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Old 11-23-2005, 09:55 AM   #15
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I have plans for a stainless shower. I ordered 24 ga SS. Sample panels were not too heavy and could span the banana wrap areas in the corners. I don't think denting will be a problem. The lower four feet of the shower will have an aluminum backer panel (inner skin). I was looking through this thread for an aluminum/SS adhesive suggestion since I want the lower four feet of the shower to have no seams and rivets along the bottom and top of the SS panel only.
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:31 AM   #16
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SS bath

I just finished my bath in SS, it looks great, i need to get some photos of it and post them. Hopefully soon.
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by albert
I just finished my bath in SS, it looks great, i need to get some photos of it and post them. Hopefully soon.
good deal albert!

can't wait to see what you did! btw, tristan sez hi!

john
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:29 PM   #18
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If I were your wife....

Quote:
Originally Posted by albert
Has anyone tackled a stainless bath? I want to do this but keep getting warned about the weight. I want a SS floor, shower and counter so that I can have a wet bath. Has anyone experienced this? Should I use Alum instead?
I wouldn't appreciate a stainless steel bath in the least! One, stainless steel isn't THAT stainless - especially when it comes to water spotting. It would look gorgeous until you used it one time, then it would become a never ending battle to keep it looking even passable. And if you get into a campground with any iron in the water the problem will get about 10 times worse. Look at any six month old stainless steel sink next to a new one and you'll talk yourself right out of that idea.

Oh, and maybe it's just me, but if I wake up in the middle of the night and want to take a quick comfort stop, the last thing I want my feet to feel is ice cold stainless steel on my little feetsies. Talk about an unpleasant wake-up call. (With a wet bath, you'll only forget to wipe down the toilet seat ONE time after you shower. Talk about wide awake, freezing your ass off!)

If you want a corner wet bath (like in my 22ft CCD) ...order a standard fiberglass one from Airstream. You could even have a tub refinisher trick it out in burgundy, deep forest green... or for a truly retro look "Mamie Pink" or "Swimming Pool Aqua", and don't forget you could always go for that 70's look with Avacado, Harvest Gold or Orange!

They haven't changed the back or side curves in 50 years... so put a new corner or side bath in your old unit. An RV Bath as a fashion statement? Naw, it's a warm place to....

Spend the money where it shows; put in leather upholstery, etc.

Just my 2 cents, Tin Lizzie
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Old 11-23-2005, 04:46 PM   #19
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I can't wait to see pics Albert!
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Old 03-11-2006, 11:10 PM   #20
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Albert, any progress pics? I'm getting close to finishing the stainless shower in my SOB. Now, from experience I can say that stainless is a real pain in the @%* to work with compared to aluminum.
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:59 PM   #21
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If you want a corner wet bath (like in my 22ft CCD) ...order a standard fiberglass one from Airstream. Tin Lizzie
Has anyone done this? The current rear corner wet bath would actually interfere with the larger rear windows on an older unit. I was thinking about doing this some time ago but couldn't think of a good solution for the window. I suppose you could just render your rear window inoperable.

I also wonder how much that wet bath would cost from Airstream...

-T
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Old 03-12-2006, 03:52 PM   #22
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Yes I have all but finished the bath. It looks great, I have a little trim work to do which isnt going to be easy. I will get out there and take some pictures this week. it is packed away for the winter, up here in Tahoe it isnt the warmest enviro to work on the trailer in the winter. buti am itching to get going again this spring, laying bamboo floors, etc. Pictures to come...
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Old 03-22-2006, 03:21 PM   #23
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Stainless Steel

Has anyone used paint to simulate stainless steel? Or is this too tacky? I love the stainless look and want to do it right, but it appears there are a lot of obstacles.
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:02 AM   #24
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Having used JB Weld, I don't think you want anything that permanant. If is adhears properly, (clean surfaces are critical) you will need a torch if you ever need to remove it. If it doesen't, it will just fall off anyway. I made handmade kaleidoscopes for a few years and used contact adhesive to attache wood veneers to brass tubes. 3M Vinyl Trim Adhesive is available at car parts stores and comes in yellow and black. I used black because it was less visible at the butt joints of the veneer, but either would work for you. You can clean up or delaminate with lacquer thinner.
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Old 04-13-2007, 11:28 AM   #25
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Stainless steel cleaning tip.

I have a stainless steel kitchen in my Argosy (sink, stove ,fridge, backspash )
I was at a friends house who had a stainless steel appliances in their kithen.
And they said that they clean their stainless with olive oil and leave a thin layer of oil on the surfaces. They say it cleans great and resists fingerprints. I haven't tried it yet though. I heard some of the
comercial products use silicon and Armorall type substaces. ( I don't want to be breathing chemicals.
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Old 04-13-2007, 05:48 PM   #26
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Mcneon,I allready did that. Mounted as a back splash behind the range area.I used "liquid nails".It worked fine,just make sure the s/s is slightly bent,as the wall is curved.You may have to use a little caulking around the edge,just to make it blend in better.
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