I'm about to put some brushed stainless backsplash panels in my Argosy kitchen area. Hope this isn't heresy, but I don't want any rivets showing on these panels. I've replaced the rivets in the existing wall panels with flush ones, and my intention is to glue the stainless right over the aluminum.
What kind of glue should I use for this? Contact cement is out, since I have to slide the panels a little to position them on the wall. I'm thinking I'll use paneling adhesive and apply some pressure until the glue dries. Any group experience with this kind of installation?
What kind of glue should I use for this? Contact cement is out, since I have to slide the panels a little to position them on the wall. I'm thinking I'll use paneling adhesive and apply some pressure until the glue dries. Any group experience with this kind of installation?
Tub and Surround adhesive from a caulk tube, spread evenly with a grooved trowel?
I have a thread somewhere with pictures of my kitchen with stainless steel backsplash. Look for " Mandolin Daves new kitchen " They used screws with
plastic washers. Decorative stainless steel caps, snap on to the washer to hide the screw.
Mandolindave
Last edited by mandolindave; 11-30-2004 at 06:34 AM.
Reason: Added link...
Wow, Dave, that's some kitchen! Mine will be a bit more subtle, since I'm using just the brushed stainless. But I'm pretty well set on the fastener-less look. Hey, there's enough rivets left to satisfy me, and anyway, I just added a bunch more. When I installed my Tundra fridge, I removed the old fridge chimney and rooftop vent. A rectangular patch with radiused corners covers the hole, held on by about 33 Olympics.
The Tub and Surround Adhesive is one form of what I was calling paneling adhesive. There are so many flavors of this stuff I never know exactly which one to buy. Does the T&SA have exceptional grip? And does it work on metal and painted surfaces?
JB Weld, huh? I guess I think of that more for smaller jobs. although mixing whole tubes at a time wouldn't be that difficult. My only concern would be its ability to withstand some flexing - it does set very hard. I suspect a dab every 4 inches or so would give plenty of adhesion with adequate flexibility.
The Tub and Surround Adhesive is one form of what I was calling paneling adhesive. There are so many flavors of this stuff I never know exactly which one to buy. Does the T&SA have exceptional grip? And does it work on metal and painted surfaces?
Bob
I've been planning to use Liquid Nails for Tub and Shower Surrounds when I do mine. It holds up well in steamy hot conditions, and I'd hope it would hold up to some flexing... Is does grip VERY well.
Where did you get your brushed stainless I am interested in doing the same thing and haqve difficulty finding the sheet material.
I got my brushed stainless at my local Metal Supermarkets store. I believe what I got is 22 gauge, a little thicker that I really wanted, but it does seem quite durable. Any thinner would be easy to dent.
I used 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant to install mine, and it is a permanent installation. Because there's no way to clamp it while the adhesive sets, I also put a few pop rivets around the edges where they'll be hidden by the trim. The project is still not finished, but I've already gotten a lot of compliments on the look. The oven is stainless, and I've ordered a stainless vent hood. I'm also thinking of putting a stainless panel on the fridge to complete the look.
Contact cement is easy to work with and you can move your piece at will.
Simply place a sheet of news paper between the two surfaces.
Slide or move the working piece into position and when you have it where you want it, slide the newspaper out.
Cabinet makers do this all of the time. They too are often faced with manipulating large sheets of laminate and they avoid instant contact byu using newspaper.
Smily
__________________ Ken Smillie
My 1994 36' Classic MH is for sale See it in the classifieds
I would love to see pictures of your project, my wife wants to do the same thing. She likes the look of the new mdls with the aluminum backsplash and wants to do the same in a 97 34' classic.
keep us posted as to how it is going.
Rick
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcneon
I got my brushed stainless at my local Metal Supermarkets store. I believe what I got is 22 gauge, a little thicker that I really wanted, but it does seem quite durable. Any thinner would be easy to dent.
I used 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant to install mine, and it is a permanent installation. Because there's no way to clamp it while the adhesive sets, I also put a few pop rivets around the edges where they'll be hidden by the trim. The project is still not finished, but I've already gotten a lot of compliments on the look. The oven is stainless, and I've ordered a stainless vent hood. I'm also thinking of putting a stainless panel on the fridge to complete the look.
Rick, welcome to the forum! I'm always glad to see a new Missourian join in. How long have you had your classic? Ours is a '95 and is 30' long. I agree-the aluminum backsplash and trim would update and brighten up the interiors of these trailers. I'm really not fond of the design-imprinted paneling that is original to the kitchen and bath areas. Keep us posted if you decide to do this. We'll be watching and taking notes!
__________________ maxandgeorgia 1995 Airstream Classic Limited 30' ~ Gypsy Chev Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison, 4X4, Crew Cab WBCCI #5013 AIR #2908 WDCU Go, Mizzou...Tigers on the prowl!
Missouri? Did someone say Missouri? Greetings from the western side of the state!
I showed my husband the steel panels. He liked them. No surprise there, he likes shiny things...anybody want to bet our project becomes refurbish rather than restore? I really like the steel panels too!
Has anyone tackled a stainless bath? I want to do this but keep getting warned about the weight. I want a SS floor, shower and counter so that I can have a wet bath. Has anyone experienced this? Should I use Alum instead?
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