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Old 08-22-2011, 08:57 PM   #15
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Sorry to hear of the problems, some more info would help.

Were you using the gel stains? How long did you wait for the stain to dry? What brand of tung oil did you use? I know that when Minwax "improved" their stain formula there were incompatibility issues with other brands of tung oil.

It may be as simple as waiting few more days before applying the tung oil, and I'd suggest using the minwax brand (I like others better, but you won't have the incompatibility issue).
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:06 PM   #16
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Question How to seal the finish?

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Here is the finish after 2 coats Minwax red mahogany stain and a light sanding with very fine steel wool. Trying now to decide between satin finish poly or paste wax. What do you recommend?
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Old 08-23-2011, 09:33 PM   #17
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Fascinating thread. I'm probably old fashioned. My finishing methods are: stain with lacquer stain, seal with vinyl sealer, and top with pre-catalized lacquer. I never use steel wool on wood. I do use it on the bumper of my truck with a little chrome polish.
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:01 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hippiechick View Post
Attachment 138545

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Here is the finish after 2 coats Minwax red mahogany stain and a light sanding with very fine steel wool. Trying now to decide between satin finish poly or paste wax. What do you recommend?
I use a product called Arm R Seal
General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Urethane Topcoat - Rockler Woodworking Tools
for my final finish on refinishing projects. I used it on my kitchen cabinets three years ago & it's holding up beautifully. The good part about this finish is that it can be applied with a cloth, so you get no drips at all. I put 2 coats of gloss on and lightly sand with 200 grit garnet paper between coats (tack between too) and then I put the satin coats on. The gloss has more resin in it & closes up the pores in the wood more quickly than the satin. Also, if you start seeing gloss where the satin is worn, it's time to apply a fresh coat (that should be many years down the line) I'm not a fan of paste wax, but that's just my opinion! Good luck! Looks great so far.
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:02 AM   #19
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Jason, I was planning on using the minwax polyshades (stain and finish) on my '69 Safari. The manual says that the cabinets are walnut veneer with laquer. Do you know if the minwax will work over this? Mine are pretty dry and faded on the outside, but have some original finish on the unexposed parts.
Sara
It should But maybe try it on the inside first to make sure. Use 0000 wire wool to take the shine off. then try it. You want it dull and a little scuffed up..000 will work too.
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Old 08-24-2011, 04:24 AM   #20
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Stepping back to my previous life as a master woodworker with 18 years experience...

Many of the issues I see are caused by wanting to use low tech methods, such as wipe on and brush on materials. To get professional results you need professional technique.
The stain is almost always wipe on to apply. Some pros do spray their stain, but that is done in mass produced situations. Wiping on the stain allows you to control the saturation of color(gel stains are designed to speed this up by jamming the color into the pores of the wood. I avoid gel stains for that very reason minwax poly shades shove the whole process into one step). You need to flood the surface with the stain and allow it to sink into the wood. You need to remove the excess at just the right time and not leave any thick surface stain. This will only gum up and cause the finish to not adhere correctly. You need to let the stain dry totally. That usually means over night.
Once the wood is stained, next you need to apply a sealer. I spray on two thin coats of a laquer based sealer. The second coat goes over the first about a minute before the first coat has flashed off so they both bond well together.
After that has dried at least an hour, I sand it with 320grit silica carbide paper lightly to take any dust spots or wood fibers off. It is very smooth with no gloss. Next a top coat is sprayed that is also hit with a second coat just as the sealer was done. I let that dry for a couple hours and scuff sand it followed by one thin final coat.
wipe on finishes, brush on finishes, just do not lay down or hold up as they should. Everyone has different standards, and the wipe on poly may look good, but it just is not a professional finish. Applying ten coats of tung oil is not what Airstream did, they shot it with some laquer and moved on.
Now many will say, I don't have the equipment. Go get it or find a local cabinet maker and walk in with a six pack of beer and get to know him. Beer and cash work wonders in the blue collar field. Next thing you know, your wood is finished and you found a new drinking buddy.
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:47 AM   #21
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Many of the issues I see are caused by wanting to use low tech methods, such as wipe on and brush on materials. To get professional results you need professional technique.

Not always true. While sprayed laquer is how professionals finish fine woodwork, a professional looking finish can be attained by either a brush or a cloth. It's all in the technique. I've been refinishing/finishing wood for 30 years & have never sprayed a finish. My local professionals take $ only! For the home hobbiest (as most of us are) the extra time it takes to do our AS properly is just more love!
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:49 AM   #22
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Hippie Chick,
I'm assuming you used the red mahogany oilbased stain. As such you are going to have great difficulty applying any wipe on or brush on finish.

Minwax's mahogany oil based stain is very heavy in pigments. Some pigments are not absorbed into the wood, they sit on the surface. The solvents in your finish will partially dissolve the small amount of binder holding the pigments onto the wood. As you then brush back and forth you muddy up the stain leaving a blotchy appearance when it dries.

The Minwax polycrylic can actually has a warning that it is not to be used over the red mahogany stain. I tried it once on a test piece just for kicks and even though it worked, the next day the red in the stain was GONE. Looked like walnut, maybe the iron oxide in it reacted with the solvent? Weird.

Anyway what many will do is spray on a coat of lacquer or even oil based poly. This will "fix' the pigment and allow subsequent coats to be brushed on.

Test first!
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:33 PM   #23
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Wow, Thanks to all

Thanks so much for all the advice, what a wealth of expertise and skill is offered on this forum. I'm taking it all in.
I am definitely going to follow your advice Reniergirl - TEST FIRST.
That is what I failed to do before the first attempt with the tung oil. The stain was not gel and the Tung oil was Formby's. Obviously there was an issue with technique and possibly with incompatibility of products also.
62 overlander We have a skilled friend who is willing to spray with satin poly and fortunately he is a beer drinker. There again we will have to test first and see if we are pleased with the results. Ultimately that is the goal - that we would be happy with the results along with the satisfaction of doing it ourselves.
We are letting the doors dry in the house over the weekend as I have to be out of town. This will be a better environment for "curing" the stain. The humidity in the A/S or the garage is very heavy in Ky in Aug.
Thanks again.
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