help with refinishing cabinets

yaakman · 09-04-2002, 07:17 AM

Hi everyone. I just purchased a 65 safari which has solid wood cabinets either walnut or mahogany I am not sure which. It apppears there is no finish on them other then oil. They are dried out and need refinishing. I assume I just need to re oil them with Watco danish oil. Does anybody have any experience with this that could give me some recommendations. Thanks

InsideOut · 09-04-2002, 11:55 AM

We have a '64 with a similar finish, although our cabinets are oak. We used Howards "Restore-A-Finish" and then maintain it with the "Feed-N-Wax" which is an orange oil & beeswax product.

We are very happy with the results and it's a natural finish that smells good.

I have also seen cabinets refinished with the Watco Danish Oil with good results, but the odor would bother me.

Shari

P.S. I have a link on our webpage showing the products used and links to additional product information. Check out the "Cabinets" section under "During"

mkeith54 · 09-04-2002, 12:04 PM

I like the watco oil finsh also. But, first I use boiled linseed oil and wipe the wood liberally (let it soak in) and follow with watco oil finish. Be sure to smell the oil's before you start as the odor does linger for a while (eventually it goes away) leave teh window open for venting.

Mike

Rog0525 · 09-04-2002, 04:46 PM

I used tung oil on all the woodwork in my '60 Overlander. Looks as good as new now and was very easy to apply. I'll be posting pics of my finished project soon.

j54mark · 09-04-2002, 05:00 PM

I have just done some of the woodwork in my 86 Sovereign, and I used my favorite varnish mix - 50% Watco Natural Danish Oil, and 50% Varthane Gloss polyurethane (although any good varnish will do).

You will want your wood as clean as possible first. If it truly is just an oil finish you can wipe it down with turpentine. Apply the varnish mix with a cloth, keeping the excess wiped off as you go. Allow to dry throughly, apply at least one additional coat, sanding first with 400 or 600 wet or dry paper. Rub down the final coat with a cloth a minute or so after applying the final coat. Dust is not much of a problem, as it will just rub out.

This gives a finish that is not as "dull" looking as a straight oil finish, can be wiped down with any usual cleaner, and scratches can be touched up anytime by just wiping on some more, and looks very professional. The polyurethane will give the wood protection from water (although it will NOT be waterPROOF). For more shine, use a higher percentage of polyurethane to the oil. For less, use more oil.

Open all the windows and vents

I have only been using this varnish for about 15 years, so cannot personally vouch for its longevity, but as far as I can tell it should last roughly forever.

Mark

Rog0525 · 09-04-2002, 09:09 PM

These are pics before and after the tung oil. The other suggestions in this thread might be better but I like tung oil because it is inexpensive, easy to apply, fills minor scratches, maintains the natural appearance and is an effective water barrier.
And after all, beauty is in the eye of the beerholder.

niftypkg · 09-05-2002, 08:34 PM

You guys are putting me on. Ain't got no wood!!! Just this compo board and tambour doors. Looks very durable and there are absolutely no scratches on it. It's a 1971 INt. Any thing I should do with it?? Be nice.
Tom

Larry Brown · 09-05-2002, 08:49 PM

Try a can or two of old Engilsh 800 than Try some old english furniture polish.The stuff works pretty well on fake wood grain stuff. tongue oil works great for lots of other things but it might take a couple of beers to get rig of the taste.

Rog0525 · 09-05-2002, 09:13 PM

With proper ventilation and correct mixture, I didn't have a problem with the smell.
The mix that worked for me was 72 ounces of Bud Lite per 1 pint of tung oil.

yaakman · 09-06-2002, 07:01 AM

thanks for all of your replies. I thinnk I will experiment with tung oil and watco on the inside of a cabinet. One last question. Has anyone used the watco rejuvenating oil only?