Locker removal for bunk?

[Splinter]

Would like to remove back, upper lockers to possible make a bunk bed. If I want to remove the lockers, what problems am I looking at? Do they come down easily? Will there be big holes? Has anyone done this and have pics? Thanks for any advice.

[WineStream]

I have a bunk in my '74. Mine is mounted low enough that I didn't need to remove the locker. But, I had to replace my lockers. Not too bad, really. Might be tougher on your earlier trailer, though. Just search for the hidden screws.

-sent from the Airforums mobile app

[Splinter]

Thanks Winestream. Sometime if you have a chance, wondering what is your distance between upper and lower bunk? Anyone know what is standard to be comfortable? Can't go lower because of wheel well.

[Skatiero]

The lockers are usually held in with some large rivets and a long metal cleat, at least on many years. You drill out the rivets and take the cabinet down, then the cleat, then fill the old holes with rivets. We have built several sets of bunks. The more space in between, the better, since their usefulness as anything besides actual sleeping spaces diminishes the closer they are together and they became more like submarine bunks. However, they are still useful for sleeping even when very close together-- ask any sailor! We are currently building new bunks in our 1986 Excella. We have build both fixed and hinged bunks before. The main thing to be careful of when building new is not to suspend any parts from the ceiling ribs unless yours came that way from the factory. There are lots of options to hold the bunks up using the walls and floor so that's not a problem.

[Splinter]

Thanks Skatiero.
This is the side I am most concerned about. It attaches to the bathroom wall. There is space between wall and pocket door. Looks like it can just be unscrewed, but wondering if I start unscrewing it will something drop from behind (like a nut or fastener) and won't be able to screw back if I want to. Anyone know what I am getting into? Second pic is just a close up.

[InsideOut]

Looks like a standard wood screw - shouldn't have any nuts that will drop behind. There really isn't much "behind" the panels - they are basically just solid plywood sheets.

After you take the screw out - you can plug the hole with a dowel & stain it to match.

The other holes to patch are going to be at the vinyl clad ceiling & walls - those are best patched by just putting a rivet in them - then leaving them aluminum or finding a paint that matches the vinyl wallcovering.

Shari

[Splinter]

Thanks for the info InsideOut - Thats what I was hoping about the screws. Can re-attach to bathroom wall if needed.

Here are some more pics:
Pic 1. Top of locker is free of ceiling.
Pic 2. Right side. Hose is from AC.
Pic 3. Back of right side screwed in from other side of kitchen wall.
Pic 4. Center. Looks like I could just leave aluminum track if ever wanted to put lockers back?