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Old 02-21-2003, 12:26 PM   #1
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New Countertop

I am installing new countertop. This is the beast after the original counter is removed.
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Old 02-21-2003, 01:25 PM   #2
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smily,

Will you be doing it just like the old but in a different color? I want to do the same but keep all the original trim and backsplash details. I have even thought about changing the color, maybe using epoxy or similar paint. Mine has the harvest gold color formica, in good shape, just the wrong color. I do need a new sink, for some reason mine has a hole corroded through it, maybe a nice and shiny olympic rivet will do the trick!!

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Old 02-21-2003, 01:30 PM   #3
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in with the new

I did cut out the new countertop just like the original. I bought a nice pice of prefabricated countertop with backspalsh for less than 50 dollars.

The new countertop was not as wide as original so I had to get a little creative with the backsplash.

HD sold the matching laminate in small pieces to trim up the cut areas.

I am making a dining table using matching laminate. very affordable.

Smily
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Old 02-21-2003, 01:35 PM   #4
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When I did mine....

I removed the whole countertop and peeled the laminate off. It was very easy to remove. We didn't like the yellow color of the original. We purchased new laminate at Lowes. Photos are in my album at the photo site.
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Old 02-21-2003, 01:39 PM   #5
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laminate prices

I have found that laminate by itself is expensive. for some wierd reason, it seems that you can buy prefabricated countertop for as much or less than ther price of laminte that you will have to cut, glue and edge.

Sometimes you have to buy laminate only, when you are doing restoration work, such as Pick has done.

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Old 02-21-2003, 01:42 PM   #6
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Ken, I paid $39.95 for the laminate, and the adhesive was $8, then $12 for the roller, and $15 for the laminate trimming tool for the router, which I had already.
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Old 02-21-2003, 03:05 PM   #7
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When I did the counters in my Argosy, which by the way was a much simpler design, I also was able to peel the old laminate off and reapply the new. The tricky thing on the one in my Overlander is the way they have the laminate rolled up at the back for the backsplash. I have never tried to do that, which I guess requires a heated rod or something. I probably wouldn't put a prefab hardware store top in it, but that is just my opinion. aren't they real heavy?

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Old 02-21-2003, 04:44 PM   #8
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Ok you laminating folks...I just bought a Dremel tool to use to route the laminate edges and do a counter top in my kitchen. I have done lots of projects but never worked with laminate. How about some tips on how to route the edges so they come together ok? If I do well I'd like to make a new top for my fold out rv dinette table, although I have the two matching tables that go with it, aso I would have to try to match the laminate as closely as I can. I appreciate any tips you might offer.
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Old 02-21-2003, 04:52 PM   #9
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"I probably wouldn't put a prefab hardware store top in it, but that is just my opinion. aren't they real heavy?"

I used a prefab counter in my remodel (see my photos). The factory counter was made of laminate over plywood which was a bit thinner than the new particle board counter, so the replacement was heavier. However, by the time I cut out the hole for the sink and stove there was not a lot left! The end result is that the replacement counter is only a pound or two heavier.

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Old 02-21-2003, 06:22 PM   #10
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Comparison

I know that this is biased but as Pick has identified, he has purchased several items to do the restoration. All of the items listed certainly imply fabrication, (time consuming and subject to human error.

I have laminated countertops and had a great amount of satisfaction that came from that but I still store the cutting tool, a half a can of adhesive, a router, a roller........ and I still have the human induced flaws.

The truth is that if you have a countertop or surface that is not typical, then you will have to buy laminate and cut the laminate, glue both surfaces, route the edges and hope that your measuremants are precise.

If you have an area that will accomodate a factory countertop, then I believe that the two pounds is an impact that the trailer can stand.

Yes the countertop is heavier but it is due to the fact that the original countertop is really just not quite the quality of todays countertops. I have my original to compare and it is quite literally "flimsy"

A note to the fella thinking about laminating, a router makes all of the difference. If you want that factory edge, only a router will do it. ( I have seen some craftsman, that laminate every day, do it with there old timer pocket knife).

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Old 02-21-2003, 07:09 PM   #11
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I just installed a Brass countertop in the bambi today. With it polish out it looks .
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Old 02-21-2003, 09:13 PM   #12
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Granite

Ok, I'm typing this for the third and last time, everytime I have hit submit my pic has been too big and I've lost my whole message. I' ll learn.

Anyways, as I was saying, I have recently installed granite countertops which I am sure will have the thing listing noticeably
Seriously a friend does tilework for a living and talked me into letting him do it. He did it for a buddy price as long as I take him on a couple of buddy trips . I think they look great and along with the new laminate floor have really taken her up a couple of notches. Fantastic Fan just came in yesterday, so that will be next.
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Old 02-21-2003, 09:18 PM   #13
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Thumbs up wow

dave

thats nice!

no more worrys about setting a hot pan down!

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Old 02-21-2003, 09:24 PM   #14
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also

We made a new plywood base with 3/4 (maybe it was 5/8) using the old as a template. Instead of using a cement backer board we used this thin flexible material that has indentions on both sides to hold thinset mortar. It is thinner, lighter and more flexible. the project required 14 12" pieces of granite. Here is a pic of the new base and a piece of the material that was used as a base.
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