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Old 10-02-2011, 09:02 PM   #1
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How to attach aluminum backsplash

I am installing clear coated aluminum as a backsplash in my bathroom just like in the galley. The sides and top will be captured behind the walls and mirror cabinet respectively.
My question is how to secure it to the paneling so it will follow the curve of the wall and be stable enough so caulk will adhere well along the countertop/backsplash interface.
Do I use adhesive, screws, or something else?

The galley doesn't seem to have any mechanical mounting at all???????
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:22 PM   #2
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I'm about to do the same. I figure the loctite construction adhesive will work well. Trowel the bead down and use a laminate roller. Don't see how that would move anywhere.
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:36 PM   #3
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Does it remain somewhat flexible. I gotta believe there's some flexing and movement while traveling?
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:01 PM   #4
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In my opinion it shouldn't go anywhere. For some extra security I will probably end up putting a rivet or screw in some hidden spots. In my trailer it didn't take much to take the counter top off. Then you can have all four sides behind another surface. No way it will move.
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:54 PM   #5
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Classic Ride's DIY series' .
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:05 PM   #6
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contact cement. spray two even coats on each surface allow to dry. place 6 mil plastic or thicker in between. Contact cement will not stick to the plastic allowing you the luxury of seeing where you are and properly placing the material. Gradually you work the plastic down behind the material. Work down the middle and toward each side a little at a time.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:20 PM   #7
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Jeez, the DIY guys just used construction adhesive. It takes a while to set, so you can still move the metal around, but is a lot simpler. The rivets ensure that nothing is going to go anywhere.
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:30 AM   #8
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Why not do as Airstream does? Use a few rivets.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:13 AM   #9
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I want to do something similar, but was thinking about stainless square/ diamond pattern you see in old diners. Does anyone know a source?

Looking at the video I am guessing this material is easier to work with. Where can I get it?

I am also thinking about re-skining my door. What type of aluminum should I get? and do you know a source?
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:58 AM   #10
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Why not do as Airstream does? Use a few rivets.
There are no rivets in my galley. The overhead cabinets, spice rack, levels monitor, ac outlet, cupboard, window frame are all the mechanical attachments through the back splash. That is what makes me think there must be some adheasive there. Also, in the bath, I would be riveting through the wallboard as well as the interior skin. Is that an issue?
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Old 10-03-2011, 08:04 AM   #11
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In my opinion it shouldn't go anywhere. For some extra security I will probably end up putting a rivet or screw in some hidden spots. In my trailer it didn't take much to take the counter top off. Then you can have all four sides behind another surface. No way it will move.
Duh...I didn't even think about capturing behind the countertop. That's probably all I need to keep it in place. The space is only 11" tall X 43" wide.
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Old 10-03-2011, 09:39 AM   #12
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<snip>Also, in the bath, I would be riveting through the wallboard as well as the interior skin. Is that an issue?
We used full height stainless steel sheets in our wet bath on the backside of the wallboards. We used solvent-based contact cement to adhere the two together and tucked the edges in the trim along the wall. We also used stainless steel acorn nuts to attach the towel bar and sink on one wall (behind the dinette) and a few below the cabinet height of our kitchen on the other wall so you can't see them from the outside of the bathroom - all you see is wood. All of the rivet/screw, pipe, drain penetrations & edges were sealed with Vulkem - our bathroom is water tight. The curved exterior walls are just sprayed with the AIM Zolatone (as like the rest of the trailer) - it's an epoxy-like finsh that seals the joints & rivets in the aluminum.

The reason we used stainless steel rather than aluminum is that it is much easier to keep clean because the aluminum would oxidize from all the moisture in the shower.

Some pics of our bath under construction can be seen in post #369

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Old 10-03-2011, 10:01 AM   #13
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I want to do something similar, but was thinking about stainless square/ diamond pattern you see in old diners. Does anyone know a source?
The metal stamped sheets are prone to denting and, once dented, are impossible to repair. You can buy at HD plastic sheets that are practically indestructable and impossible to tell from the real thing. There are edge strips available

I used them as a splash for the wall above the sink at the end of my galley counter and to cover damage on the microwave cabinet. Apply them with double-sided tape. I also used the sheets as the insert on my new refrigerator.

HD stocks a limited number of patterns and colors, but you can order a wide variety from the brochures they have at the display.
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Old 10-03-2011, 12:11 PM   #14
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John, I am thinking of putting that on our curved outside wall. I did something similar to yours on the side wall (at this thread) with stainless. But I want something better that contact paper but more flexible that the stainless. Looks like the ticket. Here is what we have now (but everything is reattached ):
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Old 10-03-2011, 01:44 PM   #15
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What about 3m VHB tape. I bought some but have not used it yet. Search Google for it and watch some of the videos. If it does what it claims it can do then I am going to use it a lot on my trailer.
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Old 10-03-2011, 03:04 PM   #16
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John, I am thinking of putting that on our curved outside wall.
It will take a gentle curve such as your wall in one plane very nicely. There are several styles that have no raised ribs that would curve more tightly.

I didn't show my refrigerator front, but just about everyone who tours the trailer comments on it.
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Old 10-03-2011, 03:51 PM   #17
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I put Mine up In 2 pieces as that is what I had. I riveted along the seam mimicking the belt line on some trailers. Picture has a lot of flash glare but You can see most of the rivets. The lapped seam is upside down that just was the way it worked out with some damage to one of the pieces I needed to hide.
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:31 PM   #18
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I used the Vulcum same as the original skin panels
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Old 10-03-2011, 05:52 PM   #19
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Also, in the bath, I would be riveting through the wallboard as well as the interior skin. Is that an issue?
I missed that part. Oops. Good thing you didn't take my advice and start riveting for all you were worth, it could have been--messy...
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:15 PM   #20
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Fridge face

Here is a shot of my refrigerator face with the plastic replica stamped aluminum. The sheets are affixed with double-sided tape and black plastic screen spline is tucked in around the periphery to adjust for the lack of thickness compared to the Dometic panels.
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