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Old 06-30-2010, 12:26 PM   #1
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Cabinet Frame Construction?

We are replacing the overhead cabinets as well as the bunks and galley cabinet in our "78" Ambassador. With the bouncing and pounding the trailer is subjected to...what is the preferred way of building the face frames for the cabinets? Mortise/tenon, lap joints, bisquit joints, pin with dowels, ect. I only want to do this once. Also, what is the preferred method of fixing cabinets to the interior walls. Thanks for your input!

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Old 06-30-2010, 12:54 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadrunner View Post
We are replacing the overhead cabinets as well as the bunks and galley cabinet in our "78" Ambassador. With the bouncing and pounding the trailer is subjected to...what is the preferred way of building the face frames for the cabinets? Mortise/tenon, lap joints, bisquit joints, pin with dowels, ect. I only want to do this once. Also, what is the preferred method of fixing cabinets to the interior walls. Thanks for your input!

Bob
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Bob,

I am using pocket holes and screws to hold the frame together and screwing a ledger to the wall to fasten the frame to the ledger, again with pocket holes and screws.

Such as: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...u=00929133000P

Bill
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Old 07-14-2010, 05:56 AM   #3
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It depends on your ability to make the joint. My original cabinet face frames were held together with dowels and they didn't shake loose. I used half lap joints on my overhead cabinets and I'm making a bath cabinet now out of foam/pvc material and pocket screws. My cabinets are attached with ss screws. It's still a work in progress, so I can't validate how well it'll hold up. From what I've read, loose cabinets have more to do with trailer suspension than cabinet attachment.
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:08 AM   #4
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Strongest non-tenon joint is going to be pocket hole and glue. Many people think the end/side grain joint won't hold glue and that all the bond is mechanical with the pocket screws.. untrue. Good pocket jigs/machines can be expensive, more so if this is the only project you need it for, but a good, but slow one, can be had. If I was only doing a couple face frames I would use one of these.. I use the mounted master kit, but there are a lot of pocket holes to be placed in a residential kitchen, so the speed of that mounted clamp system is nice.

Build the cabinet with no solid back, just as you found them to be originaly, use a strp of aluminum angle as a ledger.
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Old 07-14-2010, 07:43 AM   #5
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Pocket holes for sure

I'm in the progress of converting from a crosswise queen to twin beds. In the past, I removed the couch and replaced it with recliners and cabinets. All with pocket screws and glue. I even skip the glue when I can put plenty of screws into solid oak.

I use pocket hole screws wherever possible, although I have two biscuit cutters and a dowling jig, as well. I seldom use the last two anymore unless there is no way to use the pocket screws.
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Old 08-07-2010, 08:47 PM   #6
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WOW...thanks for the suggestion to use pocket screws! Several weeks ago I stopped at the local Woodcrafters and picked up the Kreg Jig. This is one slick piece of woodworking equipment. I started the face frames for the overhead cabinets today. Using mahogany I was concerned about the wood splitting and not getting tight joints...all I can say is WOW. In the past I have used dowels or bisquit joints...this will certainly cut down on the time. A little glue, some screws, and a nice tight joint. My suggestion to anyone building cabinets, look for a Kreg Jig.

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Old 08-08-2010, 01:42 AM   #7
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Hi, on my remodel, I used the Kreg pocket screw kit. Since I was using mostly 1"X 2" Poplar and Oak , the two hole jig worked perfect for me. It's not too expensive and easy to use. I highly recommend it.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:58 AM   #8
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Many thanks to all who educated us on Kreg tools/screws. That has opened up a whole new world and I will now be able to make EVERYTHING stronger on the 76 Sovereign.

Using the concept of the heavy picture hangers in drywall with the angled (downward) nail insertion technique this could be duplicated with Kreg screws in the thin plywood that seems to abound everywhere that has/is coming loose.

About six years ago I got a cargo trailer in Ohio when I attended the sell off of the family home place there and cargo trailer rental prices were outrageous so I went and bought a 6x10 rear ramp trailer and with the number of trips I have pulled it to Ohio, the trailer has paid for itself.

They asked if I wanted E trac.

The trailer was lined with 1/4" plywood and they used washer head screws (very similar to Kreg) to hold the E trac on the walls and decking. I though it all would pull out once I started lashing things to wall with somewhat heavy weight and to my pleasant surprise not one screw (insofar as I can tell) has come loose and the e trac is as good as new.

Thusly when I saw the Kreg washer head screws and their application in hole pockets I recognized immediately that this is a real winner.

First project is going to be rebuilding the storage area under the galley which has collapsed. In looking at the materials used I am not surprised it has done so thusly I will be going back with 3/8" plywood lower floor and I will firm up the partition between galley storage and stove with 1/4" Will be supporting galley storage decking on the outboard side with 1X3 columns going down to main deck.

The rear panel will be on hinges that will allow me to unscrew two or three screws and fold it down so I can get to plumbing if need be.

I figure I can increase the storage area under the galley at least 40% that will hold heavy canned goods etc down closer to main deck level.

The Univolt didn't volt any more so I got a IOTA from Randy and I am going to relocate the power supply to the bulkhead between galley and twin bed room which gives me more room right behind the magazine rack.

Pulled out about half the wimpy Univolt mounting shelf as it has crashed and fell down on the PAR pump with POs. I hope to fabricate a long storage compartment for rifle and ammo attached to the outboard wall and underside of counter top. Will mount what will look like a 1X3 chair rail (maybe 2 of them parallel) directly to ribbing with 8X32 screws after drilling holes through paneling and tapping the rib. Then some pocket screws running downwards though the inside skin (like picture hanging nails) which should hold from now on.

Thanks again for the heads up on Kreg guys ! ! ! !
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:58 PM   #9
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Keep us posted on your progress. I wish I had more projects so that I could use the Kreg jig!

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Old 09-05-2010, 10:14 PM   #10
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Cabinets

I used the Kreg System and found it to be just what I was looking for, it is easy to use and makes building cabinet bases and face frames a snap. In my '74 Argosy, I removed and replaced all of the base cabinetry. But in the overhead storage cabinets, I checked to make sure they were firmly attached to the walls. The removed the doors and built new face frames that attached to the original extruded aluminum frames. I have posted a few pics on my blog as well as to a number of posts I have made. Good Luck with your project.
P.S. I'm one of those guys who believes that quality tools are worth the money and the Kreg system is worth every dime. OH! I don't sell them.
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Old 09-06-2010, 05:17 AM   #11
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When I was little I grew up calling a guy uncle and I was like eleven before they told me he wasn't really my uncle but he had a ton of tools and he left me his tools so with his, my Dad's and what I have bought so"tools be us". Uncle said there was an old saying, "a man is no better than his tools" which I have found to be quite true. It is amazing how much neat stuff has come on line in last ten years. Last pocket hole rig I saw was for drywall screws which didn't work real well as they wanted to split out easily but these Kregs are it.
I went to Lowes and got a Jr kit and a box of 1 1/2" screws yesterday and was planning on getting on it today but management informed me I gotta go make nice to in laws but I do get to eat while there haha.

Got a guy coming Friday to tint the window with Llumar 15? which will turn the windows silver on the outside and hopefully no will will be able to see in at all.

Next project (after galley rebuild) is to get Lexan sheet and fab a protective screen across front windows and rear window. Also have to redeck a 5X11 cargo trailer along with rewiring it. Also got a Jeep trailer. So many trailers, so little time haha.


It may not be paneling but I swear the shelving etc is made of appears to be just 1/8" paneling. As I jerk it out I am saving it as patterns for more useful wood weights.
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Old 09-06-2010, 07:16 AM   #12
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Screws

Forced Family Fun. Isn't it great? When it comes to the screws, there are different lengths as well as different thread types for specific woods. Fine thread for hard woods and coarse thread for plywoods. But you may already know that.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:03 AM   #13
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Yes I got a box of 1 1/2" coarse thread as the stuff I am going to be working with is 3/4" yellow pine, white pine and Doug Fir. I will probably be using Titebond III, Devcon Clear 2 Ton Epoxy (slow set) and Marinetex as well.
I was disappointed as I wanted a 1000 of the screws but no one stocked them so packed. The hundred box should get me through the galley/rifle storage box just fine. Will be going to the lumber yard today and will see if they have the big box.

Under AS support activity I need to build a shed about sixty feet long and 12 feet wide and 12 feet high thusly I need to bring in 16 foot 6X6s or 16' 4" pipe. The 2500HD I got to pull the AS came with a very deep tool box which only allows about 3" of plywood to go up under cutting the useable bed length down to 5 feet or so. I hauled such in on F250 I had with no tool box and 16' is a bit touchy so it is time to Plan B.

Getting two more sheets of treated exterior 3/4" to deck out my 5X11'4" flat bed cargo trailer.

I replaced the double (mobile home) axles with a single 8000 lb torsion bar axle with 10" electric brakes about 12 years back. It has 8 lug 2 piece rims with 10 ply tires. It tows dead straight and is very easily backed.

Also will stop by scrap steel place for some heavy wall square tubing. Saw an idea where a guy put heavy tubing down the middle of such a trailer welded underside and he had another piece of heavy wall square that slid down in. At the outer end there was a piece about four feet wide welded as a "T". He could pull it out and pin in place another four feet to support long sheets of roof tin. Then when finished he just pulled pins and pushed it back in and it was there until needed the next time.

The trick with two such welded as a "U" will be to make sure the welded on pieces are parallel so when the shelf is pulled out nothing binds which is probably why he used only one. Guess I could fab a end piece with female caps that could be pinned in place over the pull outs for the bottom of the U and have conspicuity tape across the back and of course flagged. Thinking more on it that is the way to go because if I backed into something etc the whole thing would be warped. With a removable back section the sides would not be wedged in requiring cutting to get it off.
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:42 AM   #14
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You do not need to buy anywhere near1000 screws. A screw every 4" or 5" is more than enough when used with glue. I lean toward each 6". I have built cabinets for both ends of my trailer and have not exhausted a box of 100. I bought 100 of each length and pitch that I figured I would ever need and I have not gone through 100 of any size yet and that includes building some hazards for a miniature golf course.

If you have a pin nailer, try tacking the pieces in alignment before inserting the screws wherever possible. That guarantees no slippage when inserting the screws.
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