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Old 10-23-2014, 05:51 AM   #21
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Another fix for loose screws and cabinet doors opening. As for the screws, if the hole is elongated wood filler such as DAP should be used first as it can be drilled and re-tapped. Then and for those holes not elongated use a dab of silicone in the hole, it will dry to hold the screw, but remain flexible enough to remove the screw if needed. Wood glue dries to hard and could tear the wood if removal is needed. A simple and temporary fix for cabinet doors opening on the road is a few strips of blue painters tape with low tack adhesive when towing. Worked great for me with a new 23 FC on a 1900 mile trip. Nothing fancy but quick to apply before leaving and a snap to remove after arriving.
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:58 AM   #22
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Had my one cupboard door shake off when travelling west on I-94 in either MN or WI because there is not enough "blacktop" put on over the concrete I drove these highways in a transport truck from 1985 till 2010 and they would shake everything loose in the cab that wasn't really secure!
Thanks for the info about piano hinges had thought about trying them glad to see they work !
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:07 AM   #23
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"Diz ſagent uns die wîſen, ein nagel behalt ein îſen, ein îſen ein ros, ein ros ein man, ein man ein burc, der ſtrîten kan"; The wise tell us that a nail keeps a shoe, a shoe (keeps) a horse, a horse (keeps) a knight (or man), a knight, who can fight, (keeps) a castle (c. 1230, Freidank)

A fine old proverb. No connection to Napoleon.
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Old 10-23-2014, 08:14 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bev1940 View Post
Had my one cupboard door shake off when travelling west on I-94 in either MN or WI because there is not enough "blacktop" put on over the concrete
If they're using blacktop over concrete, it's no wonder. The proper way to repair concrete is to chip out the bad concrete and pour new concrete. Asphalt (AKA blacktop) on top of concrete is only a short-term shortcut fix.

Sorry. I can't help it. I'm still an engineer, and it makes me wince to see poorly-engineered anything
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:42 AM   #25
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I've had success with using brass threaded inserts that screw into the enlarged hole. The inserts themselves are threaded to accept standard machine screws and are available in assorted sizes. I've been getting them at Lowe's but they can also be ordered through Rockler.
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:55 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Denis4x4 View Post
Easiest way to keep screws in place is to get a handful of wooden golf tees and insert them in the existing holes with a dab of glue and break or cut them off flush.
You can also just dip a wooden toothpick, or two for a larger hole, dip them in a good wood glue and use them the same as the golf tees.

also, any kind of standard, cheap fingernail polish works just about as good as Locktite. You can get it anywhere, and may even have some on board already if there's a female in the vicinity.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:54 AM   #27
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I'm popping this thread back up. One of my undersink curved doors came off on one of our last trips and a piece of the door where the hinge hole came off. Has anyone found a filler or epoxy that will adhere to these foam doors? Tried to gorilla glue it but there appears to be a leverage problem because of the missing piece. 
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Old 09-28-2018, 06:12 AM   #28
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We had a closet door come off with in 2 hours of ownership on our way to first camp site. top two hinges came off because the locking latch screws came loose. The factory should have used this system in the first place a T-nut with a mechanical screw plus Locktite.

this video shows how they are installed (it is a larger seize for the video demonstration).

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...8&&FORM=VDRVRV

Another solution is a wood threaded insert.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...F&&FORM=VDRVRV
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