Building L sofa Need Help & Suggestions (Bob Villa)

LI Pets · 11-05-2006, 02:57 PM

I building a L shaped couch sofa, I laid out the first set of frames.

I used 3/4" wood cleats on the floor to uprights so far, I was thinking of using light guage L alum on walls to uprights.

The left side are 33" apart and the right are 24"" apart, I think I need another on the left side.

The (bottom) fronts are going to be fixed with either 1/4" or 3/4" cherry ply.
I would like to save the weight and $$ on the 3/4".

The seats are going to have hatches about 18" Wide by 10" front to back, but be fixed solid otherwise. I was going to use 3/8" ply but it will need support?

The seat backs also 3/8"

How would you suggest I frame out the rest of the supports or any other changes.

Thanks in advance.

**Janet** · 11-05-2006, 03:17 PM

Hi - I am not a builder... but our minuet has furniture that is really light weight and all aluminum (except the section under cushion). It is box framed from aluminum channel and there are (same ALU. channel) cross supports that run under the 1/4" ply that holds up the cushions. The box supplys all the structual strenght and is sheathed with the covering panels and storage door fronts.

The visible ends of the benches are finished with a screwed on piece of upholstered heavy cardboard. It's all strong, has lasted 30 years and is self supporting (doesn't rely on trailer shell for strength)

LI Pets · 11-05-2006, 03:45 PM

Janet, are you sure about the 1/4"??

I would think it's 3/8"

**Janet** · 11-05-2006, 04:15 PM

Positive. The ply under the cushions is 1/4" I didn't say it was w/o flex.... but sufficient and as there are cross braces under the ply, it seems to be OK.

LI Pets · 11-05-2006, 04:21 PM

Interesting?

Silver Threads · 11-05-2006, 09:53 PM

Hi Bob, the ply under ours is 1/4" also. I sat on it without a cushion on it and it cracked! I was thinking of replacing it with something a little thicker, wonder if that would be a problem? It actually looks like a piece of paneling.
Tammy

trea · 11-05-2006, 10:07 PM

We started building our new dinette/double bed this weekend and we have it all framed out in 3/4 inch birch. We screwed cleats on the floor and fastened cleats for the uprights simular to what you have. I would not use anything less the 3/4 in for your seats and back. Card board patterns work great for getting the curve right.

Larry and Nicole

ayresdream · 11-05-2006, 11:01 PM

I have a '71 Ambassador that I'm also putting a dinette in. My plan is to build it so it goes along the front. Any suggestions? Plans?

doorgunner · 11-05-2006, 11:12 PM

hey BOB; you must have some left over epoxy from your floor.if you really want your sofa to hold 1000lbs you could bond a few layers of 10 oz cloth to your framework. Just a thought. And if you need more strength you could cut cardboard tubing in half and bond that to the structure as well. that would give you lotsa load carry capability. Tim

Fyrzowt · 11-05-2006, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ayresdream

I have a '71 Ambassador that I'm also putting a dinette in. My plan is to build it so it goes along the front. Any suggestions? Plans?

I got this (see attachment)from another thread on this subject, do a search.

startrekker2001 · 11-06-2006, 08:09 AM

I don't know if this will help, but here is the L-shaped lounge info from the service manual for the 1978 Excella. You can enlarge the photos so they are legible.

LI Pets · 11-06-2006, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doorgunner

hey BOB; you must have some left over epoxy from your floor.if you really want your sofa to hold 1000lbs you could bond a few layers of 10 oz cloth to your framework. Just a thought. And if you need more strength you could cut cardboard tubing in half and bond that to the structure as well. that would give you lotsa load carry capability. Tim

Tim, a thousand pounds? I only used 6 oz on the floor.

I like fiberglass but not that much, too make supports out of it. I plan on leaving in 7 weeks with some place to sit on.

I suppose I could use 3/8" or 1/2 for the seat, and 3/8" for the seat backs.

If that was too springy I could thow on a layer of Fiberglass???

doorgunner · 11-06-2006, 09:31 AM

is you can always add a little or grind a little off. I'm a real fan of composites as you may have gathered from my posts elsewhere. It is amazing what can be done with it and a little hootspa. There are a lot of good books on boat construction that can give you lots of info. Try the West System website.Hey you headed out here to the left coast? Tim

sequoiacoast · 11-06-2006, 09:53 AM

Hi Lipets,
We used 3/4 for the uprights and face frame and 1/2", or 5/8" (?) for the backrests and seat bottoms. The uprights on ours are very similar to what you're doing and we "attached" them to the interior wall with aluminum u-channel. The front of the uprights were datto-ed to the front ply. We may have used more supports... (hard to tell actual distance in the pic). On the curve- we have one in the middle of the two shown in your pic.

I must have lost the camera- didn't take pix! Looks good- having fun??