I am getting close to being ready to start building a totally new interior for my 1973 31' AS. I do have some of the curved aluminum exstrusion strips that were used to attach interior partitions and cabinets to the inner walls of the AS. I am not sure that I have all of the originals, though. Also I have not made up my mind about the type of construction to use for the cabinets and interior partitions. See the following thread for some discusion I started on alternative construciton:
What I would really like to discuss at this point is what my options are for attaching the interior partitions to the inside skin of the AS. So here are some questions:
1.) Do you know of a source for the original type aluminum extrustions in case I need more than what I have and decide to go that route?
2.) Do you know of an alternative type of extrustion - either metal or maybe even plastic that could be used? Would it be hard to bend them? What about extrusions for a different thickness of material such as 1/8" or 1/4" (the original was 3/16" I think)?
3.) What alternative attachement techniques have you used and how have they worked out?
4.) Do you think it is important to have some slip or flex between the inner partitions and the inner aluminum skin? Would it be OK if the inner partions were more rigidly attached than they are with the aluminum extrusions?
Surely someone in the forums must have some ideas about this topic? I am especially interested in the part about whether or not the joint between the interior partititions and the inner skin needs to be able to flex. I have several ideas for attachment and for the partitions themselves but could really use some thoughts about this particular attachement. Did older trailers attache solidly? What about the newer models?
I am getting close to being ready to start building a totally new interior for my 1973 31' AS. I do have some of the curved aluminum exstrusion strips that were used to attach interior partitions and cabinets to the inner walls of the AS. I am not sure that I have all of the originals, though. Also I have not made up my mind about the type of construction to use for the cabinets and interior partitions. See the following thread for some discusion I started on alternative construciton:
What I would really like to discuss at this point is what my options are for attaching the interior partitions to the inside skin of the AS. So here are some questions:
1.) Do you know of a source for the original type aluminum extrustions in case I need more than what I have and decide to go that route?
No.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
2.) Do you know of an alternative type of extrustion - either metal or maybe even plastic that could be used? Would it be hard to bend them? What about extrusions for a different thickness of material such as 1/8" or 1/4" (the original was 3/16" I think)?
It depends on whether the divider is a wall, visible from both sides, or part of a closet. If it is a divider wall, then often other furnishings meet it above and below. I think it would be safe to fasten the divider inside an overhead bin against the wall, and underneath inside a cupboard or closet again against the wall, using 3/4 aluminum angle ( Home Depot) cut into 1" sections. Fasten to the wall with 2 pop rivets, and to the divider with a suitable screw, or another rivet.
If it is visible in it's entirety where it meets the wall, the you're best off saving the existing axtrusions for those areas.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
3.) What alternative attachement techniques have you used and how have they worked out?
I have used the above described technique before, on my 1971. It woked great when fastened about every 8-12in or so. I will build out my Overlander in the same way. I will use flexible edge molding ( u-shape) over the wood edge where it meets the wall to make a clean transition between the wall and the wood.
Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
4.) Do you think it is important to have some slip or flex between the inner partitions and the inner aluminum skin? Would it be OK if the inner partions were more rigidly attached than they are with the aluminum extrusions?
Absolutely keep it somewhat flexible. Too many fasteners will eventually cause problems from the shell flexing. The furniture can be strong within itself, but then the fastening method must allow for some give.
You can do a lot with 040 skin remnants and an 18in bench brake. You can make off-angle brackets for the overheads, brackets for furniture to wall fastening, and all sorts of other nonsense.
There's more, but I don't know which route you will go.
I may have found a reasonable alternative plastic channel strip. As a matter of fact I already had a piece of it. It is a plastic channel that is used for attaching rubber threshold molding at the joints between one type of flooring (such as hardwood) to another type. The molding strip is typically glued or stapled to the floor and the "T" of the rubber molding is pressed into the channel. See the photos I have included to get the idea of the shape. The rubber molding has little ridges on it that snap into little ridges that are also on the plastic channel. These little ridges in the channel could get in the way a little so that makes it less than a perfect solution. I bought the channel from a supplier of professional flooring installation materials when I was installing some hardwood flooring in a house we remodeled for my parents. The sample that I photographed has part of the flat flange cut off. Unfortunately I do not have a full piece to photograph. The part that I cut off is perhaps 3/4" wide making the overall flange at least a good 1" across. I found that 1/8" thick plywood fits a little loosely but that 3/16" material is blocked by the ridges. If I could cut them out it might fit 3/16" material just fine. I might be happy enough to use 1/8" material anyway though. I think I will check with the supplier and see if they have other versions of the channel that are larger too. I could perhaps wrap the edge of 1/8" panels with thick tape of some sort to get a snugger fit if that seemed necessary. The type of strip that I have may only come in white - I am not sure. I could easily visualize spray painting it a color of my choice. I also remember seeing a similar product at Home Depot in the hard wood flooring section. I will have to go take a closer look but as I recall the channel might take something like a 3/8" thick tounge from the wooden threshold strips they sell. The flat flange could easily take rivits to hold the strip in place. The flooring supplier also sold me some special glue that works very well with the channel that might be a help for installation along with a few rivits (if I wanted a more permanent attachement that is). The channel is not as deep as the aluminum pieces that I have but that might be OK. I still have to see if it will flex easily enough to the contour of the body. Maybe a little persuasion from a heat gun might be useful.
Uwe,
I like the idea of using a small bench brake to make aluminum brackets for attaching various things. Any thoughts on where to get one? I think I will check with Harbor Freight to see what they have available.
John,
Thanks for the offer of photos and measurements. I do have some of the aluminum channel pieces that I can refer to.
I like the idea of using a small bench brake to make aluminum brackets for attaching various things. Any thoughts on where to get one? I think I will check with Harbor Freight to see what they have available.
John,
Thanks for the offer of photos and measurements. I do have some of the aluminum channel pieces that I can refer to.
Malcolm
Malcolm, I got my bench brake from ( of course!) Harbor Freight.
It's fine for aluminum, and stows away when i don't use it for a while.
It has a max size of 30in. You can get a smaller one, if you're only doing brackets etc. Make sure you have some good adjustable C-clamps around for the brake. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41311
I just noticed you mentioned using flexible edge molding on panel edges where they meet the wall. What type of molding are you refering to here and where are you going to get it?
Mal, I spent a couple of bucks and bought a copy of the original shop manual. It has a parts list that shows the different types of extrusions used in the original factory build. Presumably, this was so that a service center could order original replacement parts from Airstream. I will assume that Airstream doesn't still stock these parts after 30 years, but your trailer and mine are of the same year and both are included in my copy of the manual. Let me know if you need copies of those parts pages.
I, too, have wondered what to do as I put things back together. Luckily, I still have all of the interior except for the front couch/gaucho to use as a "guage". I want to replace all that plastic "junk" with something more substantial and "paintable" and less smelly!
I just noticed you mentioned using flexible edge molding on panel edges where they meet the wall. What type of molding are you refering to here and where are you going to get it?
Thanks,
Malcolm
I have seen moldings as such in the department at Home centers that carries paneling. I have also seen it at Austin Hardwoods in Santa Ana, CA., a place that specializes in hardwood of all sorts and paneling made of hardwood.I will get mine most likely from the hardwood place in Santa Ana.
That pointer is a great one for aluminum extrusions! The one you pointed to looks like it would be a perfect choice for use with 1/4" panels and seems very similar to the orignal ones that were for 3/16" material. They do not seem to post prices for a lot of their items on the website so I have requested a quote on the specific item you posted. I will post the pricing they give me when I get a response.
It looks like a person could use a combination of their various moldings to come up with an extrusion based system something like what was in my 1973 originally. Whether or not that would be a good idea will depend a lot on what kind of pricing these folks offer on their extrusions.
Brunner Enterprises Inc. really seems to be on the ball with returning my quote. I think it was less than a 1 hour turnaround. Here is what they quoted me.
F250S: Satin anodized aluminum 'F' channel for 1/4" material
8 - 8-ft lengths ($12.56 ea) $100.48
Pack 10.00
UPS (New York to Portland, OR) 46.14
Total $156.62
The quantity of 8 at 8' each was just a rough guess on my part as to the amount that I would need. I think it might be less than that. I might also want shorter lengths too. In general this pricing does not seem all that un-reasonable. I should try to see if there is a local supplier of the same item though since the shipping charge represents a pretty big part of the whole price.
One question does still nag me though and that is will this extrusion be hard to bend to the curve of the inside of the wall? How exactly would one bend this stuff without the channel legs crinkling up?
One question does still nag me though and that is will this extrusion be hard to bend to the curve of the inside of the wall? How exactly would one bend this stuff without the channel legs crinkling up?
Malcolm
You would make V-shaped cuts into the extrusion, at strategic locations. The flat part that goes against teh wall will bend easily. The other might give you fits, if the wall strength is excessive.
Or, alternatively, take the extrusions to a sheet metal shop, they can bend them to the rough shape you need, the rest will give enough to conform.
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