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Old 08-09-2007, 11:40 PM   #15
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Another issue may be contributing - outrigger floor braces allowing movement which amplifies any of the '4 reasons' stated above....

When I pulled my wraps I was amazed how much damage the outriggers had taken just to be covered up with new sheet aluminum. I had one curbside solid wheel well outrigger just tacked into place by the loose outer bolt - no weld, a cheater sheet-metal screw had stabilized it until they left joe-somewhens repair yard. The flooring and shell there had settled nearly 3/4" - and other outriggers had rusted so badly the entire lower flange had disappeared leaving very little capacity for support... If the outside curve was simply bent I left it, except the one folded up like a pretzel, but in all I needed to replace 7 of them, jacking up the floorings edge in order to get outrigger in true and square.

The interior had a bunch of missing rivets - and partition vertical frames chewing up the aluminum, one pierced it completely, plus some sagging like you pictured. Also look for broken or missing exterior rivets above the door - the flexing can sneak 10's of feet before they find a weak spot. Sorry for more bad news but its another aspect of AS orderly systems falling into chaos over time...
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Old 08-10-2007, 08:06 AM   #16
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I took some pictures, but they didn't turn out. So here is a drawing of where/how the shelf should be fastened to the shell (inside skin) of the coach.

I'm still confused as to exactly where the end panel crack is located. If it is above the fridge then I wouldn't say you have a floor issue. If it is to the side of the fridge, you may have a floor problem.

You realize the cause of this may very well be axle related, as most have suggested. I have provided you with other possibilities, but you should not ignore their advice. If you read post #1 in http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437/old-axle-vs-new-axle-feedback-34690.html , you will see that I have been down the axle-replacement road. You have a 40+ year old TT and regardless of what anyone tells you - it's shot, and needs replaced!

Truth is, if this damage just started within the last couple of years, and the shelf was not supported correctly, then how did it survive the first 38+ years?

If the cause is axle related, and you replace it, you will still have to deal with the damage and related repairs. It may be that my contribution here will mean more to you in this phase.

One thing about it, you will learn a lot about how things are built by having to take it apart for repair. Pay attention to each detail so you can remember how it goes back together.

The shelf is definitely in need of repair. I would remove it to do this, as the separated joint will need to be clamped together after the joint is cleaned, and new glue applied.

In addition to being fastened down the middle of the shelf, as indicated in the attached drawing or described in earlier posts, it should also be fastened on both ends.

Don't be disheartened. Yes, it will cost money, and should not be used until fixed (which bites, I know), but you will be glad you did it in the end. The option of doing nothing is not pretty, and will be a much bigger disappointment to you.
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Old 08-11-2007, 12:41 PM   #17
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no screws!

Thanks again, Spiffy Gem. I really appreciate your expertise and suggestions. We took a really good look at everything yesterday and there are no screws where you indicate they should be. We also checked behind the fridge via the access door and no problem with the floor. I'm guessing the axle is the main problem, but the substandard installation of the overheads hasn't helped matters.

So, we're ramping up the plans for a new axle and my husband has already figured out (with the help of your pictures) how to replace the separated cabinet parts after the new axle is in.

It will be a little while until we can set everything in motion, but I will be sure to post pictures as things come together. We sure love our trailer. Thanks everyone for your kind assistance, and for steering us in the right direction with her repairs.
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Old 08-12-2007, 04:32 PM   #18
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Glad to help!

Another thing here when you go to install the screws, make sure you drill in at an angle: they will hold much better than drilling straight. Try to aim for a rib (you know where the ribs are by looking for a line of rivets going vertical along the wall).

Be careful not to get into any wiring that might be in the wall.

You should only need four screws.
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Old 08-12-2007, 11:28 PM   #19
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running gear

As I was fishing for info, I think ran across a post with a diagram of the suggested angle of the screw. We'll be sure follow your suggestion when we get there. But, first we'll be contacting Andy for info on a new axle .

One last question, can you explain exactly what "running gear" is? I just want to be sure nothing we do (or don't do) is contributing to our trailer problems.
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Old 08-13-2007, 12:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airdrmr
As I was fishing for info, I think ran across a post with a diagram of the suggested angle of the screw. We'll be sure follow your suggestion when we get there. But, first we'll be contacting Andy for info on a new axle .

One last question, can you explain exactly what "running gear" is? I just want to be sure nothing we do (or don't do) is contributing to our trailer problems.
"Running gear" is the tire, wheel, hub and drum as an assembly.

Andy
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:24 AM   #21
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And on a less pure definition, I would also add shocks to that . . . (yea, I know, some debate the need for shocks)
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Old 09-11-2007, 01:02 PM   #22
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Checking for Imbalance of Running Gear

Would it be a dumb idea to put a human in the trailer and go for a spin on a flat open road? You would then be able to detect wheel-hop, bearing noise etc wouldn't you?
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Old 09-11-2007, 04:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard B.
Would it be a dumb idea to put a human in the trailer and go for a spin on a flat open road? You would then be able to detect wheel-hop, bearing noise etc wouldn't you?
a video camera would work too.
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Old 09-12-2007, 01:38 PM   #24
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Lucille Ball would say NO!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard B.
Would it be a dumb idea to put a human in the trailer and go for a spin on a flat open road? You would then be able to detect wheel-hop, bearing noise etc wouldn't you?
Thanks for the suggestion, Richard! I'm having flashes of Lucille Ball's attempt to cook while Desi pulled the trailer in their movie "The Long, Long, Trailer"! I might try a camera, but it's pretty clear to me that the trailer needs some axle and running gear attention . I have a Rosie the Rivetter bobble head doll that I can put in the window while we're driving. That might do the trick too!

Cheers,
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