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Old 01-27-2014, 10:03 PM   #1
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'60s Cabinet: How To Class

On my Sovereign project I'm going to keep the vintage vibe alive and want get thinking…

I'll fess up that I am a big fan of the bent ply rounded corners that I've seen on other members projects and would love to incorporate them along with metal soft close sliders if weight permits. But, is it possible to get the vintage, near atomic feel with these amendments?

My cabinets are all there but are shot; what I'm looking for is a guide or tips on the cabinetry. I'm seeing a lot of threads with 1" x 2" material + Kreg jig construction and some on how to remake the tall hollow pantry and wardrobe doors and thought there might be a detailed guide hiding somewhere?

So far I haven't found any shop plans or cut lists for the cabinets and they've got be out there somewhere?

...confession, although I have built fine furniture that's been exhibited and am fine with joinery I have never built anything with traditional face frame construction. Cabinet making is a skill that I would love to be able to turn my hand to.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:32 PM   #2
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I've been studying up a bit more and there's some info about Airstreams using a European style of cabinet construction but it's unclear how that's any different from North American. Any how just wanted to throw the thread up a bit in case there are some cabinet gods about….
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Old 03-11-2014, 05:48 PM   #3
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william, I am a cabinet guy as well, but I do mostly euro style. I don't see why it wouldn't work. blum makes great hardware that I think would do just fine. I have questions on attaching / trailer movement and flexing. I haven't done our project yet, maybe we could compare notes and ideas ? I want to do ours in a Art Deco style . look forward to hearing from you
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:03 AM   #4
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I built all face frame cabinets for Little Girl. One advantage I think they have over euro style is the doors are supported by the face frame, so the walls or partitions can be made from 1/4" ply. Partitions are not even needed every place you have a door, so you can have a big open area behind a few doors if you want. Euro style needs a beefier partition since it needs to hold the door, and that adds weight.

When I build cabinets, I make the face frame first. My cut list is the drawing I make for each cabinet. plus adjustments I make on the fly. I've attached a few PDF files for some of the various cabinets I've built for Little Girl to give you and idea. Quite often, my Visio drawing is more precise than I need, so measurements like 10.78" are rounded to 10 3/4".

After I have the face frame built, I pretty much hold it in place and get measurements for the walls/partitions and then cut those. For the wardrobes, I routed a dado in the back of each face frame stile to hold the 1/2" plywood partitions.

Joinery for the face frames is pocket screws (Kreg jig). Make sure the end cuts are square or you'll end with a slightly out of square frame. I find this system works well. It's quick and the joints are strong - stronger than I ever thought they would be when I first started using pocket screws.

Chris
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Old 03-12-2014, 11:54 AM   #5
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Thanks guys, I think face frame seems the way to go. How do you prepare the rail and stile materials? I am planer/ jointer less for the last 5 years and don't really want to lose the space in my garage or heavily invest again in monster machinery. I could go for a $400 Dewalt bench planer I suppose, coupled with a TS and a few routers I still have. Would that be doable or is a jointer necessary to get the rails perfectly straight?

I do like the idea of tall cabinets with several drawers all behind one tall slim door.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Thanks guys, I think face frame seems the way to go. How do you prepare the rail and stile materials? I am planer/ jointer less for the last 5 years and don't really want to lose the space in my garage or heavily invest again in monster machinery. I could go for a $400 Dewalt bench planer I suppose, coupled with a TS and a few routers I still have. Would that be doable or is a jointer necessary to get the rails perfectly straight?

I do like the idea of tall cabinets with several drawers all behind one tall slim door.
Jointers are nice, but if your saw is good, the cut will be mostly straight and you can clean up the kerf marks with a hand plane. I would invest in a Kreg jig and hold it all together with pocket screws, makes it all pretty painless. Do you have a miter saw or some way of getting good 90 degree cuts?

If you buy S4S stock, you can skip the planer too.

How are you planning on doing the doors and drawers?
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:35 PM   #7
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Straight rails and stiles are kinda nice...

Having said that, I rarely use a jointer or planer on the face frames. Only if I'm making my own 3/4" stock out of thicker boards or rough-cut boards.

Once dimensioned to 3/4" thick, or using stock that's already 3/4" thick, cutting them to the correct width on the table saw works just fine, followed by a light sanding to remove the saw marks. It's much easier to sand the inside edges before you assemble the frame. It's more critical that the end cuts be perfectly square so you get a tight joint that's nice and flat.

If you've never pocket screwed joints before, be sure to buy the jig, the special drill bit, and at least one vise-grip type clamp to hold the boards flush to each other while you drive the screws home. If they are not clamped fairly tightly together, they will not end up flush. You're driving the screws at an angle (15 degrees I think), and it will pull joint out of alignment fairly easily if not clamped. I find 1 1/4" pocket screws are the size I use most often for 3/4" stock. I do have 1" and 1 1/2" pocket screws as well. 1" works well to attach 1/2" plywood to the back of a face frame.

If you're thinking about a small bench-top planer, how about a small bench-top jointer? I've used a 4" bench-top jointer for years from Sears. My planer is a 13" bench-top model.

Chris
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:42 PM   #8
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Hi Bob, yup I have a chop saw and a dual compound sliding 10" Bosch so the 90's. I'm still thinking my way around the whole cabinet deal but quite like the idea of ordering the drawer boxes online, I could go for poplar boxes, blind dovetails on the front, in pretty much any thickness but maybe 1/2" fronts, 3/8" sides and back with a 1/4" ply base? They seem like a decent deal and from what I read if I go with a reputable builder are of good quality. For the drawers on display I could add a false front, for those behind doors they could stay au naturel. The doors would I think be frames skinned on both side with very thin europly, maybe a core of styrofoam or something, (I've exhausted my supply of Teklam and aluminum honeycomb on the last project).

Thanks for tips Chris, I put the most complete Kreg jig kit on my Amazon wish list….Now you've got me looking at bench top jointers although maybe a router table might do in a pinch too.
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