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Old 04-29-2009, 10:35 PM   #29
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It's certainly a valid consideration. At the same time, I am replacing my original cast iron sinks with stainless steel ones, that weigh perhaps 1/20th as much (if even that much). And, my plastic, on-demand freshwater tank is also substantially lighter than the original, galvanized, pressurized one.

Sure, Airstream did a good job of minimizing weight in their original designs, but some of the more modern options are much, much lighter than anything Airstream considered "back in the day."

Overall, it's a balancing act when performing a renovation or restoration. Weight is added in some places, and reduced in others. Being aware of this at every step is indeed quite important.

-Marcus
Good. I just wanted to be sure that my Airstream friends leave enough safe weight on their axles so not to have to leave a cooler full of 'cold ones' behind.
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Old 04-30-2009, 11:53 AM   #30
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Rivet Fastening your solid surface to the substrate

Don you need to use 100% silicone when fastening the corian to the substrate. All solid surface materials will swell and contract when heated or cooled. In other words they will move on you and there isn't anything you can do about it. Silicone will flex with the movement of the solid surface materials but it won't let loose. Also when you install your range unit into the top you will need to glue on at least a quarter inch thick felt to the side of the opening and then cover it with a self sticky aluminum tape for a radiant barrier. After it is covered hang a strip down from the edge of the opening so it looks like a small curtain around this opening. This is how we have to install for hot pots and ranges in tops for our customers. If you don't do this I guarantee you will hate the outcome if you use your range much.
You can get the aluminum tape from an HVAC dealer and the felt from a craft supply store.

Good luck

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Old 05-05-2009, 08:23 AM   #31
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Its done

I have finished the counter top project and its looks very good. I put in a small backsplash and finished under the front edge with an oak trim. The two small cuts were bonded with the special color matach adhessive and and when sanded its very hard to see where they are joined. My improvised dual plunger calk gun worked fine. Hooked up all of the plumbing and of course it leaked everywhere. Plumbing has not ever been one of my favorite tasks. After tightening the connections to the hot and cold water lines and installing the required fitting in the drain line no more leaks. This has been a time consimimg project and it took a lot longer than expected. Today I am working on getting the trailer ready for our 3 week vacation to Durango. We leave tomorrow. I will take some pictures of the finished project and post the steps along the way once we get settled in Durango.

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Old 05-05-2009, 09:37 AM   #32
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This has been a time consimimg project and it took a lot longer than expected.

Don
Every project takes longer. If we really knew how long it takes, we'd never start anything. The second sink will be faster. Enjoy your sink and Durango.

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Old 05-06-2009, 08:12 PM   #33
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>cover it with a self sticky aluminum tape for a radiant barrier. After it is covered hang a strip down from the edge of the opening so it looks like a small curtain around this opening. This is how we have to install for hot pots and ranges in tops for our customers.<

The stove needs a radient barrier otherwise you can potentially melt the corian.

FWIW There is a special silicone used for counter tops and sink installs. I think from OSI, but it will specifically say "countertops" on it. Not that crappy GE Silicone II you find at the big box stores, which only sticks to your skin.

I have a granite top installation in a few days and I will try and write down the model # of the caulk.

Also to have granite machined it is only like $150 for your slab or remnant, cheap if you ask me. I am sure they would install it as well if you drove the AS over to thier shop.

I would never PL a counter or sink on. But that is me. I use PL mostly for a substitute for Liquid Nails. Both of which should be used sparingly.
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Old 05-08-2009, 02:16 PM   #34
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I work for American Stonecast, which was mentioned in the original post of this thread ( thank you for mentioning us ).

In regards to our sinks, we currently carry a 19 x 33 which is designed to be undermounted ( this has a hard edge at the top inner edge of the bowl for a clean undermount look ), and a 19 x 25 which can be either drop in or undermount ( this has a rounded inner edge ).

We currently have customers that undermount both of these into Corian and laminated surfaces, and they absolutely love the look, and report no problems with mounting or adhesion. Offhand I do not know what type of adhesives they use, but some customers also reinforce them with mounting hardware and ensure the seal with silicone. In 2 years I have not heard of a single adhesion failure.

Also on the issue of weight, our customers are always looking to remove weight from their products, so from a manufacturers view weight is a major factor in the products they install. We are working on new types of counter top surfaces that will be just as strong and durable, if not more so, than current conventional materials, and reduce weight by up to 50%. Although not quite ready for public sales, we expect it to be a huge success in the near future.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:24 PM   #35
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Oh man! That Grani-Light looks sweet! I may be giving you all a call on that sooner than later.
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Old 05-31-2009, 08:28 AM   #36
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Finished

I finally was able to put together some photos of the counter top project. The attached pdf file has the before and after pics with some shots in between. I also re-did my water filter setup and added a slide out drawer for big items under the sink and replaced the small slide out drawers as well. I put in a tile back spash that is mounted on a think peice of Hardy backer board that is attached to the wall. All in all in turned out very well.

Don
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Airstream counter top.pdf (3.85 MB, 24 views)
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:03 AM   #37
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Adonh, that is a really good set of pictures. The counter top looks like it belongs and is trimmed out quite attractive. Our Airstream was equipped with Corian counter tops, and I think that replacing it may be more than I could take on. You have done well.

Is your water filter easy to change out? If you can get two hands on it, the compression fittings look to be a good idea.

Steve
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:18 AM   #38
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Thumbs up

Don,

That really looks good. Love the backsplash, and the black framing. You be given an extra rivet.

Kevin
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:12 PM   #39
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Don, that's one terrific looking result.
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Old 05-31-2009, 01:22 PM   #40
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Great job!
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Old 05-31-2009, 03:27 PM   #41
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It looks great. The pictures explained something I had never realized—I thought undermount meant gluing the sink to the bottom of the countertop, but what I see is mounting it on a plywood under-countertop and then putting the visible countertop on top of that.

I would be more likely to try it when I do a tile countertop someday. The nice thing about tile, I won't have to be perfect in cutting out the backerboard because tile and thinset solve most all mistakes. The kitchen is ready for a redo, but we keep spending money on Airstream travels and silly things like food, medications, clothes, electricity, etc.

Gene
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Old 05-31-2009, 03:49 PM   #42
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Is your water filter easy to change out? Steve
Yes it is easy to get to and change the filter, there are 2 connection, one at each end that you pull out and the filer comes right out. There is also a hose with the same connections as he filter that you can use for winterizing with the pink stuff.

I am going to make 2 sink covers out of the same corian type material with a cutting board mounted on the underside cut to fit the sink opening as soon as I can get to it. The sinks are good and deep but sill leave storage rome under them.

Don
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