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Old 10-14-2009, 03:46 PM   #1
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1978 31' Sovereign
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Cracks in overhead bins.

Any suggestions on repairing hairline cracks in vinyl covered aluminum skin of the overhead bins? These are typically at the corners of the tambour doors.
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:17 PM   #2
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I have had the same cracks in a newer unit with wood framed cabinets.

I removed the cabinet, easy with the crack as a relief, and while supporting the skin so the crack is as closed as possible fiberglass the back side of the skin. Rough up the surface with 80 grit paper and apply resin then fiberglass.

Mine have held for 2 years.

The problem I had was getting the cabinet back in the hole once it was closed up. My cabinets was sheet metal fitted with a wood frame. I had to cut the ends of the cabinet to allow it to be collapsed enough to fit back in the hole. Once in and screwed back in place I cut 1/4 ply end caps to fit inside the cabinet ends to cover the cut metal.
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:20 PM   #3
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A picture of the repaired crack.

If you enlarge the picture you can see the crack was close to 2 ins. long
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:22 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Birdwell57 View Post
Any suggestions on repairing hairline cracks in vinyl covered aluminum skin of the overhead bins? These are typically at the corners of the tambour doors.
The cause of those cracks, is severe vibration.

One or more of the following will contribute to that vibration.

Excessive rated tow vehicle.
Excessive rated torsion bars.
Unbalanced running gear.
Bad shocks.
Trailer bottoming out.

Andy
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:46 PM   #5
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The cause of those cracks, is severe vibration.

One or more of the following will contribute to that vibration.

Excessive rated tow vehicle.
Excessive rated torsion bars.
Unbalanced running gear.
Bad shocks.
Trailer bottoming out.

Andy
I have a spot that is like this - but not really near the cabinet. I remember reading a post from you saying you knew the cause of the ceiling damage (I think you called it punch) but didn't state the reasons. I intended to ask you but kept forgetting. Now I know! When I acquired my AS, the axles were "shot" (your description) and I replaced them. The shocks were newly replaced with OEM. The torsion bars are questionable at 800 lbs - but I can see some flex. It's one of the items on my list to research further. My TV is a 1/2 ton 2000 Yukon. Hope there's no more damage in the future!!!

Cool to see the fiberglass repair - but, for now, I just ignore my damage.

Laura
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:59 PM   #6
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On our 18 day voyage in June/July, we found the upper cabinet over the dinette at the rear of our 27FB had pulled away from the frame of the trailer. The dealer in Davenport IA did a temporary fix but we ultimately took it to Jackson Center where they removed the entire cabinet and did a permanent fix.
I'm not so sure about the excessive vibration on our particular unit as we're pulling with an F150 with WD hitch (750# bars) and a 'not overly stiff' suspension. We pull with very little loaded in the trailer (basically food stuffs). Don't carry water.
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The cause of those cracks, is severe vibration.

One or more of the following will contribute to that vibration.

Excessive rated tow vehicle.
Excessive rated torsion bars.
Unbalanced running gear.
Bad shocks.
Trailer bottoming out.

Andy
What would be considered an excessive rated tow vehicle for a '78 Sovereign? I am also in the middle of a shell off renovation, and plan on waiting to weigh the final result before replacing the axles, wise?
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:39 PM   #8
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What would be considered an excessive rated tow vehicle for a '78 Sovereign? I am also in the middle of a shell off renovation, and plan on waiting to weigh the final result before replacing the axles, wise?
Dually's

1 ton trucks

3/4 ton trucks with heavy duty everything

3/4 ton trucks with stiff suspension.

4 X 4 anything

1/2 ton trucks with overload springs.

When the trailer is hooked up to the tow vehicle, ready to hit the road, there is a very easy test a person can do.

Hop up on the coupler and bounce up and down. If that area doesn't move vertically a couple of inches or more, then something in the setup, has an excessive rating, that simply sends all the road shock, thru it's suspension, or setup, to the trailer.

Airstreams must have a soft ride. When that ride becomes rough, things start to fail or fall apart.

Some owners add to that with unbalanced running gear, bad shocks, and less than acceptable suspension softness.

Adding all that together, will in short order, start digging into a persons bank account, and is not covered by warranty or insurance.

Keep in mind, many years ago, larger cars very successfully towed Airstream's everywhere.

Now, all of a sudden, the general feeling seems to be that they "MUST" have a tow vehicle, that could tow the Queen Mary.

What a waste of equipment, and "MONEY".

Andy
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