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Old 03-07-2010, 02:50 PM   #29
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HAPPY, Stunning work!
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:04 PM   #30
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More beautiful work, Zep!

don't know if you've decided on a table support system yet, but the Lif-Table (available from VTS) is a pretty neat way to quickly go from eating to sleeping.... I showed my installation here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...ble-60393.html

..and no sooner had I finished, when I decided to convert my 'twin' type dinette into a u-shape and use the removable-pole type of table support (also from VTS)...
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Old 03-07-2010, 06:48 PM   #31
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Looking Good!

Nice Work.
Check out my Blog. Pics of what I did to my Argosy. That Goucho just had to go along with the wall mounted fold out table. My table is hinged and mounted on the shelf that is across the front under the window. Just pull a pin and make the dinette into a bed.
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:23 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycampers View Post
This isn't very good pics but all I can find now. I used the old table slide and changed the leg and of course the top. If you look if you look on a thread called "Costalotta Start to Finish" I think there is some better shots of it.
Thanks for the pics. I like the drawers under the street side bench. I think I'll do more of that (drawers) in the Safari, instead of reach-under. I just wonder if you think the drawers are OK even with the table there.

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Old 03-07-2010, 07:33 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop View Post
...don't know if you've decided on a table support system yet, but the Lif-Table (available from VTS) is a pretty neat way to quickly go from eating to sleeping.... I showed my installation here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f38/...ble-60393.html
...
Yes, I studied your photos--thanks. I'm still a bit mystified by the Lif-table. I see how it flips up and down, but it seems to me that the length of the U-hinge determines the ratio of bed height to table height. My bench height is 15" at the front edge, with 3" cushions. I'm still experimenting with the table height, but I'm thinking the top of the table will be at or near 27.5". If the table is 3/4" thick, that would require the hinge to swing 11-3/4". So the U-shaped rod would be half that?

I don't know how the Lif-table would match my particular design.

Zep
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:58 PM   #34
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Zep, The two drawers on the street side open when the table is folded in the half table and where the third drawer would be is where the water pump and wiring is located and there isn't a drawer there, it is accessible from under the cushion. If you would like some better picsI would be glad to take some for you.

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Old 03-07-2010, 09:21 PM   #35
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Type of wood used?

Zep:

What type of wood did you use for the seat backs and bottoms on your front dinette in post 23? I love its strong contrasting coloring and grain.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:48 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47WeeWind View Post
...What type of wood did you use for the seat backs and bottoms on your front dinette in post 23? ...
Fred,

Thanks for noticing. The plywood is 1/2" Birch. All the edges are solid Maple--in most cases it's just soft maple, but in a few spots it's Hard Rock Maple. The soft Maple isn't always as white as the stock I was able to get my hands on for this project. I actually prefer my Maple to be a bit darker--still "white", but sort of off-white. This white stuff is too much like Basswood.

A note about the plywood. Five years ago and earlier, almost all the commonly available 1/2" Birch was similar--one side was patterned with the darker patches and the other side was essentially clear. Even though there was a "good" side, both sides were good enough to be the visible side. This was often referred to good, not fine, quality plywood, but I preferred it. It was the stuff carried by Home Depot, etc., but they don't carry 1/2" Birch these days.

Lately I have found it difficult to find sheets with good patterns. The "fine" sheets are too clear and the "good" sheets have a reverse side that often isn't good enough to use as the visible side. I have to go up to Consolidated Hardwoods in Broomfield to get what I like.

One other note on the plywood. I picked up some Birch at Austin Hardwoods that was "ok", but was too white and clear. I was in a hurry. When I got home and had to unload it by myself, I found that it weighed almost twice as much as I was accustomed to! I think it's Russian and has a Poplar core. Whatever, it's really too heavy for general use in an Airstream. And the veneer has a "hard," brittle feel. Replacing the orginal Airstream lightweight partitions with 1/2" plywood is already adding weight, so this stuff is a bad choice. I think I'll use it for the table, since it's slightly stiffer (not as much as the added weight ought to be).

Zep
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:29 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
Yes, I studied your photos--thanks. I'm still a bit mystified by the Lif-table. I see how it flips up and down, but it seems to me that the length of the U-hinge determines the ratio of bed height to table height. My bench height is 15" at the front edge, with 3" cushions. I'm still experimenting with the table height, but I'm thinking the top of the table will be at or near 27.5". If the table is 3/4" thick, that would require the hinge to swing 11-3/4". So the U-shaped rod would be half that?

I don't know how the Lif-table would match my particular design.

Zep
The vertical reach of the u-shaped rod is 7.25" so it gives you approximately 14.5" difference between bed and table. My seat cushions are gone so I can't be more precise about table height-against seat top, but I think we have about a 28 or 28.5 high table with the Lif-Table.

The lower, or bed, height determines where you place the rod-holders on the interior wall. That distance is fixed by the bed and u-rod. Then when you swing the table up and fasten into the upper table holders, you're raising the table height approximately 14.5"....hope that helps..

As much as I like the Lif-Table I probably wont need it in a few months since I'm changing over to a u-shape for the dinette...
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Old 03-08-2010, 11:01 AM   #38
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Drawers under the benches

We have 3 drawers under the benches....curbside, we have the one that pulls out towards the rear that is accessible by standing outside of the trailer (streetside opposite this drawer is the place for some audio equipment and heat duct and next to that is a smaller cabinet with a fold down door). The other two drawers are on both sides at the front......the work okay without having to lift up the seat cushions.....you can either sit on the bench and pull them out or go under the table.....obviously they are not for the most used things.....but again we have that sliding table top so you can slide the top all the way to one side and have real easy access to the drawers...(a reminder that we have a 1968 which is narrower than 69 models and later).........paula
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Old 03-16-2010, 09:57 PM   #39
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Dinette Table(s)

The finished dinette has two tables, one full length and the other a cantilevered table for two. The short table is very attractive because it allows for the use of the ends of the benches as "open" seating, which is very convenient. The full length table will get a real leg as soon as the varnishing is completed. The panels are made from 1/2" birch plywood with 1" thick by 1-5/16 wide cherry trim. (the wide angle lens makes the short table look less than half the length of the long table. not so. it's 31" wide (including the permanent panel), where the long table is 53-1/2" wide. the short table provides 24" of width for dining, plus a few inches to allow for the armrests. the small permanent panel against the wall is 12-1/4" wide.)

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The two different lengths are made by combining a support structure with two different panels of appropriate length. You can see here how the interchangeable short panel fits to the short permanent piece. The shape of the permanent piece is to allow normal use of the armrests, eg, allow the fingers to drape over the ends without the table being in the way.

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Why not just use two panels of the correct length? Because the storage area behind the seat is only 43" long internally and the table top needs to be 54" in order to provide two 24" table width per diner (48") and allow for the 6" for the armrests. So the long panel is 41-1/2", which can be stored in the bench.

The lower "legs" of the support are the exact length required to support the table top in the bed position. I glued them up from solid oak, trimmed then with a bandsaw and then routed the edges. The two supports are permanently attached via a 1/2" maple strip, which is rabbetted for the table side of the attachement rail. (I disagree with the VTS diagram--I think the rails should be reversed, which the bigger/wider one on the table and the narrow one on the wall.)

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The panels are retained by 4 machine screws into "knife inserts." I use these metal inserts whenever I plan to routinely disassemble something. Brass flat top 1/4-20 machine screws will replace these cadmium screws.

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One note: I thought putting the stringers in the front wall could stiffen it sufficiently. Not so. I'm going to have to put a 1/2" panel across the skin and attach the table to that in order to keep the outer end of the table from wiggling too much.

Zep
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Old 03-17-2010, 11:37 AM   #40
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Very, Very clever. And beautiful as well. I may steal a couple of your ideas.

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Old 03-17-2010, 05:04 PM   #41
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Now that I'm home from work and have time to compose a reasonable question....

How did you attach the cherry to the birch plywood? Did you dowel peg it, glue it, biscuit joint (is that the right terminology?). I really like the way the table turned out.

The other question is about the finish. Do you plan to stain it or just put a protective top coat over the raw wood? What are you using for the finish coat?

Great lookin' work, Zep. You're an artist!

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Old 03-17-2010, 05:15 PM   #42
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I'm going to use Helmsman Spar Varnish, wateproof. It's not quite as fine as MinWax polyurethane, but it looks good enough. It will really bring out increased contrast between the birch and cherry.

The cherry edges are just glued on. I often use biscuits, but I can get a more perfect fit with a closely cut rabbett. The cherry edges are "L" shaped, so there is a flange of cherry underneath the plywood. My fantasy is that this makes the joint stronger. The rabbett in the edge of the cherry has just the right depth to accept the 15/32" plywood flush on top (with a little bit of sanding).

The final product looks simple, but I don't seem to be able to design anything that's simple to put together. Gack. This was a 7-day project, about 4 hours a day.

Zep
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