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Old 11-13-2017, 07:26 AM   #1
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Is a cabinet reconfirguration possible?

HI . . . looking for some expert advice. I am remodeling a 2003 30' classic and the back bedroom had an overhead and two side cabinets. To open it up, I would like to just keep the overhead cabinet and expand it horizontally to the wall. I found that when I removed the side vertical cabinets, that they were bearing most the weight of the upper cabinet and that it is very heavy. Because the back is not finished on the interior, I am not sure how I would even attach the sides of the upper cabinet to the walls. It doesn't seem secure enough.

Any advice is appreciated!
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Old 11-13-2017, 12:38 PM   #2
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Is a cabinet reconfirguration possible?

You could run supports up at the ends of the shelf and bridge the middle. (Or attach cleats to the end walls and bridge the middle)

Now that I see your photo, I say cleats on each end wall, with a piece of wood spanning the width of the shelf, screwed together through the bottom of the existing shelf to keep the new support from bowing.

I use 3/4” thick birch plywood ripped into 1 1/2 strips for my structure, it’s cheap, stable, and very effective.

Cleats screwed to the walls, even if just the aluminum skin, will stay quite well if they are held tight to the wall by the rest of the structure.
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Old 11-13-2017, 05:36 PM   #3
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Thanks so much! So, even with the partial interior skin, you think it would be secure enough? That was one concern...it didn't have full aluminum inside, so I would be attaching it like 2" below an edge. I am probably paranoid!
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Old 11-13-2017, 05:45 PM   #4
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Thanks so much! So, even with the partial interior skin, you think it would be secure enough? That was one concern...it didn't have full aluminum inside, so I would be attaching it like 2" below an edge. I am probably paranoid!


Without putting eyes on it I can’t say for sure, but I think it will work, especially if you back the cleat with another piece of wood, sandwiching the aluminum in between the two.

In fact, I put a shelf in the front of my trailer without the end cap in place, so my shelf is installed a lot like I am recommending to you, except that I paneled my trailer with 1/4” plywood.
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Old 11-13-2017, 06:18 PM   #5
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For this shelf I just screwed the ends of the long board to the walls with a sheet metal bracket. I used three pieces of wood turned different directions to keep it from bowing.

It is very sturdy.
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Old 11-14-2017, 10:51 AM   #6
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Are you needing the cabinet to stay in place to match the existing woodwork? I kinda guess not, in that you're asking about adding on to it... Anyway, I built my storage out of 1/4" Eurolite plywood, with a 3/4" X 2 1/2" piece of cherry to support it on the outer edge. The cabinet faces are 1/4" panels with 1/2" edge pieces laminated on to bring them up to 3/4", for hinges and latches. I supported it on the edges, with 1/4" wall cleats and small L-brackets. Additional brackets were used on the fixed middle section.

So far, it's worked out just fine, as I use it for spare bedding, soft coolers and day packs. I would say that thinking super-light when you rebuild is in order!
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:18 PM   #7
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Is a cabinet reconfirguration possible?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr View Post
Are you needing the cabinet to stay in place to match the existing woodwork? I kinda guess not, in that you're asking about adding on to it... Anyway, I built my storage out of 1/4" Eurolite plywood, with a 3/4" X 2 1/2" piece of cherry to support it on the outer edge. The cabinet faces are 1/4" panels with 1/2" edge pieces laminated on to bring them up to 3/4", for hinges and latches. I supported it on the edges, with 1/4" wall cleats and small L-brackets. Additional brackets were used on the fixed middle section.



So far, it's worked out just fine, as I use it for spare bedding, soft coolers and day packs. I would say that thinking super-light when you rebuild is in order!


Nice work!

I have found that screwing fixtures to the inner skin has worked out very well, no problems in about four years. But I have always built in such away that the pieces I add on are “captive” and structured, not just “hanging on”

My view is that if the OP spans the entire width of the trailer, with cleats on either side of the aluminum skin, the shelf unit will hold with no problem.
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Old 11-14-2017, 02:31 PM   #8
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:05 AM   #9
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Wow! Amazing work you two and thanks so much for the guidance. I really appreciate it.

I don't need the cabinet to match anything, but I wanted to use what I have and just add onto the ends. The cabinet is heavy and also houses the breaker box, so I really didn't want to disturb it much. Electricity make me nervous.

I am going to take your ideas and go back and reevaluate. Thanks again!
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:46 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Whigmi View Post
Wow! Amazing work you two and thanks so much for the guidance. I really appreciate it.

I don't need the cabinet to match anything, but I wanted to use what I have and just add onto the ends. The cabinet is heavy and also houses the breaker box, so I really didn't want to disturb it much. Electricity make me nervous.

I am going to take your ideas and go back and reevaluate. Thanks again!
Thanks! Just from my own personal experience, the times that I've decided to save something, and just "add a bit on", have worked out to take far more time and look worse than if I'd just gotten rid of it in the first place. You can always let the electrical dangle while you build around it, just make sure that the wires are clamped off properly as they go into the box.

Hopefully you can lay hands on some large pieces of cardboard to make *exact* templates of the curve, it's a toughie. Putting the doors at the ends makes for easy use of the cabinet, I don't have to climb on the bed to get stuff out that's shifted to the back. I made my cabinet bigger than stock: it's 18" tall in the middle.
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Old 11-15-2017, 07:30 PM   #11
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Thanks! Just from my own personal experience, the times that I've decided to save something, and just "add a bit on", have worked out to take far more time and look worse than if I'd just gotten rid of it in the first place. You can always let the electrical dangle while you build around it, just make sure that the wires are clamped off properly as they go into the box.



Hopefully you can lay hands on some large pieces of cardboard to make *exact* templates of the curve, it's a toughie. Putting the doors at the ends makes for easy use of the cabinet, I don't have to climb on the bed to get stuff out that's shifted to the back. I made my cabinet bigger than stock: it's 18" tall in the middle.


It is easier to start over as far as I am concerned....
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Old 11-15-2017, 10:31 PM   #12
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It is easier to start over as far as I am concerned....


But I use a lot of stuff over too.
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Old 11-17-2017, 04:27 PM   #13
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Thanks again! I appreciate it!

Actually, my thinking was to cut down the vertical cabinets that were there and just stick them in there. I don't think I am skilled enough to build something from scratch.
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Old Yesterday, 11:27 AM   #14
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Thanks again! I appreciate it!



Actually, my thinking was to cut down the vertical cabinets that were there and just stick them in there. I don't think I am skilled enough to build something from scratch.


A person can surprise himself when he sets his mind to think something through and just does it. Whether you start over or make the existing cabinet work, know that you can accomplish a good end and make it happen.

The cool thing is how you can change things til you get your Airstream the way you want it. I have done LOTS of things in my trailer that I had already done, and I still have a big redo project ahead. Sometimes “good enough” is good for a while, sometimes for a long while. The goal is to have fun streaming.... and as soon as possible in my book.
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