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Old 09-07-2010, 08:54 AM   #15
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1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
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Clamp it.

You should clamp the joint when drilling and assembling. This prevents offset joints. Try it with and without clamp on some scrap wood. Kreg recommends clamping.

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Old 09-08-2010, 07:14 AM   #16
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1976 31' Sovereign
Springfield , South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 235
Yep I have a small brad nailer, and a big Bostitch finish nailer and for those forever jobs I have a big Bostitch stapler that drives 2" x 1/2" crown staples with glue on them. Same thing they make pallets with. I discovered the other day a Stanley Frame clamp normally used to cut mitered corners can be adjusted to hold up to 3" wide pieces for a T joint. This would come in handy to hold the skeleton frame early on. I have two of these I have picked up in flea markets last 20 years.
I was surfing around last night and I found a Kreg clamp outfit for holding shelving while it is screwed. It has a long finger that goes in one hole and a bracket on opposite end. I probably wouldn't make shelving with it as I have Dado blade kits for the table and radial arm saw and they do a good job of removing slight warps in pine boards. Glue them in and clamp followed by a back panel I glue and brad nail on. Been lucky so far, never had one fail or get loose. Then again they have never taken a trip in AS haha.

I agree there is no way I will use over a 100 box of these on the AS projects even though next is going after the closet shelves that went to crap years ago. Apparently the paneling AS used to make them has a tendancy to shrink as neither shelf is in the groove at the front.

I am going to use two pieces of 1" light duty angle about four inches long clamped with a vice grip floating pad to hold the 2X4 in place as I end screw it into the 2X2 ledger already there. I will use four pocket holes. One on each narrow wide and two in top and run the sides in first to locate the 2X4. It will also be glued up.

I started on it yesterday and first I had to remove what was there and found the left panel was never rivited in place and had allowed everything to sag. The Univolt frame failure did not help so the shelving was out and I first cut a column from 2X4 and pocket screwed on end to the main neck and the left panel is now sitting on it which I knew would not last so I put three furring strips vertically down it with a 1/4" piece of plywood over that and screwed/glued it all together for a very substantial assembly. Did same on other end. I am extending the under gally shelf all the way to the back wall. It will be in two pieces and these will either just lay there or I might put in one screw to locate them. I don't dare put this in permanent as I need to be able to get to the plumbing.

The new power supply(Univolt no longer volts) is going to be relocated to the under galley on the wall going into twin bed room mounted so I can get to the two fuses easily.

As indicated the closets follow. The supplied shelving will be used as a rough pattern and I will cut next shelf adding 3/4" on all sides for a try and see to arrive at final dimension and will get rid of the track which no longer works anyway. I have already done similar replacing the drawer runners under the counter opposite the sink. I used 1" light angle for drawer glides. Works well except I need to change out the screws on one side and counter sink them and use flat heads and run them through and put 8X32 nut on other side cut flush and Loctite applied to keep them from vibrating loose down the road.

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Old 09-08-2010, 10:15 AM   #17
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1979 31' Sovereign
Milford , Ohio
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I recently rebuilt my living room credenza and used half lap joints, glued and nailed. Attached to the floor and top with aluminum angle stock cut to length and drilled every four inches or so. See my blog for way too much information

So far only one road test since completed and that was just a short trip, so I really can't say how well this will hold up. I have replaced my axles though, which were previously beating up all cabinetry.

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