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Old 03-17-2007, 09:55 AM   #15
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I am redoing a 1975 31' Sovereign...quoted $4,000 to redo all cabinets and credenza from the galley forward...some specialty stuff included such as built in Convection micro and some fancy new drawers...sounded good to me...I know the guys work is great!

G
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:07 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmorris
I am redoing a 1975 31' Sovereign...quoted $4,000 to redo all cabinets and credenza from the galley forward...some specialty stuff included such as built in Convection micro and some fancy new drawers...sounded good to me...I know the guys work is great!

G
G, how about some pics of your redo. I am looking for good ideas to procede with mine. How long did it take him? Did he take it to his shop or work on it at your place? I have my own cabinet shop and will start this Spring with my redo.
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Old 03-17-2007, 10:52 AM   #17
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I am in the process of a taking out all the old cabinetsand redoing all of the plumbing at this point...as soon as I do that I am taking it to his place for the install.

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Old 03-17-2007, 11:03 AM   #18
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Thanks Shari, He will be using plywood mostly. Solid maple on the cabinet doors and drawers... I hope this will be okay! Pam
If it's 3/16-1/4" plywood with very light framing it should be okay. All I'm suggesting is to compare what you are taking out with what you are putting in...for example - our cabinets do not have backs, so they are much lighter than a "box-style" traditional cabinet. Also, the door fronts are light weight plywood, not solid hardwood. The newer trailers are built to handle these heavy weights (axles) but the older ones weren't.

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Old 03-17-2007, 12:12 PM   #19
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If it's 3/16-1/4" plywood with very light framing it should be okay. All I'm suggesting is to compare what you are taking out with what you are putting in...for example - our cabinets do not have backs, so they are much lighter than a "box-style" traditional cabinet. Also, the door fronts are light weight plywood, not solid hardwood. The newer trailers are built to handle these heavy weights (axles) but the older ones weren't.

Shari
Shari, He will be using the old frames as templates... without backs. We had originally planned to use maple plywood for the door fronts. I can't remember how we got to solid maple... I guess we should reconsider. We are also replacing the gaucho in the front with a dinette. I was thinking this would end up being lighter.

Robert, maybe I should consider the aluminum drawer boxes. Do you have a company name?

And another question... does anyone have good ideas for door and drawer lathches? I want the door fronts to have a 'clean line' look. Is there something that latches inside like Tot Locks? Those are latches that lock when you push them shut and a magnet held in front releases the lock. Those are close to what I would like, but I can't imagine having to locate a magnet everytime I want to open something.

Thank you everyone for the discussion. Pam

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Old 03-17-2007, 12:53 PM   #20
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These work great and add some degree of security as well. I am sure your cabinetmaker probably knows about these. You cannot see them from the outside. Once you get the dimension insilation is easy. They a lock and unlock easy as pie and they are not too expensive they work for drawers or doors. I've been using them for years. Mostly for people who have Rugrats. They can be sent to be locked or unlocked. Just by changing the position of the bail on the back of the lock.

Rev-A-Lock Security System


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Old 03-17-2007, 02:33 PM   #21
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"They can be sent to be locked or unlocked. Just by changing the position of the bail on the back of the lock."

Thanks, SaabLover This is the part I was missing! The ability to disengage when I am working in the kitchen! I think these are perfect. Have you used them in a trailer? Since you are recommending them I am sure you feel like they are strong enough... Pam
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Old 03-17-2007, 02:49 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pamelake
"They can be sent to be locked or unlocked. Just by changing the position of the bail on the back of the lock."

Thanks, SaabLover This is the part I was missing! The ability to disengage when I am working in the kitchen! I think these are perfect. Have you used them in a trailer? Since you are recommending them I am sure you feel like they are strong enough... Pam
Installed properly you should have no trouble whatsoever. These are made to keep your 40 pound son from getting into your kitchen cabinets when he is pulling with all his might. I use these once on a cabinet I built for 85 foot Berger. Never had any callbacks. One of the cabinets on that boat had a 27 inch analog television in it.
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Old 03-17-2007, 04:32 PM   #23
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Cost for Labor....

Especially if he's using real wood, you're getting a deal. If you haven't noticed lately, wood has become extremely expensive since the "war" started. (At least that's the excuse the lumber companies are using)

Just look at what kitchen cabinets cost - Not cheap. Install (labor) is about $1500 to $2000 dollars for the "average" kitchen. Your AS also has the unique angle that kitchens don't have.

Well, that's my 2 cents worth.

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Old 03-18-2007, 01:47 PM   #24
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Trying to post a picture.

I talked with the cabinet maker today. He had already come to the same conclusion about the door fronts and thinks that maple ply will work better. So I hope that lightens things up!

Now I am going to try again to post a picture. I have been working on this since yesterday... trying to make the picture small enough. If this works, it is a picture of the stove and sink side before....



Yeah!!! it worked! I will try to add some more 'befores'. Hope I don't drive the forum crazy now...
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Old 03-18-2007, 01:55 PM   #25
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From what's that pic shows if you pulled out the old and I used them as templates I can rebuild that new in under two work days
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Old 03-18-2007, 02:27 PM   #26
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From what's that pic shows if you pulled out the old and I used them as templates I can rebuild that new in under two work days
Thanks Bob, We are adding an area to the right of the existing cabinet that will be floor to counter top drawers. It will be about 18 inches to the right of cabinet. There will also be drawers where the tamboor was... I am going to try and place an after tearout picture here...
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Old 03-18-2007, 05:15 PM   #27
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Being in the business, I would say the labor charge is a good deal. Your material estimate is low. Don't skimp on the hardware, things are going to take a lot of bumps and vibration. I would have to agree with the other comments, keep the guy happy. The only other comment I could make is, make sure it gets done within you time frame. I know it sounds hard and cruel, but you don't want it to take 6 - 12 months, it should be done in weeks. Sometimes a job like this is hard on a friendship. T
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Old 03-18-2007, 05:47 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tamis
Being in the business, I would say the labor charge is a good deal. Your material estimate is low. Don't skimp on the hardware, things are going to take a lot of bumps and vibration. I would have to agree with the other comments, keep the guy happy. The only other comment I could make is, make sure it gets done within you time frame. I know it sounds hard and cruel, but you don't want it to take 6 - 12 months, it should be done in weeks. Sometimes a job like this is hard on a friendship. T
Thanks for commenting... My friend will appreciate that I have gotten my reality checks about the cost for labor here at the forum. He is an excellent craftsman, his work is like art. I had to talk him into doing this because he is phasing out of cabinet building and hoping to spend more time on an art project. I finally convinced him that my Airstream was my piece of art that he would be contributing to! He finally agreed so I have to be extra nice......

We also have an 'end date' because he summers in Minnesota and he needs to be done by the end of May. I will be very careful with the friendship and thanks for the advice. Pam
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