of the refacing would be a GREAT upgrade!

A couple of hurdles you'd have to overcome though:

1. I would suggest sanding the old plastic off (or use chemicals?) to assure a good adherence to the substrate...I wouldn't glue the new veneer directly to the old plastic stuff, it probably wouldn't stick well. You'd have to do the same to paint with good long-term results.

2. If you were wanting to put it on tambour doors, I would think it would be easier to just replace the tambour...too many small pieces.

3. Have you considered replacing only the doors and just resurfacing the cabinets...either with veneer or by painting?

There are several threads here talking about veneers and similar ideas, I would suggest a search using "veneer" as a keyword.

Good luck in whatever you decide to do ~ maybe someday I'll get to see the end results!

Shari
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Old 01-30-2004, 09:35 PM   #4
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I didn't even think about replacing the doors. might be a good idea. We're trying to replicate an airstream someone sent us pics of a couple weeks ago. I'm sure you all have seen it. It has a wrap around couch, dark stained wood. (Well, we're doing the cheaper version).

The tambour (another word I need to learn instead of rolly doors) doors are another issue. We are trying to completely rid the Overlander of the 70's look. And with that, needs to go the finish on the tambours.

Thanks!

Ron & Tony
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Old 01-31-2004, 04:52 AM   #5
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Okay Shari,
I was basing my reply on the fact the 70's vintage AS have the plastic laminate with aluminum extrusions on the edges, if you try to add a face laminate you are going to have a problem with what to do when you hit the extrusion. Plus trying to cut the laminate to fit all of the curves. Sanding the laminate to the substrate is going to be difficult if not impossible, you can use a heat gun and soften the glue and peel the laminate back with limited sucess, think kithchen counter here, that is what the entire interior of the 70' units is made out of. Plastic Laminate on plywood, fitted together with aluminum extrusions. Believe me I have looked at that issue over and over. I would think that paint would be the easiest. I am not saying the laminate couldn't be done. IMHO wood veneer is much easier to work with than the plastic laminates especially in a retro fit situation. A wood veneer is also much easier to repair than a plastic laminate. I think I have found a source for a matching laminate to the 70's vintage interiors, I am waiting on the sample to arrive to verify this. Otherwise I will need to find a donor unit for some parts I need.

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Old 01-31-2004, 06:51 AM   #6
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I took apart one of my doors from the front of the trailer, and then another from the bedroom area. The extrusions can be removed, as well as the locking mechanism. What is left then is a paper honeycomb panel with composite sheets on both sides.
when painting, I would recommend taking the doors apart to get a very crisp, clean look.
Just as well might want to make new door inserts. It depends on how good you are with tools and woodworking. The panels are very light, but wood such as Italian Poplar plywood is also very light. This wood has a almost white appearance and can be stained to match one's taste.
The rest of the cabinetry are the tambour doors and the aluminum frames which use strip type inserts. The inserts are easy to replace.
That would leave the counter tops.
Take a look at http://www.vintage-vacations.com/index.html for inspiration
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:14 AM   #7
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Uwe,
I haven't taken any doors apart...yet I do know that the bulk of the cabinet sides and room dividers (walls?) are typically 3/16" plywood with laminate on both sides. I really don't like the fake teak look of the unit I have, but I don't want to paint either. I had considered a full tear out and rebuild...but don't have the time or money to do it right know. The plan at this point is to make the unit as serviceable as possible, I may be living in it before long then look to finding another one or two or three or....units to play with I really like the mid 70's Caravanner would loved to have the one bigshinything just sold but that was too rich for my blood. Beautiful unit though!

Aaron
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Old 01-31-2004, 07:36 AM   #8
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The walls are easy to replace, I agree. I had to take the bathroom walls out, in order to replace the rear floor section. Other than drilling out rivets and removing tons of screws, it was very easy to do.
I will do "something" with these walls before putting them back in, either replacements or refinishing. The plastic-fantastic look of the 70's does not appeal to me and makes the interior look dark and gloomy.
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:02 AM   #9
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Is there a way of removing the U shaped aluminum trim from the edges of the partition walls without wrecking either the trim or the wall?
Dick
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Old 01-31-2004, 10:58 AM   #10
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Dick,
Most of it seems to be held on with some type of grip clip, I got mine off by sliding a very thin putty knife under it and just worked it off carefully.

Aaron
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Old 01-31-2004, 11:26 AM   #11
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I understand your point Aaron...

Quote:
Originally posted by wahoonc
Okay Shari,
I was basing my reply on the fact the 70's vintage AS have the plastic laminate with aluminum extrusions on the edges, if you try to add a face laminate you are going to have a problem with what to do when you hit the extrusion. Plus trying to cut the laminate to fit all of the curves. Sanding the laminate to the substrate is going to be difficult if not impossible, you can use a heat gun and soften the glue and peel the laminate back with limited sucess, think kithchen counter here, that is what the entire interior of the 70' units is made out of....I would think that paint would be the easiest.
Guess it depends on how badly you want wood and how comfortable you are tackling challenging projects! I would go for it...
Quote:
IMHO wood veneer is much easier to work with than the plastic laminates especially in a retro fit situation.

Aaron
I agree 100%...

Shari
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Old 01-31-2004, 12:30 PM   #12
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If you want to go with a plastic laminate all you need to do is measure the coverage of the edge strip, remove the wall, remove the edge strip,laminate the panel and cut away the excess that is covering the edge with a router. This will require researching a pilot bearing bit with the proper setback, but I am sure one exists. This would be cut back far enough for the edge to slide back on/in. Another option would be to use 2 sheets of laminate glued back to back and cut into the same shape as the wall was originally. I don't think this would be thick enough to fill the edge moldings.

I added laminate to one wall in our MH that was plywood and the plastic was peeling. The curve was a bear, but I was able to fit it inside the c channel at the wall. The other side was the frame for the sliding door so I had plenty of space. I ended up using Liquid nails panel adhesive to adhere it to the wall. That way I had some working time since I was installing it in place.

Just my $.02
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:12 AM   #13
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I'm considering painting the tambour doors (which are all in good condition) 1971. what would be the best way? Hang them over a garbage can so the paint can get to the sides? Has anyone has trouble with the tambour sticking once they are painted? Ours roll smoothly now. Do you need to create a crease between each piece of wood so it bends well? How have others done this? I like the rolled shape but not the tacky dark wood veneer.
Can you imagine people 30 years from now ,saying why did they change everything to that tacky CCD look? C'est la vie. silver suz
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Old 04-06-2004, 10:28 AM   #14
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IN orderer to paint them you will either have to spray the paint or disassemble the units to get the tambour out to paint and reinstall. Another option is to buy new plastic tambour from outwater plastics.

http://www.outwater.com/

They will send you a catalog of their products and it includes a number of different styles of tambour, including a mirrored one if I remember.
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