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Old 07-11-2004, 09:58 AM   #15
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how about under the stove?

anyone have a clue how to remove that one? its a horizontally moving tambour underneath the stove/oven. mine has a couple of broken slats, and it was always very difficult to move. I did manage to loosen it up w/ silicone and some graphite lubricant. feels like the problem is that some loose end its catching on part of the scroll, because if you wiggle it enough to get it past that one hang-up, it slides easily. I'm sure that if I could get it out, I could re-hab it...but as with your bathroom tambour, I can't figure out how to get it off of there without removing the whole oven.

tips?
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Old 07-11-2004, 06:25 PM   #16
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Chuck,

It's not too bad to remove the one your talking about. Look in my first picture. You simply remove the three screws shown from each side and wiggle the whole thing. It will come out togther or in three peices, either way. To put it back reverse the steps.

The following pictures showed how I made regular cabinet doors to replace mine. I like them much much better. The only rolling tambours I use now are the ones on the tops.
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Old 07-11-2004, 06:28 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Brawner
SafariTim,
I had the same problem with our '71 Safari bathroom tambor. After taking it out several times and working with it, I finally gave up and closed the door and don't plan to ever try to open it again. Just won't slide open and closed without a lot of cussin'. Really don't need the space anyway.
Dan
Thanks for that Dan. You and Uwe (say that five times fast ) are sure making me feel better about it!

I'm glad I can open far enought to access the TP though
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Old 07-11-2004, 06:58 PM   #18
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Angry Oh yeah!!!

I'm still drenched with sweat trying to get that thing to work...all the other tambour doors in my newly purchased Argosy '78 work as slick as butter...This seems to be a common problem...after I reached into the cabinet with the door nearly closed but enough to allow my arm in...I lined up all the ends top and bottem into the grooves...and alas..it was still sticking arghhhhh!!!!so I justy closed it enough to gain easy entry . I'm tempted to install something else but too many other things to do...and it's part of the AS "look"...This will be a good resource when I finally have had it....Kate
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Old 07-12-2004, 08:42 AM   #19
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Tim, I was talking about the one under the stove, as in your second pic. nice doors, btw. I'll have to look for hinges that wrap around like that. are they hard to find? They look better than what I have now, that's for sure. a PO removed all my tambour...except for the one under the stove, and the little narrow one just beneath the counter.
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Safari Tim
Chuck,

It's not too bad to remove the one your talking about. Look in my first picture. You simply remove the three screws shown from each side and wiggle the whole thing. It will come out togther or in three peices, either way. To put it back reverse the steps.

The following pictures showed how I made regular cabinet doors to replace mine. I like them much much better. The only rolling tambours I use now are the ones on the tops.

I would like to make cabinet doors to replace my tambour doors on the bottom. Did you use Luan, or what type wood, also, how about hinges? Did you use magnets as well?
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Old 07-12-2004, 09:25 AM   #21
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I pulled out my tambour and built doors out of 1 x 2 pine and Formica. It wasn't difficult to do, just time consuming. I used the existing kitchen frames. It would have been easier to have just torn it all out and started from scratch. But, I like the way it turned out.

You can see a few of the pix and how I did it at....

Cabinet Pix
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Old 07-12-2004, 10:34 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneakinup
I pulled out my tambour and built doors out of 1 x 2 pine and Formica. It wasn't difficult to do, just time consuming. I used the existing kitchen frames. It would have been easier to have just torn it all out and started from scratch. But, I like the way it turned out.

You can see a few of the pix and how I did it at....

Cabinet Pix

That is fantastic. I appreciate you posting the link to the other pics. Hopefully I can do something like you did one day. it looks great. Also, what type of paint did you use to paint the inside of your trailer? Did you paint over the existing veneer? I assume you used a sprayer?
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Old 07-12-2004, 11:01 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck
Tim, I was talking about the one under the stove, as in your second pic. nice doors, btw. I'll have to look for hinges that wrap around like that. are they hard to find? They look better than what I have now, that's for sure. a PO removed all my tambour...except for the one under the stove, and the little narrow one just beneath the counter.
Sorry about that Chuck.

I totally missed the fact you mentioned these were the horizontal tambours. All of mine were missing in that location. That's why I had to build the new ones. The PO just put wall paneling in the grooves that slide back and forth and were falling apart anyway.

I think the hinges I used were 3/8" offset hinges. Available at the local hardware store.

Wow, Sneakinup, those pictures look great. Nice job
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Old 07-13-2004, 12:57 AM   #24
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Sorry I missed most of this thread. Tim, nice job on the photos and description of your repairs - you are really good at that and it is helpful to all of us. My tambour doors all work, but some are starting to show some warpage in the tambour, perhaps from heat, and I know they will start to fail soon. Oddly, the one in the bathroom works like a dream, maybe the PO didn't shower in there much, which I think would be hard on the fabric backing.

I'm in Portland at a conference and staying in the Safari. Today it was 95 degrees and that butt-ugly AC unit that I want to rip out did a nice job of cooling her down when I got back late in the day.

john
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Old 07-13-2004, 01:08 AM   #25
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Thanks for the kind words John

We use our shower facilities exclusively when camping. Just love the convenince. Expecially with our 2 year old.

Glad your A/C kept you cool! Guess you have the original one from your description They are supposed to be real good ones.

I am quite happy with my Penquin. Does a nice job for us.
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Diesel Pusher
That is fantastic. I appreciate you posting the link to the other pics. Hopefully I can do something like you did one day. it looks great. Also, what type of paint did you use to paint the inside of your trailer? Did you paint over the existing veneer? I assume you used a sprayer?
Thanks.

I did use a sprayer and covered everything with Kilz first. Then I just used a good quality latex paint. I sprayed all the dark walnut simulated wood. Watching the transformation was amazing. I think it makes the inside of the trailer feel much larger and not closed in. My interior panels were all in excellent shape except for the tambour on the lower kitchen cabinets. It was a lot of work, but then again, what project on an Airstream isn't a lot of work? (rhetorical question)
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Old 07-13-2004, 07:26 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sneakinup
Thanks.

I did use a sprayer and covered everything with Kilz first. Then I just used a good quality latex paint. I sprayed all the dark walnut simulated wood. Watching the transformation was amazing. I think it makes the inside of the trailer feel much larger and not closed in. My interior panels were all in excellent shape except for the tambour on the lower kitchen cabinets. It was a lot of work, but then again, what project on an Airstream isn't a lot of work? (rhetorical question)

Thanks for the reply. I showed my wife your pictures and she said that she wanted us to get ours painted as well. I don't like the dark, veneer, that is there, I agree with you that it makes the space seem larger. After a good coat of Kilz, did you have to put two or three coats of the latex? Also, I assume you used a flat or egg shell type finish, not a gloss right?
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Old 08-09-2004, 01:16 PM   #28
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Tim,

My bathroom tambour worked great until, when working on the Univolt, I leaned against it and pushed the middle section of the top out of the track. Witht the curve like it is, the door can't negotiate it so I can only close it halfway. Any suggestions on how to get it back in the track would be appreciated.

Thank you,
Steve
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