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Old 01-20-2011, 10:42 AM   #15
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I built the base (box) of the seats in the shop (where it's warm) then carried each to the trailer. I used a Kreg pocket screw system to fasten it together and attach it to the floor.
The height of the platform for the cushions will depend on the thickness of your cushions. The table height is 30", typically there is 12" to 13" of space between the bottom of the table and the top of the seat. Keep in mind that the cushions compress.
The frames that are visible on the end and under the table are built with a frame of 3/4" Oak with a maple insert (panel). I cut a Dado in the edge of the frame would that holds the panel in place, the panel is not glued in, it is free to float as the temperature and humidity changes. The back side of the box is made from 1/2" plywood (exterior glue) with a 1x2 along the top edge for the seat bottom to rest on. The front of the box has a 1x2 cleat on the inside edge, the seat bottom rests on that cleat. The cleat is set at a height that will give you the lip to hold the cushion in place. The front edge and visible end of the box are higher than the back edges, look closely at the photo and you can see this.
As I mentioned earlier; when the table is down, the dimensions of the bed are 42"x76". The table is 30" wide and each of the seat bottoms is 23" deep. 23"+30"+23"=76". I had the seat cushions made 24"x42", that way when you put them in place they are compressed slightly to hold them in place behind the lip. The seat cushions are 5" thick; the back cushions are 15"x42", one half of the width of the table.
I cut the plywood that covers the tank and supports the seat over the tank, then assembled it in place. There is a shelf below the window on the front of the trailer as well as a shelf behind each seat back. Since the wall is curved, I matched the shelf to the curve using the (carpenters pencil and pattern method) I showed you in another post. I covered the front wall below the shelf with a sheet of white fiberglass as well as the top surface of the shelf. It makes it easier to keep clean.
Where is the closest Home Depot? Canon City?
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by InsideOut View Post
The typical slant for dinette (& chair) backs is 12.5%...that's what we built in to ours.

Shari
Thanks! 12.5% sounds much more comfortable.

And thanks for the info on your web site giving me a place where I can get the T-molding to go around the edge of the table. Did you get the mill finish, the polished or satin finish? That is exactly what I'm looking for since the galley counter has the metal edge instead of formica edge. I couldn't find it on the Outwater site so I went to the Tape Ease site and they have all sorts of good stuff! What would we do without the Internet?

Does this stuff bend around the corners of the table easily?

Lindy
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:56 PM   #17
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Where is the closest Home Depot? Canon City?

Thanks for all the measurements. That is really helpful.

The closest Home Depot is in Canon City (2 hours away) and it is a tiny little store. It didn't have everything I needed so I have to special order the plywood from the lumber yard in Poncha Springs. The ride to Canon was really scary this morning - if you're familiar with the road you know it is very curvy and follows the Arkansas River. Today it was icy and snow packed. Dumb that we didn't check conditions before we started out but it was nice in Saguache!
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:59 PM   #18
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Did you get the mill finish, the polished or satin finish?
For the fluted "T" moulding in our '64 GT we got the polished finish. Another option we used in our '56 Safari is a screw on type trim. We got it at VTS and it's a satin finish.
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Does this stuff bend around the corners of the table easily?
As far as "bending around the corners", the VTS flat screw on type moulding bends real easy. The fluted "T" type we used a saw and cut away the "T" part on the back that fits in the groove behind the part that curves...then it bends easily too.

It's just a matter of deciding which look you prefer...we like them both.

The only other thing to note is, with the "T" type, you have to route a groove in the edge of the countertop for it to slip into...we have a friend that had that router bit so we didn't have to buy it for a one time use...as I recall, it wasn't cheap.

Shari
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:02 PM   #19
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...if you're familiar with the road you know it is very curvy and follows the Arkansas River. Today it was icy and snow packed. Dumb that we didn't check conditions before we started out but it was nice in Saguache!
I am familiar with it... I'm sure it was gorgeous though!

Shari
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:52 PM   #20
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Slick Roads

I've been over Poncha Pass several times. I lived in the mountains near Conifer, Co for 35 years. Had a friend who farmed in the San Luis Valley, went there to help him out on occasion. Here's a website you might be interested in. Colorado Web Cams You can see live shots of the road conditions in Colorado. It has Canon City itself but not Hwy 50 or Poncha Pass. Wolf Creek and Monarch Pass are a couple others.
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Old 01-22-2011, 09:23 AM   #21
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What to do?

I've been having a problem with how to figure out sizes of things - Here's my dilemma:

The width of the trailer is 85". I wanted my streetside bench to connect to the galley cabinet which is 24" (and have a smooth transition - not stick out). That's ok since the benches need to be 24". However, if I make the bench on the curbside 24" then that means my table will be 37" - which seems kind of wide.

So, what would look best? To have the 37" x 36" table and the benches 24" off the wall (and even with the galley cabinet) or to bring the benches out 3.5" on either side so that the table is more "normal" size at 30 inches? Another option (my husband hates it when I come up with lots of different options) would be to have the streetside bench be even with the galley cabinet and add the difference behind the curbside bench which would put the table off-center.

What to do, what to do? I LIKE options so give me more!

Lindy

Oh, and yes, the canyon road was absolutely breathtaking with all the ice on the trees and snow on the ground. Really magical...
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Old 01-22-2011, 10:53 AM   #22
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Off-center centerpieces (like tables) look terrible. They slowly drive me insane. I would wake up every morning and curse the fact that I didn't center it.

I understand the desire for streamlines, especially in small places like trailers. Why don't you challenge yourself and curve the streetside booth out away from the galley counter so the edges aren't right angles but you get the table centered?

Regarding the table size - it's been my experience when camping that you never have enough table space. The floor gets dirty from tracking the outside in, and there's always one more thing you want to set down so you can use your hands to do something else but never enough counter or table space. 37"x36" does seem a little large, but you might end up being thankful for the extra surface area.

If you cut the table shorter, center it, and bring out the booths 4", I doubt you'll ever see that 4" that the booth sticks out farther than the galley counter. Keep in mind the booth is recessed, so even if it sticks out a little at shin-level, the majority of the counter (the cabinet face and the counter top) will appear that it recesses into the empty space of the booth.

I love that idea of the table on the door that someone else posted.

Good luck! Post photos!
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:17 AM   #23
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Quote:
Regarding the table size - it's been my experience when camping that you never have enough table space. The floor gets dirty from tracking the outside in, and there's always one more thing you want to set down so you can use your hands to do something else but never enough counter or table space. 37"x36" does seem a little large, but you might end up being thankful for the extra surface area.
This was my thought as well. You would be able to sit opposite someone and still have room for serving bowls, a computer, books, etc between you. I wouldn't shave the table size based on "normal".
My 2 cents.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:28 AM   #24
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I centered the table in the trailer and built the seat boxes so they accomodate the 24" cushions (refer to my previous post). When you factor in the additional width of the seatback supports there should not be that much space left. With a 76" long bed; 23" seat+30" table +23" seat, that only leaves 9". When you build the seat back supports they will take at least 6" of the remaining 9"; 3" on each side.
I would assume you measured across the trailer just to the right of the door opening. I don't know how far forward you will build the seat, but I would assume that the table will be fastened to the front wall. You must take into consideration the curved corners in the front.
Look closely at the pics I posted and you will see the seat bottoms are longer than the seat backs. This is because of the corners. When the cushions are in place it is not visible. the seat back cushions are the same width as the seat bottom cushions.
If you make the table wider than 30", you will have to make the adjustment to the seat cushion dimensions as well as the seat back cushion dimensions to be able to make the bed up without spaces between the cushions or at one end.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:51 AM   #25
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Here is another pic. If I remember right my trailer is 89" between the walls, just to the right of the door. So I had 13" of total space difference.
As you can see, with the seat back supports there is not much left. The shelf behind each seat back is only about 4" wide at the widest point and gets narrower going forward. I wish I had better photos to show you, but this id the best I can do.
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Old 01-22-2011, 12:18 PM   #26
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Here is a thread about Pizzachop's dinette conversion. It has dimensions that may help you out. Browse his photos, he has a number of related pics.
Hope it's helpful.
Dave

Dinette frame - Here are the dimensions of the frame. Used 3/4" birch plywood, notched and interlocked perpendicularly Photo Gallery
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:19 PM   #27
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Why don't you challenge yourself and curve the streetside booth out away from the galley counter so the edges aren't right angles but you get the table centered?
Yeah, right. CURVE WOOD??? I'm doing good to get a square corner, much less a curve! I like the idea but am not sure I can do it. Want to give some instructions? I'm a willing student. Building stuff is really hard for me - give me a good electrical or plumbing problem any day over trying to build something.

But! We are making progress - and maybe I'll have enough done to post pictures tomorrow.

And did you know that NOTHING in an airstream is straight or square???
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Old 01-23-2011, 05:18 PM   #28
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Quote:
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Hi Lindy,

Here's a link to some sliding door tracks:

4 Foot Plastic Sliding Door Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Chris
I used similar tracks, however was I was able to buy tracks that went one piece from side to side.

I built the framework so that both the upper and lower tracks are trapped in place by the trim on the front of the unit. neither track is held in place by anything else. The upper track is held up by the doors in which they are sliding. If for any reason I want to remove the doors, I remove half a dozen screws and take the trim off and the doors, track and all, fall out forward.

As I said in an earlier post, the construction went very fast. What I didn't say was that the planning and measuring went on and on. By the time I actually started construction, everything was planned to the last screw.

As far as moving the water tank, the dinette is for two people. The tank is no problem. Also, the fill is in the front just over the tank, and the plumbing was all in the right place and done. Why mess.
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