Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-21-2016, 07:00 AM   #15
Rivet Master

 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 4,106
Excellent advice so far. Hitting the high points only:

-- no steel wool

-- treat the underside of the counter also, if it is solid birch, especially if using an oil or varnish which will harden and become a barrier to moisture. Leaving the underside raw will promote warping of the entire counter, as the two sides will not absorb moisture equally.

-- if counter is solid material, you have to allow for expansion when you attach it to the cabinet below. Clips, larger through-holes for screws etc.

-- oil-based materials will continue to off-gas over time, so be careful what you use. It may last for a while and kick you later in hot weather.

-- personally I would use mineral oil for this application, but you will have to wipe up water and food spills carefully later, and will have to re-coat sooner. The oil will darken the wood more than a water-based poly.

-- try some samples before you commit and let them sit around and in the sun. See what they smell like a few days later if you have time.

Good luck.

Peter
__________________

__________________
OTRA15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 12:05 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
1996 25' Excella
Tillsonburg , Ontario
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 739
I read somewhere that they did a bacteria test on plastic and wood cutting boards. Turns out the wood has anti-bacterial properties and was lower in counts than the washable plastic cutting boards. I have stopped worrying bout my cutting boards...I just make sure they get washed and scrubbed of leftover food particles.
JCW
__________________

__________________
JCWDCW is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 12:11 PM   #17
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,452
Yup. Read a study about it. Raw wood apparently disrupts bacteria so thoroughly that the researchers could not find bacterial DNA remaining on the surface.

Says a lot about food safety on wood surfaces.


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums
__________________
KE4GNK/AE
'The Silver HamShack' (2007 International 22FB CCD 75th Aniversary model)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch
2012 shortbed crewcab 4x4 Toyota Taco TV with more antennae on it
rmkrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 12:12 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
Larry C's Avatar
 
1996 34' Excella
Elberta , Alabama
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 707
Quote:
Originally Posted by LAWBC View Post
I have done wood finishing for 20 plus years and agree this formula will work the best . You need a durable high build product and this would do it . Do not waste your time with with thinner wipe on products they will not stand up to water etc . The only other product would be a 2 part conversion varnish sprayed on multiple coats .http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=577

I've gotta get in my 2 cents worth for PolyCrylic! I've used it for years, as a main finish for custom furniture. Apply 2 or three coats, let it dry well, maybe a day, then sand to 220 grit, apply 2 or 3 more coats, let it dry, then sand to 320 grits. Build your finish to about 6 or so coats.
As a last treatment, after it has cured for a couple days, use 0000 steel wool, the rub it with regular newspaper to the sheen that you want....

The only finish I've used that is any tougher is catalyzed lacquer.....I built a rosewood dining table for our home 15 years ago with this finish, we use it every day, and it still look's like it was just finished...

Good luck,
Larry
__________________
Old age is coming at a really bad time!

1996 34' Excella 1000, interior totally redone, 2003 Dodge/Cummins HO, U.S. Gear exhaust brake, Diablo tuner, 115 gallon aux fuel, Bedslide, Airsafe/Reese Dual Cam, and a bunch of other stuff
Larry C is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 12:18 PM   #19
1 Rivet Member
 
CindyH's Avatar
 
1959 18' Traveler
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7
HI,
Used this on my straight grain, old growth fir cabinets and ash island top. It's ridiculously easy to apply, low or no VOCs, the Topoil is food safe for the tops. It's fabulous. http://www.osmona.com/interior/Top_oil.shtml . This one works well on wood cabinets and shelves: http://www.osmona.com/interior/Original_polyx.shtml. So far, so great!
__________________
CindyH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-21-2016, 01:20 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
1976 31' Sovereign
Oswego , Illinois
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,212
Blog Entries: 1
I have used salad bowl finish non toxic to food. I made kitchen table out of pine with cutting board top top only finished with mineral oil only care is do not let water set will leave black stain, wipe any spills. I set hot pans on small hot pad no damage, try this with any other finish. I have scratched, sanded out simple to refinish just wipe with oil any other finish not so easy ti fix. My counter tops are granite, cut on, only prob. used 1/8 radius on edges instead of bevel have some nicks on edges, I started with wood finishes 66 yrs. ago used about every thing, still only mineral oil on food surfaces.
__________________
featherbedder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2016, 09:17 PM   #21
1 Rivet Member
 
Silverback1's Avatar
 
1975 25' Tradewind
Miami , Florida
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 5
Best Finish

Thanks for all the input. I've decided on the polycrylic. I've put 3 coats on the bottom and I'm on my 3rd coat so far on the top. I'll keep going for a few more. It already looks great. So many excellent posts, each with a valuable piece-- if not for this project then one down the line. To answer some of the unclear variables, the wood is 3/4" plywood #1. It will not intentionally be used as a cutting board. That's why I want to seal/harden the surfaces. We originally looked into butcher block but the weight (not to mention cost) was a deal-breaker. Thanks again to all who contributed. This turned into a valuable reference thread.
__________________
Silverback1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2016, 10:48 PM   #22
Rivet Master

 
2007 22' International CCD
Corona , California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 2,452
Seal the edges in the back and around cutouts like the sink, etc heavily as well.

You will find it is quite durable when it's fully cured. Give it a week or more to get nice and hard.

Pictures when you have it done, or it doesn't count😀


Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums
__________________
KE4GNK/AE
'The Silver HamShack' (2007 International 22FB CCD 75th Aniversary model)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch
2012 shortbed crewcab 4x4 Toyota Taco TV with more antennae on it
rmkrum is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2016, 02:50 AM   #23
Rivet Master

 
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 4,106
Thanks for the update Silverback1, you are off to a good start. The poly is an excellent choice with the birch ply, bet it looks great! As you probably already know, the poly is available in a variety of surface finishes, and the matte or low lustre might wear/look better over time, compared to the gloss or semi-gloss. You can usually switch on the final coat (within the same brand) but you might have to sand/scuff more carefully [lightly] between coats. [edit -- as has been mentioned already]

Good advice by rmkrum to seal all cut edges, especially at the sink cutout.

Yes -- photos please when you have a chance!

Happy Trails,

Peter
__________________

__________________
OTRA15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mirror Finish v. Satin Finish????? Eaglemate Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 18 03-23-2014 10:49 AM
What wood and finish for 62 Tradewind? Tradestream Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 24 08-16-2010 09:46 AM
stripping finish off wood inside '65 tradewind JulieG 1959-69 Tradewind 3 04-15-2010 08:38 AM
Type of Wood Finish? SteveH General Interior Topics 5 08-18-2009 07:46 AM
Which finish on vintage wood? InsideOut Cabinets, Counter Tops & Furnishings 47 03-28-2009 06:52 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.