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Old 01-19-2007, 10:17 PM   #15
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Phil,

I didn't rebuild my cabinet but I did replace the countertop, oven, and faucet. I replaced the fake wood tape in the aluminum trim with matching laminate which I think looks better.

Here's a pic...
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Old 01-19-2007, 11:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kneal
Looking at replacing 70's interior with new real wood as opposed to the cheap plasticy original interior. If anyone has any good sources or pictures they could post or point me to for ideas, it would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Kevin
Kevin,
One option to consider if the cabinets you have work but externally don't look proper - you could glue 1/8th inch veneer to them. We did this to a trailer a few years back and over a couple of weekends had a really attractive wood interior. It was relatively inexpensive and very quick. Just a thought.

Barry
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Old 01-20-2007, 05:53 AM   #17
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Nice clean look...

Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaChop
Phil,

I didn't rebuild my cabinet but I did replace the countertop, oven, and faucet. I replaced the fake wood tape in the aluminum trim with matching laminate which I think looks better.

Here's a pic...
Thanks for the pic. I think you got a nice clean look with that countertop. That range looks different than mine, so I assume it's a replacement too.

Taking advantage of this opportunity to ask (Pizza Cop or anyone else...), there is another depressing problem that I am need advice on: a broken weld on the joist immediately below those cabinets. Here is a drawing of kinda' the situation, and a pic of what it really looks like. Can it be welded/fixed without taking everything off/out? Should I get to it from underneath (I do not do any welding, so it would have to be farmed out)? I have been unwilling to tackle the whole issue of bellypan tearout/replacement even though I know the insulation is gone. However, as I mull this one over, maybe this is the camel-back breaker. Thanks for any thoughts!!!!

I just realized that my little drawing and the pic are at different angles. Sorry...the pic is looking from the fridge toward curbside, angling slightly back. The black tube is the fresh water filler tube from the outside. The drawing represents a view looking toward curbside angling forward (the bigger beam is front-to-back).
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:29 AM   #18
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Cabinets for my 56

I've been working on my cabinets for the last couple months. I have the gally and four drawer chest almost done. The gally is new construction, using 3/4 ply for the sides and solid birch for the face frame. I used an MDF rounded corner to give it that 50s look and mort & tenon to construct the face frame. I'm working on the drawers, which will be made out of poplar and .522 mm birch ply.

The other product I used was a PSA veneer, which is real wood birch veneer with a 3M backing to it. Sticky as hell. Works pretty good, some fiddling to get it to stick. I used the product on the gally sides and to re-face the four drawer chest.

The gally sits over a wheel well so the first two drawers (top down) are pull out while the bottom is a little door, which is the same as they did on the orig. The counter top is stainless steel, which was a steal. I bought it at my favorite cheap stainless steel widget store, Ikea, on clearance for $25. You can buy them from the catalog as part of their varde collection. The countertop and the chest were my inspriation for the cabinets. The gally will be the heart of the rig housing the AC, Circuit breakers, sink area, cook top, and more. The right side will house an A/C and cook top while the left will have a area inside next to the top drawers for the breakers. To get to them you'll have to slide open the front, pull forward the drawers. Good place to snug everthing into.

I've posted other pictures to my blog. 1956 Caravanner




HTH,

Doug
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Old 01-20-2007, 09:36 AM   #19
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up-date

first off, nice looking cabinet work, muddyhollow!! To Kneal: I have done exactly what you are going to do, if you're interested see my thread titled "up-date or leave original on '72?" Good luck and have fun!! -tim
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Old 01-20-2007, 01:03 PM   #20
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The counter top is stainless steel, which was a steal. I bought it at my favorite cheap stainless steel widget store, Ikea, on clearance for $25. You can buy them from the catalog as part of their varde collection. The countertop and the chest were my inspriation for the cabinets.




Doug[/quote]

Doug, Please tell me more about the stainless steel countertop. You say you purchased it at Ikea? Thanks Pam
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:35 PM   #21
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stainless

The one I bought was on clearance, but you can find it at

http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/store...umber=30051267


This is a double bowl sink with wash boards on either side. It's 57.5 inches long by 25 wide. For my caravanner, it was an almost exact fit. The orig was 59 inches long by 24 and where I needed to rebuild the gally it was a pretty darn good fit.

HTH. PM me if you want more info.

Doug
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Old 01-20-2007, 06:37 PM   #22
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stainless

BTW, there are other sinks with large washboards on IKEA. Also, there are stainless backsplaches for $18 which could be scabbed on.

Again, my favorite el cheapo stainless widget store.

Doug
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Old 01-20-2007, 10:15 PM   #23
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I used bamboo. The hardwood is beautiful. The grain comes out even more when varnished. I would say the hard part to this job was scribbing all the curves in the AS. Remember the walls are not 90 degrees. Have a look at my picture and let me know what you think.

http://www.airforums.com/photo...?i=14308&c=502
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Old 01-21-2007, 05:00 PM   #24
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Ken J....

Read your post, like you were not happy with the double chair arrangment in the 30', however we didn't go with the 30', got the 25' instead. I like your new table design, and I was wondering where you obtained the table edging material that matches what AS uses. You did a great job on your kitchen cabinet too...
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Old 01-21-2007, 06:32 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kneal
Looking at replacing 70's interior with new real wood as opposed to the cheap plasticy original interior. If anyone has any good sources or pictures they could post or point me to for ideas, it would be greatly appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Kevin
We rebuild our's and also added a new top, after 42 years of rock'n and rolling down the highway the old one's where fallen apart, plus we had to replace the old original frig, and removed the old original heater (safety reason), we designed the cabinets where they aren't attached to the wall at all, just the floor, this helps reduce the flexing between the wall and the floor, and so far its working.
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Old 01-26-2007, 01:02 AM   #26
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I'm a pro cabinetmaker just starting my restoration (refurbishment, mine will be better than any Airstream offering, old or new.)
After gutting my '73 Sovereign I eliminated over 1800 lbs of "Original Grandeur" not including the fridge (the landfill won't take it, I managed to sell it on eBay!!)
While I'll obviously be designing & building the new interior with weight in mind, I'm really not that concerned.
The advent of modern appliances, (like a Precisiontemp tankless water heater) coupled with intelligent choices like eliminating the ridiculous oven and replacing the antique fridge, not to mention applying 21st century interior design techniques (eliminate the vertical divide walls, open the space, etc.) will likely reduce the weight I replace by half.

Jeff
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Old 01-26-2007, 01:15 AM   #27
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Your correct you can cut the weight down, after gutting mine and rebuilding with lightweight in mind we just hit the scales at about 4600 lbs plus the tungue weight of approx 600 lbs.

So about 5200 I will still add another 400 lbs of additional items to complete the project.

But I know someone with the same year and model that is 6500lbs.

It takes less HP and fuel to tow less weight, and should reduce wear and tear on all the running gear not to mention the brakes will work easier.
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Old 01-31-2007, 02:03 PM   #28
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Hi, Here's a few photos of our dinette (ignore the sloppy paint job- it'll get covered up )

And a link to the description on my thread: http://www.airforums.com/forum...n-26932-5.html
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