I am redoing a 1975 31' Sovereign...quoted $4,000 to redo all cabinets and credenza from the galley forward...some specialty stuff included such as built in Convection micro and some fancy new drawers...sounded good to me...I know the guys work is great!
G
G, how about some pics of your redo. I am looking for good ideas to procede with mine. How long did it take him? Did he take it to his shop or work on it at your place? I have my own cabinet shop and will start this Spring with my redo.
I am in the process of a taking out all the old cabinetsand redoing all of the plumbing at this point...as soon as I do that I am taking it to his place for the install.
Especially if he's using real wood, you're getting a deal. If you haven't noticed lately, wood has become extremely expensive since the "war" started. (At least that's the excuse the lumber companies are using)
Just look at what kitchen cabinets cost - Not cheap. Install (labor) is about $1500 to $2000 dollars for the "average" kitchen. Your AS also has the unique angle that kitchens don't have.
Well, that's my 2 cents worth.
R/
Safari-Rick
__________________ "Better to have more then you need, then need more then you have because you don't have enough!" AIR #: 8129
I talked with the cabinet maker today. He had already come to the same conclusion about the door fronts and thinks that maple ply will work better. So I hope that lightens things up!
Now I am going to try again to post a picture. I have been working on this since yesterday... trying to make the picture small enough. If this works, it is a picture of the stove and sink side before....
Yeah!!! it worked! I will try to add some more 'befores'. Hope I don't drive the forum crazy now...
From what's that pic shows if you pulled out the old and I used them as templates I can rebuild that new in under two work days
Thanks Bob, We are adding an area to the right of the existing cabinet that will be floor to counter top drawers. It will be about 18 inches to the right of cabinet. There will also be drawers where the tamboor was... I am going to try and place an after tearout picture here...
Being in the business, I would say the labor charge is a good deal. Your material estimate is low. Don't skimp on the hardware, things are going to take a lot of bumps and vibration. I would have to agree with the other comments, keep the guy happy. The only other comment I could make is, make sure it gets done within you time frame. I know it sounds hard and cruel, but you don't want it to take 6 - 12 months, it should be done in weeks. Sometimes a job like this is hard on a friendship. T
__________________ If you don't know where you're going, it doesn't matter what road you take..............
Being in the business, I would say the labor charge is a good deal. Your material estimate is low. Don't skimp on the hardware, things are going to take a lot of bumps and vibration. I would have to agree with the other comments, keep the guy happy. The only other comment I could make is, make sure it gets done within you time frame. I know it sounds hard and cruel, but you don't want it to take 6 - 12 months, it should be done in weeks. Sometimes a job like this is hard on a friendship. T
Thanks for commenting... My friend will appreciate that I have gotten my reality checks about the cost for labor here at the forum. He is an excellent craftsman, his work is like art. I had to talk him into doing this because he is phasing out of cabinet building and hoping to spend more time on an art project. I finally convinced him that my Airstream was my piece of art that he would be contributing to! He finally agreed so I have to be extra nice......
We also have an 'end date' because he summers in Minnesota and he needs to be done by the end of May. I will be very careful with the friendship and thanks for the advice. Pam
Now that you have it torn down, are you going to replace the furnace and replace the water lines with PEX?
I was afraid of that question... only because it makes me so nervous. I did have the trailer into the local Airstream dealership (George Sutton RV in Eugene Oregon) after the 'tear out'. They replaced some copper tubing in front of the furnace. I got really confused about this because I had intended on replacing it all with PEX and they talked me out of it. And after being quoted $1400-$1600 to replace the furnace I decided not to. The service department also suggested that if it was working, why replace it? Have I made a mistake? Pam
Why not try a solid frame on the doors with a 1/4" ply flat inside panel. The would be even lighter then 3/4" plywood. I'm sure your cabinetmaker would rather use just straight plywood because it is much easier. I have some samples of Mahogany and Cherry that I could shoot a photo of Monday if you like, I don't have any maple right now. A solid frame door can take more abuse than the ply with edge banning on it. Also by no means pay him all the $$ up front maybe 1/3 to start, 1/3 when he begins to install, and 1/3 at finish. On the outside with finishing no more than 3 weeks that if he takes his time at it.
What kind of finish is he using?
Why not try a solid frame on the doors with a 1/4" ply flat inside panel. The would be even lighter then 3/4" plywood. I'm sure your cabinetmaker would rather use just straight plywood because it is much easier. I have some samples of Mahogany and Cherry that I could shoot a photo of Monday if you like, I don't have any maple right now. A solid frame door can take more abuse than the ply with edge banning on it. Also by no means pay him all the $$ up front maybe 1/3 to start, 1/3 when he begins to install, and 1/3 at finish. On the outside with finishing no more than 3 weeks that if he takes his time at it.
What kind of finish is he using?
The solid frame with ply inside is something I think he suggested in the beginning. I didn't think I liked the look, because I want a straight clean line. Do you have pictures? I believe he is thinking of 1/2 ply now to keep the weight down (instead of solid). I'll ask about the finish...
Thank You for your compliment. The panels over the stove and refrigerator have a support that acts like a hydraulic piston it keeps the door propped open for access and gives it a slow positive closing action to keep it closed. I was going to use this on my upper cabinets in my 31 footer when I redo it. All the doors are hung with the European-style hinges that are spring-loaded. I can tell you where to get the door supports for the upper cabinet doors if you need them. The countertop is made with Formica with a cherry solid wood edging.
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