I am having sticker shock! Please give me some feedback. I am having the cabinets and dinette built into my 25' Tradewind. We are completely replacing the cabinets around the stove and sink on one side. This will include a counter top of course. On the other side we are replacing the cabinetry surrounding the fridge (it is a the taller style) and the pantry right next to it. The pantry will have slide outs. We are also building a dinette with storage benches. When I say 'we' I mean I am paying to have this done. My friend the cabinet maker just gave me an estimate of around $2000 for labor. Does that seem to be within reason? Having never done this before, I really have no idea. This is a long time friend of mine, so I am not worried that he would try to screw me... maybe as he says it is the 'complexity' that will make it take lots of time and drive up the cost.
I'm in process of doing the same thing. $2000 for a professional build and install sounds good to me. My research shows I will spend about $1400 on materials alone. Good Luck.
Tom and Gary, I should clarify. The $2000 is labor only. Does that change anyones opinion? We have estimated around $300 for the maple and maple ply, drawer glides etc. I have not factored in the counter top materials yet, because I can't decide! Any thoughts here?
Ask him about how many hours of work it will take for each section?
Then figure the hourly rate
Hi Bob, I will ask if that is how he got to the $2000. So lets say each of the three sections cost me $700. If he spent 20 hours on each section, that would be $35/hour. Is that a reasonable amount of time? and rate?
The $2000 sounds reasonable for the labor to me too....the curves & uniqueness of the interior is a challenge...even for the pros. The $300 for materials seems light...unless he is getting the materials from wholesale suppliers or may be using up some stock from his shop.
I would just be sure the new cabinets are built light-weight like the existing ones and don't add too much weight to the trailer. If you look at the cabinets in vintage trailers, the plywood and frames are smaller/lighter weight than "normal" cabinets - it may seem flimsy to a pro, but the added weight could create problems down the road for you.
Shari
__________________ Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008 WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005) AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
Hello Pam,Something you may want to consider,As inside out mentioned is weight.Talk to the cabinetmaker about some of the companys that make extruded aluminum drawer boxes to size.They are very nice and lightweight.When I rework our safari that is probably what I will go with.If your 74's interior is like our 71 replacing existing with hard maple will quad the weight.Just some food for thought.Good day Pam,If you need any info on this product let me know.Robert
Thanks Shari, He will be using plywood mostly. Solid maple on the cabinet doors and drawers... I hope this will be okay! Pam
If it's 3/16-1/4" plywood with very light framing it should be okay. All I'm suggesting is to compare what you are taking out with what you are putting in...for example - our cabinets do not have backs, so they are much lighter than a "box-style" traditional cabinet. Also, the door fronts are light weight plywood, not solid hardwood. The newer trailers are built to handle these heavy weights (axles) but the older ones weren't.
Shari
__________________ Vintage Airstream Club - Past President 2007/2008 WBCCI #1824 - DenCO Unit Past President (2005) AIR #30 - Join Date: 2-25-2002
If it's 3/16-1/4" plywood with very light framing it should be okay. All I'm suggesting is to compare what you are taking out with what you are putting in...for example - our cabinets do not have backs, so they are much lighter than a "box-style" traditional cabinet. Also, the door fronts are light weight plywood, not solid hardwood. The newer trailers are built to handle these heavy weights (axles) but the older ones weren't.
Shari
Shari, He will be using the old frames as templates... without backs. We had originally planned to use maple plywood for the door fronts. I can't remember how we got to solid maple... I guess we should reconsider. We are also replacing the gaucho in the front with a dinette. I was thinking this would end up being lighter.
Robert, maybe I should consider the aluminum drawer boxes. Do you have a company name?
And another question... does anyone have good ideas for door and drawer lathches? I want the door fronts to have a 'clean line' look. Is there something that latches inside like Tot Locks? Those are latches that lock when you push them shut and a magnet held in front releases the lock. Those are close to what I would like, but I can't imagine having to locate a magnet everytime I want to open something.
Thank you everyone for the discussion. Pam
I just became a 3 Rivet Member with this posting!!!
These work great and add some degree of security as well. I am sure your cabinetmaker probably knows about these. You cannot see them from the outside. Once you get the dimension insilation is easy. They a lock and unlock easy as pie and they are not too expensive they work for drawers or doors. I've been using them for years. Mostly for people who have Rugrats. They can be sent to be locked or unlocked. Just by changing the position of the bail on the back of the lock.
I am redoing a 1975 31' Sovereign...quoted $4,000 to redo all cabinets and credenza from the galley forward...some specialty stuff included such as built in Convection micro and some fancy new drawers...sounded good to me...I know the guys work is great!
Quick Links
Say no to Lawrence Welk attitudes
Hybrid Mode
