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mcneon · 09-15-2004, 06:22 PM

I'm about to put some brushed stainless backsplash panels in my Argosy kitchen area. Hope this isn't heresy, but I don't want any rivets showing on these panels. I've replaced the rivets in the existing wall panels with flush ones, and my intention is to glue the stainless right over the aluminum.

What kind of glue should I use for this? Contact cement is out, since I have to slide the panels a little to position them on the wall. I'm thinking I'll use paneling adhesive and apply some pressure until the glue dries. Any group experience with this kind of installation?

Bob McKeown
Nashville, TN "Titan Town"

74Argosy24MH · 09-15-2004, 07:29 PM

JB Weld

John

dbtolman · 09-15-2004, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcneon

What kind of glue should I use for this? Contact cement is out, since I have to slide the panels a little to position them on the wall. I'm thinking I'll use paneling adhesive and apply some pressure until the glue dries. Any group experience with this kind of installation?

Tub and Surround adhesive from a caulk tube, spread evenly with a grooved trowel?

mandolindave · 09-15-2004, 08:16 PM

I have a thread somewhere with pictures of my kitchen with stainless steel backsplash. Look for " Mandolin Daves new kitchen " They used screws with
plastic washers. Decorative stainless steel caps, snap on to the washer to hide the screw.
Mandolindave

mcneon · 09-15-2004, 10:17 PM

Wow, Dave, that's some kitchen! Mine will be a bit more subtle, since I'm using just the brushed stainless. But I'm pretty well set on the fastener-less look. Hey, there's enough rivets left to satisfy me, and anyway, I just added a bunch more. When I installed my Tundra fridge, I removed the old fridge chimney and rooftop vent. A rectangular patch with radiused corners covers the hole, held on by about 33 Olympics.

The Tub and Surround Adhesive is one form of what I was calling paneling adhesive. There are so many flavors of this stuff I never know exactly which one to buy. Does the T&SA have exceptional grip? And does it work on metal and painted surfaces?

JB Weld, huh? I guess I think of that more for smaller jobs. although mixing whole tubes at a time wouldn't be that difficult. My only concern would be its ability to withstand some flexing - it does set very hard. I suspect a dab every 4 inches or so would give plenty of adhesion with adequate flexibility.

Bob

dbtolman · 09-16-2004, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcneon

The Tub and Surround Adhesive is one form of what I was calling paneling adhesive. There are so many flavors of this stuff I never know exactly which one to buy. Does the T&SA have exceptional grip? And does it work on metal and painted surfaces?

Bob

I've been planning to use Liquid Nails for Tub and Shower Surrounds when I do mine. It holds up well in steamy hot conditions, and I'd hope it would hold up to some flexing... Is does grip VERY well.

59toaster · 09-17-2004, 07:06 AM

Vulkem but it has a long dry time. Once its stuck it's there.

rlambs · 11-28-2004, 07:05 PM

Where did you get your brushed stainless I am interested in doing the same thing and haqve difficulty finding the sheet material.

Thanks

mcneon · 11-28-2004, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rlambs

Where did you get your brushed stainless I am interested in doing the same thing and haqve difficulty finding the sheet material.

I got my brushed stainless at my local Metal Supermarkets store. I believe what I got is 22 gauge, a little thicker that I really wanted, but it does seem quite durable. Any thinner would be easy to dent.

I used 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant to install mine, and it is a permanent installation. Because there's no way to clamp it while the adhesive sets, I also put a few pop rivets around the edges where they'll be hidden by the trim. The project is still not finished, but I've already gotten a lot of compliments on the look. The oven is stainless, and I've ordered a stainless vent hood. I'm also thinking of putting a stainless panel on the fridge to complete the look.

Bob

smily · 11-29-2004, 09:27 AM

Contact cement is easy to work with and you can move your piece at will.
Simply place a sheet of news paper between the two surfaces.
Slide or move the working piece into position and when you have it where you want it, slide the newspaper out.

Cabinet makers do this all of the time. They too are often faced with manipulating large sheets of laminate and they avoid instant contact byu using newspaper.
Smily

rlambs · 11-30-2004, 05:06 AM

I would love to see pictures of your project, my wife wants to do the same thing. She likes the look of the new mdls with the aluminum backsplash and wants to do the same in a 97 34' classic.

keep us posted as to how it is going.

Rick

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcneon

I got my brushed stainless at my local Metal Supermarkets store. I believe what I got is 22 gauge, a little thicker that I really wanted, but it does seem quite durable. Any thinner would be easy to dent.

I used 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant to install mine, and it is a permanent installation. Because there's no way to clamp it while the adhesive sets, I also put a few pop rivets around the edges where they'll be hidden by the trim. The project is still not finished, but I've already gotten a lot of compliments on the look. The oven is stainless, and I've ordered a stainless vent hood. I'm also thinking of putting a stainless panel on the fridge to complete the look.

Bob

maxandgeorgia · 11-30-2004, 05:16 PM

Rick, welcome to the forum! I'm always glad to see a new Missourian join in. How long have you had your classic? Ours is a '95 and is 30' long. I agree-the aluminum backsplash and trim would update and brighten up the interiors of these trailers. I'm really not fond of the design-imprinted paneling that is original to the kitchen and bath areas. Keep us posted if you decide to do this. We'll be watching and taking notes!

eljay · 11-30-2004, 05:31 PM

Missouri? Did someone say Missouri? Greetings from the western side of the state!

I showed my husband the steel panels. He liked them. No surprise there, he likes shiny things...anybody want to bet our project becomes refurbish rather than restore? I really like the steel panels too!

albert · 06-28-2005, 11:14 PM

Has anyone tackled a stainless bath? I want to do this but keep getting warned about the weight. I want a SS floor, shower and counter so that I can have a wet bath. Has anyone experienced this? Should I use Alum instead?

Craig T · 11-23-2005, 08:55 AM

I have plans for a stainless shower. I ordered 24 ga SS. Sample panels were not too heavy and could span the banana wrap areas in the corners. I don't think denting will be a problem. The lower four feet of the shower will have an aluminum backer panel (inner skin). I was looking through this thread for an aluminum/SS adhesive suggestion since I want the lower four feet of the shower to have no seams and rivets along the bottom and top of the SS panel only.

albert · 11-23-2005, 09:31 AM

I just finished my bath in SS, it looks great, i need to get some photos of it and post them. Hopefully soon.

john hd · 11-23-2005, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

I just finished my bath in SS, it looks great, i need to get some photos of it and post them. Hopefully soon.

good deal albert!

can't wait to see what you did! btw, tristan sez hi!

john

Foiled Again · 11-23-2005, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by albert

Has anyone tackled a stainless bath? I want to do this but keep getting warned about the weight. I want a SS floor, shower and counter so that I can have a wet bath. Has anyone experienced this? Should I use Alum instead?

I wouldn't appreciate a stainless steel bath in the least! One, stainless steel isn't THAT stainless - especially when it comes to water spotting. It would look gorgeous until you used it one time, then it would become a never ending battle to keep it looking even passable. And if you get into a campground with any iron in the water the problem will get about 10 times worse. Look at any six month old stainless steel sink next to a new one and you'll talk yourself right out of that idea.

Oh, and maybe it's just me, but if I wake up in the middle of the night and want to take a quick comfort stop, the last thing I want my feet to feel is ice cold stainless steel on my little feetsies. Talk about an unpleasant wake-up call. (With a wet bath, you'll only forget to wipe down the toilet seat ONE time after you shower. Talk about wide awake, freezing your ass off!)

If you want a corner wet bath (like in my 22ft CCD) ...order a standard fiberglass one from Airstream. You could even have a tub refinisher trick it out in burgundy, deep forest green... or for a truly retro look "Mamie Pink" or "Swimming Pool Aqua", and don't forget you could always go for that 70's look with Avacado, Harvest Gold or Orange!

They haven't changed the back or side curves in 50 years... so put a new corner or side bath in your old unit. An RV Bath as a fashion statement? Naw, it's a warm place to....

Spend the money where it shows; put in leather upholstery, etc.

Just my 2 cents, Tin Lizzie

Craig T · 11-23-2005, 03:46 PM

I can't wait to see pics Albert!

Craig T · 03-11-2006, 10:10 PM

Albert, any progress pics? I'm getting close to finishing the stainless shower in my SOB. Now, from experience I can say that stainless is a real pain in the @%* to work with compared to aluminum.