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rlindberg · 03-17-2009, 06:14 AM

We just got our first AS (1966 Overlander) and the woodwork looks pretty good, but I'd like any suggestions on how to make it look the best without full refinishing. I've done nothing but furniture polish so far. Is there a cleaning/sealing process that would help? Oils? Polishes? Basically, I want to have a nice look without complete refinishing.

Thanks In Advance!

Randy Lindberg

danalee · 03-17-2009, 06:31 AM

Depending on the color of your cabinets you can mix shoe polish with butchers wax and buff them really pretty. I did this in my 65 AS. I washed them first with vinegar water to get rid of some mold and general grimeIf you have scratches or worn places you can use a little stain on a qtip first.

silverleeper · 03-17-2009, 07:11 AM

Congratulations on your 66 Overlander. Take a look a this thread HERE. It has a few touch up tips.

DEITZ645 · 03-17-2009, 07:48 AM

Silverleeper,
Sometimes a good cleaning and then a lemon oil rub down is enough to invigorate the finish.

silverleeper · 03-17-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEITZ645

Silverleeper,
Sometimes a good cleaning and then a lemon oil rub down is enough to invigorate the finish.

Lemon oil and a good cleaning could be the key. I think thats brought up in post#8 on the thread link I posted. I'm just trying to give different options. I'm a hands on person so without seeing and touching I hesitate to just give one method.

InsideOut · 03-17-2009, 08:48 AM

We were real happy using Howard's Restor-a-Finish and Feed-n-Wax

on our '64 cabinets which were in great shape, just very dry...easy to use, and smells good! We do a "once over" with the Feed-n-Wax each spring ~

Shari

BWH-Utah · 03-31-2009, 06:01 PM

This stuff has long been a favorite of mine.
I have used it on my '65 Safari's cabinets, worked great.
I applied it with a small (2" by 3") scotch-bright-pad, that way you can do a little scrubbing/sanding while you are applying it. Then wipe the surface with a rag to remove any material that got removed by the sanding action.
You can put on several coats, changing colors to get the final look you want.
Later coats can be applied with a rag, with no wiping clean needed if you put on thin coats.
If the wood ever gets scuffed, just wipe on another coat.
It is very easy to use, very forgiving, nothing tricky at all.
"Watco Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish."

Woody.303 · 04-29-2009, 10:46 AM

The factory recommends using the Danish Oil.

Woody

airstream66 · 04-29-2009, 01:38 PM

Our cabinets were a little faded and dry as well on our '66. The Restor-a-Finish brought back alot of its rich color. It looks like it faded over the winter a little. I might try the lemon oil and see if it holds up better, or maybe the feed-n-wax to seal it up.

Bluto · 04-29-2009, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BWH-Utah

This stuff has long been a favorite of mine.
I have used it on my '65 Safari's cabinets, worked great.
I applied it with a small (2" by 3") scotch-bright-pad, that way you can do a little scrubbing/sanding while you are applying it. Then wipe the surface with a rag to remove any material that got removed by the sanding action.
You can put on several coats, changing colors to get the final look you want.
Later coats can be applied with a rag, with no wiping clean needed if you put on thin coats.
If the wood ever gets scuffed, just wipe on another coat.
It is very easy to use, very forgiving, nothing tricky at all.
"Watco Danish Oil penetrates deep into wood pores to protect from within and to enhance the natural look and feel of the wood. It creates the rich, warm glow of a traditional hand-rubbed finish."

Where do you purchase it? I'd like to get some and try it.

VIKING · 04-29-2009, 03:20 PM

The Watco oil is the same material as tung oil but has less solids. If you want to restore the shine more permanently try tung oil in semi-gloss. wipe on, let it dry. use 0000 steel wool between the last coat and the one before it to knock down any bumps or rough spots. Tung oil will build faster than watco type finishes so you probably will need only two or three treatments max.
Anything with wax in it will eventually cause your woodwork to darken. Especially if you use it over and over, and it will have to be throughly removed if you ever re-coat with any other kind of finish at all. I generally don't recommend it. Tung oil can be re-done over and over if you want to refresh the woodwork now and then. It will build up a more protective finish with continued re-coating.
Old English Scratch Cover is a great product for covering scratches and unifying the color. It comes in different colors depending on your wood color.

Good luck, Rich

BWH-Utah · 04-30-2009, 12:46 PM

Bluto, Watco Danish-oil-finish is available at lots of places like Home Depot or Ace Hardware. Watco is a subsidiary of RUST-OLEUM, which by the way, is my favorite paint.

Viking is correct, Tung-oil has more solids.
Tung-oil will put more of a surface coating on the wood. Where as Danish-oil-finish is more of a penetrating finish that leaves the surface looking like natural unfinished wood. I like Tung-oil, it is easy to apply with a rag and gives a very nice looking finish. It’s all a question of whether you want the wood to look naked or lightly covered. Both can be beautiful looking. Other considerations, what was the original finish like? Do you care? Tung-oil will give a more durable finish, less affected by stains and scratches. But it has a slightly different look. Do you want your wood to wear a bikini or a light T-shirt? Just try to steer clear of the heavy winter overcoat (thick polyurethane). And please don’t ever sequester it behind lock and key in a windowless enclosure (paint). You can always top coat a Danish-oil-finish with Tung-oil if you find that the bikini isn’t quite enough. Just wipe the Tung-oil on with a soft cloth and let it dry. Tung-oil and Danish-oil-finish are both very easy to apply.
BWH

Bluto · 04-30-2009, 10:21 PM

This is some good info. The wood in my trailer has the original finish on it but some places look rough and have an uneven or brittle feel sort of like when a finish or top coat is dried out. I'll lightly sand the cabinets with a wad of 000 steel wool or just use a scotch pad as mentioned earlier with the Watco first and see what happens. Does this stuff need to be thinned out? What do you use as a thinner? I have a ton of other small projects to get done first, but this is definately on the list of must do's. Thank you!

AIR-Quarius · 04-30-2009, 10:33 PM

You can also try minwax clear polyurethane that will soak in and revive the original color of the wood work and will leave a varnished look to it...dries very quickly - low oder,use staight out of the can...last a long time . they have minwax in a silver quart can (10.00) at Wallyworld...I mean Walmart...

VIKING · 05-01-2009, 03:17 PM

Bluto, You don't thin Watco or tung oil. They are very thin already. Watco will tend to lift deteriorated finishes where tung oil will help hold them in place. The clear polyurethane mentioned by RedhawkerII can be thinned to soak in better. It will leave a shiny surface that I find shows defects more than a satin sheen will. I prefer Formby's tung oil in satin sheen, or any tung oil in satin, or semi gloss if you like a little bit more shine to it.
Rich

Bluto · 05-02-2009, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VIKING

Bluto, You don't thin Watco or tung oil. They are very thin already. Watco will tend to lift deteriorated finishes where tung oil will help hold them in place. The clear polyurethane mentioned by RedhawkerII can be thinned to soak in better. It will leave a shiny surface that I find shows defects more than a satin sheen will. I prefer Formby's tung oil in satin sheen, or any tung oil in satin, or semi gloss if you like a little bit more shine to it.
Rich

Thanks!

Bluto · 08-06-2014, 08:38 AM

So as not to confuse anyone reading this post now, in 2014. Any questions I asked above in the posts were refering to an older 1987 trailer I had at that time. Since I now have a more recent model and don't have the same problems with the finish on the wood.
I doubt if the info in the earlier posts would work with the finishes AS now uses in the Classic, although, I really don't know. I'd hate for anyone to use the oils on a newer trailer and possibly ruin the finish.
If anyone knows, please post the info.

Lily&Me · 08-06-2014, 09:11 AM

You know, I have used the last couple of years products to restore and revive the finish on the woodwork in the Interstate.

Currently, Rejuvenate Cabinet & Furniture Restorer and Protectant. Have done some touchup, first, with cherry stain, in areas near the floor that have seen a bit of stress.

Has worked beautifully. Makes them look brand new, and I think protects some from the elements they are exposed to.

Maggie

Bluto · 08-06-2014, 11:39 PM

Thanks Maggie, that's good to hear.

MtnCamper07 · 02-27-2015, 03:17 PM

I use the Danish oil on both my bed (made of teak) and the cabinets in my TT. If the wood is really dry, you may need a second coat. Here in the mountains is can be very dry over the winter months, so it is often necessary to do this twice in the spring and then again in the fall. Oiling the wood is how it was done for centuries and is less likely to cause anyone with allergies problems once applied. I believe the process is also more controllable and will allow you to get just the right look.