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Old 07-16-2004, 05:41 PM   #15
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Ingrid, I am in the same boat as you as far as my interior goes.I tore the whole thing apart in a couple of days and brought it to the dump.I should have kept the tub,sinks and a few samples of how cabinets were made.The trailer was so moldy I did not want to keep anything and did not want to bring my camera in to take pictures of how things were put together.I thought I could remember how things are built as it is mostly 1/8" ply on 1x2s.The problem is the devil is in the details.When I get to the point that I can start building cabinets I hope I can find someone near me that has a vintage Airstream that I can "monkey see monkey do".I kept the old floor boards and that will help with the dimensions of the layout at least.
The same has happened to me with the frame off floor replacement.It is taking more time reassembling the body to the frame as I took no pictures or measurements of where frames meet floor.So before that comes apart take as many photos and measurements as you can.
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Old 05-01-2005, 12:24 PM   #16
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New Airstream Shower Enclosures

I was checking out some of the new CCD models at the Sky River dealership in Paso Robles, Ca recently and noticed that the manufacturers decals were still on the shower enclosures... seems thay are made in Indiana by a company called Ultra Glass. I couldn't find much info on the web about them so I suspect they only do wholesale. If it was not too pricey I would consider using one of those in a bath remodel.

Ultra Glass
520 Industrial Drive
Lakeville, Indiana 46536
574 784 4859
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Old 05-01-2005, 05:05 PM   #17
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Thank you very much! I shall pursue that!
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Old 05-26-2005, 09:46 PM   #18
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if I can be of any help....

Hey there Ingrid! Well you can take solace in the fact that others learned from your mistakes! I haven't thrown out anything from my Safari and a lot of that is due to your warnings to me. But in any event my bathroom (while presently not in the trailer) is intact and I documented it's disassembly with plently of pictures and notes. I'm guessing there are similarities between the 24s and 22s in '67 so if I can help you out in anyway with info, let me know!Diane
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Old 06-17-2005, 08:21 PM   #19
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Can 5 see+

Quote:
Originally Posted by silver suz
I suggest that you take the belly pans off clean it out and then check your tanks and plumbing. We are doing CCD to the extreme. I am putting up with my son's desire to use for the floor. I have thick rugs. We are- "a la Ted Taylor" making the bath all metal. For the cabinets we are using a decorative punched out aluminum sheet that has 50% of the weight gone from the beginning. The sink will be a smaller version of the kitchen sink (another thread) made from a good strong mixing bowl. Don't forget there is a fan to evacuate toilet smells and extra moisture. I realised I use my big fancy tub a couple of times a year, always using the shower. So we are putting a shower in- also metal. By the way, I have multiple chemical sensitivities, and am doing the metal look- not realising it's the "in" thing with this designer Chris C. Dean, therefor the CCD look. silver suz
I am doing the same renov and am a bit nervous about the new design. it is gutted and I dont know where to start. I also want an all stainless bath so I can spray water, whereever. Any thoughts?
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Old 11-18-2006, 02:18 PM   #20
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A question

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Originally Posted by Stefrobrts

Maybe it would be easier to build the bathroom in the center along the hall and put the bedroom n the back, that way you won't have to deal with quite as many curves as you would building a rear bath. At least the trailers I have seen with center baths look simpler to me.
With doing this, does the black tank then have to be relocated? I was told that the toilet should always go directly over the blacktank due to the gravity system plumbing system If the black tank is not required, then I will be changing to a side bath unit, and making the rear into a bedroom.
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Old 11-18-2006, 11:23 PM   #21
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Hi soldiermedic,

Apparently there are marine toilets that allow you to have the black tank somewhere other than right under the toilet...I wish I had more experience to share with you, but the official word at this point is that it CAN be done, and it sounds like it's not too difficult. Go see the thread I started, do a search for "marine lav" and you should come up with a thread that says something about the tank being away from the toilet. All the info that I have on this is in that thread. here's a link I hope it works...

http://www.airforums.com/forum...let-27537.html

Maybe we can walk each other through this, when we get to it. I have a few weeks ahead of no trailer work due to vacations, holidays and...being broke!
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:03 PM   #22
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In planning phase

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Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes
Maybe we can walk each other through this, when we get to it. I have a few weeks ahead of no trailer work due to vacations, holidays and...being broke!
I have requested Carlos send me the wood endcap templates from his remodel and I will be incorporation them into my finished project, but currently I am planning for a full monty with side bath. I really want a rear bed area so if I want to sleep and the wife wants to read or watch tv we can be separated. I only have a 22 footer, but it should be able to be done...heck, look at what Carlos did. I have clearance to spend up to $15,000 total and $3500 of that was buying the trailer. I am debating on a complete new frame with Marine Plywood with an miniscule cost of $2800 from a local trailer fabricator. That leaves me alot for a full monty...heck I think Carlos has just a tad bit more than that from what he said on his forum.

For that side bath, I would prefer not to have a wet bath seeing how people are very down on them. I could see saving space by not having a lav, and just using the kitchen, but I need to seriously consider that before doing it. What is the most efficient design for a side/center bath?

Anyone with ideas?
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Old 11-23-2006, 01:29 PM   #23
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My 1973 31' unit is still empty while I try to spend a little time here and there putting the insulation back in. In the mean time I have been thinking about various center bath arrangements. My Unit did have a center bath to begin with but I felt it was way too cramped. At any rate one of the approaches that I have been thinking about might be a good way to go for a shorter trailer with less space to work with. So see what you think about this:

1.) Make the bathroom go across the tailer from side to side so that it is a walk through bath. It only needs to take up about 3' lengthwise that way.

2.) Put the toilet on one side and the sink on the other side.

3.) Of course two entry doors are required - one to the bedroom and one to the kitchen area.

4.) Put a shower drain in the middle of the floor. I was contemplating using a prefab fiberglass shower pan that would fit between the base of the toilet and the bottom of the sink area. Perhaps have a cover of some sort over it when not in use. Maybe even a wood lattice of some sort would be a good idea. Water could drain through but the floor would be flat to stand on. The idea is to have a shower pan that has curbing all the way around it.

5.) Instead of the bath having to be a full wet bath I was thinking about putting a shower curtain on an overhead track all the way around the shower area when in use. It could park in a spot where it was still over the shower pan so that it could drain until it was dry. Of course it would work just fine if the bathroom was a wet bath too.

6.) The tricky part if using a shower curtain all the way around is figuring out where to put the shower valve and the shower head itself. I have had some thoughts of using some type of diverter valve at the sink so that I could redirect the sink water to the shower and use the valve on the sink to control the water. Perhaps the shower head could be on a flexible hose and have a hanger inside of the shower curtain.

Perhaps the idea above, or some variation, would meet the need...

Malcolm
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Old 11-23-2006, 09:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
My 1973 31' unit is still empty while I try to spend a little time here and there putting the insulation back in. In the mean time I have been thinking about various center bath arrangements. My Unit did have a center bath to begin with but I felt it was way too cramped. At any rate one of the approaches that I have been thinking about might be a good way to go for a shorter trailer with less space to work with. So see what you think about this:

1.) Make the bathroom go across the tailer from side to side so that it is a walk through bath. It only needs to take up about 3' lengthwise that way.

2.) Put the toilet on one side and the sink on the other side.

3.) Of course two entry doors are required - one to the bedroom and one to the kitchen area.

4.) Put a shower drain in the middle of the floor. I was contemplating using a prefab fiberglass shower pan that would fit between the base of the toilet and the bottom of the sink area. Perhaps have a cover of some sort over it when not in use. Maybe even a wood lattice of some sort would be a good idea. Water could drain through but the floor would be flat to stand on. The idea is to have a shower pan that has curbing all the way around it.

5.) Instead of the bath having to be a full wet bath I was thinking about putting a shower curtain on an overhead track all the way around the shower area when in use. It could park in a spot where it was still over the shower pan so that it could drain until it was dry. Of course it would work just fine if the bathroom was a wet bath too.

6.) The tricky part if using a shower curtain all the way around is figuring out where to put the shower valve and the shower head itself. I have had some thoughts of using some type of diverter valve at the sink so that I could redirect the sink water to the shower and use the valve on the sink to control the water. Perhaps the shower head could be on a flexible hose and have a hanger inside of the shower curtain.

Perhaps the idea above, or some variation, would meet the need...

Malcolm

I am not an artist, but does this drawing ret the gist of what you were saying? I biggest thing to look out for are the wheel wells. They will take up room, and be unfriendly to work around. A custon enclusure could be as easy as using aluminum, or even the plastic shower wall pieces from Lowes/homefepot. It is possible, and may even be better for weight distribution this way instead of being all on one side of the trailer. I suppose the black tank could be relocated directly underneath the toilet (Doesn't it have to be?).

SM
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Old 11-24-2006, 02:18 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soldiermedic
I am not an artist, but does this drawing ret the gist of what you were saying? I biggest thing to look out for are the wheel wells. They will take up room, and be unfriendly to work around. A custon enclusure could be as easy as using aluminum, or even the plastic shower wall pieces from Lowes/homefepot. It is possible, and may even be better for weight distribution this way instead of being all on one side of the trailer. I suppose the black tank could be relocated directly underneath the toilet (Doesn't it have to be?).

SM
You have caught the general gist of the plan. The one thing that is different is that the toilet has to be more inboard because of the wheel wells. The sink can be mounted over the wheel wells but that would not be so easy for the toilet. This basically means that the doors to the bathroom might not be centered on the bathroom. The original layout in my rig had the hallway off-center a bit anyway so probably no big deal.

Actually I would like to find a toilet that could be mounted over the wheel well and maybe there is such a thing. I have not gone searching for one as of yet. I had in mind mounting a large storage cupboard above and behind the toiilet.

In my case the location of the bath can actually be directly over the area where I was intending to mount a combination black and grey water tank in the cavity right behind my rear axle. I have explored the pros and cons of having a combined tank in another thread here somewhere.

Toilets do not need to be right above the holding tank. There are various types of marine toilets that have a built in pump - either manual or electric - that allow the toilet to be mounted remote from the black water tank so you could theoretically put the toilet and tank anywhere you want as long as you can get a 1-1/2" connection between them. I believe that the holding tank could even be above the floor if that was necessary in some particular situation. The following marine outfitter site has a lot of solutions for this type of thing.

http://www.defender.com/

They also have shower drain pumps that would allow the shower to be remote from the grey water tank.

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp...6832&id=319659

There is one head (toilet) that has a built in holding tank that could be interesting if the holding tank was big enough:

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?...1394&id=105225

You are certainly right that it would be easy to build a shower pan if the perfect one was not availble pre-fab. I would think it would not be all that hard to make the whole bath waterproof either for that matter. I read an interesting ariticle recently that claimed that there was an increase in the use of wet baths in residential construction. The whole bath is waterproof so that there was no need of a shower enclosure.

Malcolm
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Old 11-24-2006, 02:53 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium

Toilets do not need to be right above the holding tank. There are various types of marine toilets that have a built in pump - either manual or electric - that allow the toilet to be mounted remote from the black water tank so you could theoretically put the toilet and tank anywhere you want as long as you can get a 1-1/2" connection between them. I believe that the holding tank could even be above the floor if that was necessary in some particular situation. The following marine outfitter site has a lot of solutions for this type of thing.
For some reason it doesn't seem to me like 1 and 1/2 inch is enough for a line going from toilet to tank. Seems that some brown trout could get stuck in such a small line.
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Old 11-24-2006, 03:44 PM   #27
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Quote:
For some reason it doesn't seem to me like 1 and 1/2 inch is enough for a line going from toilet to tank. Seems that some brown trout could get stuck in such a small line.
1 1/2" line is plenty big enough. "Brown trout" extrude when pumped through the line under pressure.

In my 26' sailboat, I had a marine head that pumped uphill through a 1 1/2" flexible hose to a carry tank above the head under a cockpit seat. I had a quick disconnect so that I could boost the carry tank out to empty it. The inlet to the carry tank was probably 3' higher than the pump on the head. I used lake water sucked in through a Tee in one of the cockpit drains for the head.

Protocol for a marine head is to wet the bowl and then lay a cross of TP across the bottom. The TP folds around the brown trout and they pump easily through the hose, leaving a clean bowl.
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Old 11-24-2006, 05:06 PM   #28
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It seems like this would be the way to go since you can mount this pretty much anywhere. How much manual pumping is usually needed before the line has cleared to the black tank?
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