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Old 08-16-2015, 09:53 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by justgoclimb View Post
Smart. So I think I get what you're saying - create a small slot in the L bracket so that the screw used to attach it to the wood can wiggle around a bit to allow for flexing of the trailer?
Exactly, they need to be able to move a little or something will get ripped apart.
Original walls were so thin that the whole thing could flex quite a bit, but could still tear rivet through the edge under heavy stress.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:00 PM   #16
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Oh good to know, I never thought about that. The more I think about it, the more I like the simple aluminum L-bracket solution. Except for the wall behind my bed, which I think I'll use the double panel method on so I can hide wires for reading lights and a couple switches.
Double walls have definitely been done before.
On the double wall consider how deep the switches will be including how far wires may stick out past the back of the switch. My new 12v switches are pretty small but with the wire connectors attached to the back barely fit between inner and outer walls. So the wall could possibly need to be 1.5" thick unless you build out trim for the switched to mount to.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:37 PM   #17
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So for cutting the slots on the L-brackets, which direction should they go? Up and down or side to side? Or maybe just a largish hole and use a washer with the screw to allow movement in any direction?

Then for the double wall method, what would be the solution there to allow for flex? Because I was just thinking about screwing hardwood blocks to the inner skin and then screwing the panels to those, which would create a pretty rigid support system.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:54 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by justgoclimb View Post
So for cutting the slots on the L-brackets, which direction should they go? Up and down or side to side? Or maybe just a largish hole and use a washer with the screw to allow movement in any direction?

I think mostly tangent to the wall, so up down, but a little over sized width wise.


Then for the double wall method, what would be the solution there to allow for flex? Because I was just thinking about screwing hardwood blocks to the inner skin and then screwing the panels to those, which would create a pretty rigid support system.
That's a tough one, I'd think as long as you build in a gap along the top 1/3 it should allow room for flex. How to hide that outside the channel is the tough part. Will either side of the wall be mostly hidden, ie inside a closet or something similar?
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Old 08-16-2015, 11:15 PM   #19
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Will either side of the wall be mostly hidden, ie inside a closet or something similar?
We'll see, I'm not 100% on the layout yet. Probably won't be hidden though. Likely the back of that one will be in the bathroom.
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Old 08-17-2015, 12:43 AM   #20
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Building and attaching partitions to skin

My trailer only has three bulkheads, two that form the bathroom wall, and one more that forms one wall of the shower enclosure.

I attached them to the skins with corner brackets I made from 18 ga sheet metal formed to an "L" shape.

I didn't allow for any movement at all, and everything is cool over two years later.

I think that the factory uses the channel surround to make fitting the panels against the curve of the wall because it is easier than fitting each perpendicular bulkhead to an unpredictable curve?

I had saved an old bulkhead as a pattern, but it would not produce a wall anywhere that fit to my liking.

I rough cut the curve, then used a divider against the wall to get the curve closer, them sanded the edge to get the fit very close, and THEN I cut the bulkhead to the right width on the "hallway" side.

One of my bulkheads is a double wall piece made from two 1/4" pieces of plywood, with a strip of 3/4" plywood between the two pieces running around the perimeter. It made for a very light albeit strong wall.
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Old 08-17-2015, 07:19 AM   #21
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J. Morgan - awesome to hear that, thanks for the info. Sounds like you did exactly what I'm thinking about doing. Good to know it will work. What size and type of wood did you use for your single-panel bulkhead?
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:11 AM   #22
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Building and attaching partitions to skin

I used 1/2" plywood on the other two bulkheads, they were on either side of my shower enclosure.

If I had it to do over again I MIGHT use 1/4" to save weight.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:17 AM   #23
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Use the "F" shaped molding as the factory does.

It's readily available.

Andy
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:47 AM   #24
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Here are some shots of my process mfg and installing new partitions.

As mentioned earlier I used originals to get rough template on new 1/4" luan, then scribed and trimmed the luan so it fit the walls perfectly(within 1/16"ish), I used jig saw for bulk cuts and belt sander for fine tuning the curve. Then used luan templates to trace to make new a partition out of 1/2" and trimmed and fit to get as close to perfect as a starting point. Then I attached the F channel to the wall and marked where it began and ended on the new partition, new partition wouldn't fit in at this point because of the thickness. Then I routed a dado on the edge, 1/2" in from the edge and adjusted the router depth to get the thickness so it would fit snug into the F channel.

Here are some photos that show the routed in dado to thin the edge of the plywood. The way I laid out where the dados went on the partitions and which side they were on, I made it so that the dado would be hidden, ie 2 dado's are hidden facing the refrigerator, two others are hidden in closets. The only place the dado will be visible will be in the kitchen between the counter top and when the overhead cabinet starts, pretty short section and really not noticeable unless you really look.

Photo of routed edge, ends just beyond f channel
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Partition in f channel
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close up
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Partitions temporarily in. Just friction fit into the channels in the pic. I added a 1/8" gap along the top, some of which actually gets hidden in the channel depth. Rounded over the top corners like the originals, think it makes it look nicer.
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The back curb side partition shape changed dramatically so that the bottom comes out so a dinette bench backs up to it at the bottom, but didn't want the whole wall to be that wide, would have felt too big and made the back feel very closed off, so put a curve from the dinette shape back over to the original partition depth. Originally the dinette stuck out past the wall which just didn't look right, like having a couch only half against a wall.

Still deciding what to do to the inner edge, either round over the corners to soften them or put some 1/2" alumunim u channel over them. Both seem like good options which makes it a hard decision.
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Old 08-18-2015, 10:50 AM   #25
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I guess I'm a worrier

I would not trust plastic to not break ( eventually ) I would use aluminum, and aluminum rivets.

And….Some of the ideas stated, would mean that you would be attaching to just the skins. It is probably more better, to attach to the ribs ( aluminum studs )

AND….I would listen to Inland Andy…cause there is a slight chance, that he might could know what he is talking about.( kidding, he's a guru ) The F shaped channels would allow rivet repair, and such, without taking a whole lot of stuff apart. It would also look cool and original, and maybe some other reasons that I'm too dumb to think of.
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Old 08-18-2015, 03:13 PM   #26
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I wouldn't use plastic either.

I know that F channel is available, but does anybody have any experience they could share in bending new straight sections of this to fit the walls. with the 2 flanges perpendicular it is very stiff, and bending without some way to prevent it, the flanges will ripple when bending. Just trying to bend mine a little so they fit better was nearly impossible and they were already close, not sure how bending a straight piece to fit would go.
Attaching to rib's would be good, but the rib's may not be plumb. Attaching to the sheet metal is sufficient. 3/6 of my originals didn't go anywhere near rib's. If you want to put them where they originally were but just don't have the channel you can still use the original rivet holes as guides on where to attach the partition.
New AS I looked at they don't use the f channel any more as far as I could tell. They used L brackets and plastic U trim on the edge to fill the imperfect gap.
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Old 08-18-2015, 06:16 PM   #27
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I take pride in my gaps!

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I used 80 grit paper on a pneumatic dual action sander for the final fitment.

I got the curve right first and then cut the "hall side straight.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:57 PM   #28
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I like the new walls and cabs ... makes me want to gut ours and start over - have never been crazy about the bath.
For bending new F channels, if you had a 1/4 metal bar to use as the form, and slowly bent the aluminum onto that, putting the 1/4 bar into the slot as you go, you'd likely have no ripples. If it tried to ripple, they could be smoothed out onto the bar.
No guarantee, just thinking outloud.
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