Pull-out bin repair

[TomW]

The brown, pull-out bins in my '67 Overlander have not withstood the test of time very well. With suitable replacements being tough to find, I am forced to repair the ones I have.

The best looking idea I can come up with is to flip the bin over, and fill the lip with a combination of thin cotton rope & fiberglass resin. The problem is getting the thick resin to pour out of a mixing bowl into the lip without making a huge mess.

A giant syringe (without the needle) would be great, but I have never seen one of the size I would need (about the size of a tube of caulk).

Does anyone have either a better repair idea or a suggestion for applying the resin?

Thanks,
Tom

[74Argosy24MH]

Lacquer thinner will remove the resin when still liquid, don't know what it will do to the plastic, might not be pretty. Fiberglass will not stick to Johnson paste wax. I have used it when using an old part for a mold.

John

[sovereignrwe]

Trying to think outside the box, would a horse or vet. supply store be able to provide you with a syringe-like tool you are wanting?

[eubank]

Worked on ours several years ago. Used a hefty glue, but, more importantly, we found a thick wire that we cut into pieces and literally glued up into the lip. It added a bunch of strength that the plastic otherwise did not have.

Lynn

[JohnG]

You can use fiberglass cloth and it will be stronget than using a peice of cotton rope.

Here is a technique that I have used to patch some of these type things with good success. First you get the area ready for the patch by roughing it up so the fiberglass will hold. Next tape off the area a litle past where you intend on making the repair. this will help to keep the mess localized. The mix your resin and lay it down, then lay the cloth over it (The cloth should be pre-cut to the correct size for the repair) The put mor resin right on top of the cloth. It should soak the cloth so it almost disappears. Then you place a piece of regular glad wrap over the patch keeping the glad wrap wrinkle free and use a roller to compress it. Leave the glad wrap there until the patch is dry. It peels right off. The gald wrap leaves it with a smooth finish that is easy to rough a bit for painting.

You will of course be bulking that area up a little but it should be small enough to be unnoticeable.

[flamingo-kid1]

And I've just been matching the color of duct tape to the bin!


I have to try what you guys are doing.

[fireflyinva]

You are going to have to put in the fiber cloth, as John G writes. Even though it is tempting to just inject epoxy in the crack, you'll need the cloth there to regain the structural integrity that is currently compromised by the tear.

In my experience of repairing boats (and now my tub), there isn't any getting away from this. I have never heard of the saran wrap trick. Why not try it? If it fails to work, then you can sand it smooth anyways (wear a respirator, though!).

The epoxies I have used have not been totally clear, but you always can repaint the whole unit once the patch is smooth (either the same color or a whole new one).

Finally, you are probably going to have to remove the bin from the trailer and set it on the ground (or low surface) to fix it. It will be a lot less messy that way--no drips, its at a working level and you can paint the whole thing evenly at the end without having to mask off your whole trailer. Then you can smooth the epoxy one either with a brush or a plastic spreader (easier for thicker grades of epoxy).

Mary

[roadeo]

IMHO those brown plastic bins are almost junk.

I have all of our's stored for now. They all seem to be worn almost thru at the bottom corners, not sure why, but they don't need to hold liquid anyway.

I have never gotten around to searching but there are so many of the inexpensive Rubbermaid and other brands of plastic bins (with lids), You gotta hope and think there are sizes that would work????? Are there?????
I would much prefer the bins to have lids.
In the mean time I am hanging on to all of our "little brown ones".

As for patching and reinforcing, I think the rope/cord inserted under lip is a very novel idea.
I spent an hour today just looking at my recently removed AC shroud, wondering how in the Hell to beef it up. I have a few jury rig ideas but know that if I sneeze while it is on the bench it will blow all to Hell.

[Tarheel]

I would use an epoxy/ fiberglass repair. I rolled the lawn tractor in the ditch and did a number on the hood. It was going to cost $200 to replace the plastic hood. I roughed up the plastic with 100 grit sandpaper and then put a lightweight 3-4 oz cloth on it, several layers. I used good ole duct tape on the outside to hold everything in place. It worked for me.

[JohnG]

Those bins seem to get brittle with age for sure. I have some that are in great shape and some that are really not worth the time and effort to fix. If Rubbermaid makes a bin that is close in size I think I would go for replacing mine with them. I know the lids would be welcome since that would also help to keep mice out of it should they get into the trailer. So if anyone knows if they do then please post it here.

[CanoeStream]

I concur with the fiberglass cloth, but types for non-epoxy layups are coated so that they are incompatible with epoxy. I've done durable repairs on frequently stressed broken plastic parts to a good vacuum cleaner. They're still intact years later. The surface should be roughened with the coarsest sandpaper you've got -- a tall order for these thin tubs.

I haven't found a source except 'borrowing,' but catheter syringes fill the bill on one of your questions. (New, not used!)

[CanoeStream]

Search these forums on keywords: fiberglass mold.

I'd saved an URL from one forum member (wish I could remember who to credit...). That link is inactive but its home page does offer evidence they are on a timetable toward reconstructing it. Keep your eye on www.cstsales.com and when their "How to.." articles may all be back on line.

I Googled on 'How to make a fiberglass mold' and wouldn't you know it #1 turned out being the above website. Seems like something some of our retail participants could find a way to produce. It might require a production of several thousand and they would be bulky to store and ship. Mine don't nest very well! (Though I do have 8 and they are in reasonable shape.)

[Tarheel]

One of our club members had found some rubbermaid boxes that fit their trailer. They are great, watertight, I used them on my sailboat, and well made.