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Old 08-11-2005, 06:03 AM   #29
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now yer making me bring out pics of "Moby Dick".... this is before the drop kit and spring cones (obviously!)

i thought this was an airstream forum? ha!
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:21 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
now yer making me bring out pics of "Moby Dick".... this is before the drop kit and spring cones (obviously!)

i thought this was an airstream forum? ha!
That looks like trail 229 at Beasley Knob.
Hehehe we need to get it dirty!!!!!!
It needs some suspension travel. Give it to me for a while and we can get some longer control arms on it.

Who's servicing it? One of our club members is a wrench at one of the dealers.
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Old 08-26-2005, 05:58 AM   #31
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what's the latest on the toaster, man? i'm planning on spending a good full weekend on the silver pickle, if the weather holds.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:06 PM   #32
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Should be working on it after I get the yard work done. Looks like the humidity and heat is giving us a little break.
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Old 10-01-2005, 11:11 PM   #33
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Actually some progress today. The coach was gutted. The umbilical was hobbed together. The original connector was a 6 pin without the provision for a Charge circuit. To charge you had to plug in on the curb side corner. Well that had a piece of armored flex conduit and then joined a new style 7 pin umbilical at the A-frame. It was a real piece of work.

Got it all up to modern standards but I intend to keep the charge plug on the exterior so I can charge off the TV or a Generator. Plus it has a neat plaque describing the function of the plug. Keep that vintage look.

In the process of rewiring I also ran new wires for the tail lights. The stock wires were pretty anemic. I left them connected to run the side markers so I actually have doubled the circuit to the lights.

I happen to have the original paper work for the coach including the instructions for wiring to tow. I was quite surprised to find how it was wired back in the day. The tail lights had a small bulb for the running lights. Then the traditional 1157 had the low wired as a brake light and the high as a turn signal. Thats not a misprint. It had Brake and turn signal like a Japanese or European car from the factory.

The diagram showed getting the brake light trigger off the the KH brake controller. I have a late 80's KH in my TV and sure enough it does have the trigger wire. I elected to wire it the way it would be now to make sure it was universal. The low is running light and the high is brake and turn. I kept the second bulb in the #99 as running as well.

So as it stands it has working running lights for the first time in nearly 2 years. Nice new umbilical that makes a good connection to the TV. It is actually legal to tow again.

Tomorrow I need to pick up some more grommets and a couple pieces of 4 gage battery cable and install them. Put in the grommets where they are needed for the interior front panel. Then I can get that front panel in the coach and cleco it in place.


I have the week off. The hope is to finalize the rest of the wiring. Cut a new inner panel for the shower area. Once thats in I can wrap up wiring in the rear including the 110v. Meter it all out to verify integrity and install the last inner panels. If it all checks out I can rivet all the panels in and I'm down to final finish on the walls. If I can get the rivets done this week I will be a VERY happy man.
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Old 10-02-2005, 09:37 AM   #34
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Glad to see things are coming back together - I'm getting there myself

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Old 10-02-2005, 11:28 AM   #35
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Interesting!

So that's why my taillights have the extra bulb holder and wiring....
I have wondered about this for quite a while now. I will have to get my lights going this week for the pull to Pismo Beach, and your description will surely help getting this figured out.
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Old 10-02-2005, 07:40 PM   #36
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i still have to ORDER my lights! i'm going to try to rig up something prety slick with the airstream dreams Barman trim rings and 4 inch lenses. there's NO WAY i'm sticking the crap back on my trailer that i pulled off.

when it rained the other day i found out to my DISMAY that the end caps are leaking pretty bad. have you had any problems with your end caps leaking, 59? i found practically NO trace of sealer on mine when i replaced the lower corners... so when i start replacing the side panels next weekend, i'm probably going to have to drill out all the rivets on those panels and reseal them with vulkem, unless there is an easier way of doing this that you know? i'm planning on a wooden interior, and DO NOT want leaks in the future!

jordan
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Old 10-02-2005, 08:00 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
So that's why my taillights have the extra bulb holder and wiring....
I have wondered about this for quite a while now. I will have to get my lights going this week for the pull to Pismo Beach, and your description will surely help getting this figured out.
The wiring color if it still has its original umbilical is:

Black= "Stop" Wire those with the marker lights.
Red is Left/Stop Turn in todays standard Stop.
Yellow is Right Turn/Stop
Green is parking lights
Blue is the brakes
White is ground

The new umbilical is different colors. I Think they are current standard. If you need them let me know. My notes on that are in the garage.
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Old 10-02-2005, 08:14 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
when it rained the other day i found out to my DISMAY that the end caps are leaking pretty bad. have you had any problems with your end caps leaking, 59? i found practically NO trace of sealer on mine when i replaced the lower corners... so when i start replacing the side panels next weekend, i'm probably going to have to drill out all the rivets on those panels and reseal them with vulkem, unless there is an easier way of doing this that you know? i'm planning on a wooden interior, and DO NOT want leaks in the future!

jordan
Yeah I have leaks. I actually have a tarp over the rear because it leaks so bad. Front is not so bad. I think when the floor rots out it beats the hell out of the end caps and loosens up the rivets and it looses its seal.

I never removed my inner cap so I cant see exactly where its leaking. I am trying to figure out if its where the cap meets the body or if its the window frame. My rear window was ripped out and I am hoping its where the leak is but after you saying that then I may need to look at the crown of the cap. I had reseal the center panels and slowed the leaks down but not stopped. Think I will order Acryl-R from Airstream and see how it goes. Hell I may just drive over to the local Dealer if they have it in stock.
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Old 10-02-2005, 09:13 PM   #39
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I found the leaks in mine by running a strip of duct tape over the inside of the seam, then hooking up an air hose to it. I set the air flow low, and sprayed the outside with soapy water.

There were a few spots up high that leaked. A few minutes with the parbond fixed it, then I smeared the inside with Sikaflex.

I also took the eyebrow off the rear window, opened up the bottom 18" of the seams, put sikaflex on the fay surfaces and riveted it back together. Hasn't leaked since.
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Old 10-02-2005, 10:03 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
when it rained the other day i found out to my DISMAY that the end caps are leaking pretty bad. have you had any problems with your end caps leaking, 59? i found practically NO trace of sealer on mine when i replaced the lower corners... so when i start replacing the side panels next weekend, i'm probably going to have to drill out all the rivets on those panels and reseal them with vulkem, unless there is an easier way of doing this that you know? i'm planning on a wooden interior, and DO NOT want leaks in the future!

jordan
Jordan,

I used a few quarts of a product by Wόrth, called Sabesto flexible seam sealer. It is made for sealing metal to metal seams in auto body and aircraft applications, or whereever the sealer needs to stick to aluminum or other sheet metal.
It stays flexible after it dries, and applies with a brush, or a drywall knife.
I thoroughly applied it to all the interior seams in the roof's outer skin, from the inside, before I installed the new insulation.
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Old 10-02-2005, 11:58 PM   #41
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sealing joints

uwe, where did you purchase Wόrth, called Sabesto flexible seam sealer. Do they have a web page? I just took off the bottom skins on the inside of our Bambi. Did you take off all interior skins before of after you lifted off the shell. I think what you have done would be a good thing for me to follow. Resealing all joints is probably better done now than latter.
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Old 10-03-2005, 10:15 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
uwe, where did you purchase Wόrth, called Sabesto flexible seam sealer. Do they have a web page? I just took off the bottom skins on the inside of our Bambi. Did you take off all interior skins before of after you lifted off the shell. I think what you have done would be a good thing for me to follow. Resealing all joints is probably better done now than latter.
Don
I have an account with them through my business

Here is the link to the page:
http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/l...th=06.0411.jpg
Here is their main portal:

www.wurthusa.com

I do not know if they sell to individuals, but a quick call or e-mail should clarify this.

I removed the lower interior skins before taking off the shell, left the upper ones in place for torsional rigidity.
I also installed braces to the lower ribs to secure the position of the shell, at least somewhat.
I did not remove the upper skins and end caps until the shell was back on it's frame, and riveted in place. I am glad I did it this way, because short of the bathtub, everything went back on perfectly, in their old rivet holes, with perhaps 3 or 4 exceptions, where I replaced or added horizontal rib sections.
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