1/2" Plywood / Formica Counter Top Okay?

[dbj216]

I'm replacing the warped countertop in my 75 Overlander. It was made from 3/4" plywood originally.

But I wonder why? There is not much weight loading on a galley countertop. Why can't a guy use 1/2" sanded flat plywood instead? I will apply a formica covering to the plywood. There are many anchor points all the way around the countertop, so it is well supported and ought to stay flat for many many years.

Your thoughts welcome.

David

[stephenh2]

Originally Posted by dbj216

I'm replacing the warped countertop in my 75 Overlander. It was made from 3/4" plywood originally.

But I wonder why? There is not much weight loading on a galley countertop. Why can't a guy use 1/2" sanded flat plywood instead? I will apply a formica covering to the plywood. There are many anchor points all the way around the countertop, so it is well supported and ought to stay flat for many many years.

Your thoughts welcome.

David

It might work, especially if you use a higher grade plywood, but consider the weight of the oven and a sink full of dishes and water. You might be able to add some reinforcement in key places, but it wouldn't be much less weight than using the 3/4" .

[Bubba L]

I considered using 1/2” plywood countertops. Mine will overhang 3/8” to match the drawers and cabinet door fronts. I was going to glue/nail a 3/8” x 3/8” wood strip under the outer edge to receive the 7/8” aluminum edge trim. In that short of span I think 1/2” is plenty. Good luck

[rowiebowie]

The main thing I'd worry about is warping (your original problem). I'm sure someone will suggest a base that will remain flat in all environments.

[OTRA15]

3/4" is the industry standard for countertops, and most plumbing faucets/sinks/etc. will assume you have that much thickness IMO. Hot/cold temperature/humidity cycles will affect 1/2" ply much more IMO. The wieght savings for that small of an area is minimal.

Easy to overthink this.



If it ain't broken don't fix it IMO.

Peter

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, I used 1/2" plywood for my new credenza that I built for my living room remodel. I used two vertical boards and 1"X 2" Oak horizontally to keep it light and straight.

[SeeMore]

I recommend using 1/2 inch "Baltic Birch" plywood. It is preferable because of it's all-birch veneer laminated core that is cross-banded and bonded with exterior grade glue that makes a superior, stable sheet material.

The cross-banded layers of 1.5 mm thick birch veneer makes the sheets balanced, which promises a flatter product that standard grade plywood, and is less subject to warping. Because the core layers of Baltic birch are actually solid veneers of birch (rather than a softer, secondary wood) and form a void-free core, screws bite and hold with 100% of their threads.

Since you are planning to add a laminate final layer, ask your local supplier for either BB/CP or CP/CP grade. Pricing is tied to exposed surface blemishes and these lower grades will have visual color and/or patch blemishes, but are structurally sound for your application. You don't need B/BB which is exposed grain cabinet grade, but 4x8 sheets are typically available from your local big box store for ~$45.

[Isuzusweet]

+1 on the above post. I used Baltic Birch plywood on my countertop. 5/8" Baltic Birch is actually 9/16", FYI.

I also used a solid core white Formica, so no black lines, can be sanded if scratched and thicker.

http://www.formica.com/en-gb/product...re#swatchesTab

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[kidjedi]

A lot of these suggestions require custom orders (special plywood), which may be difficult depending on your location and access to resources. If you just want to walk into your local big box store and get the work done, you may want to consider MDF. It's heavier than plywood, but it's more stable and is the preferred substrate for laminate, just make sure it's properly supported underneath (a good frame).

[PCJ]

I've been a cabinet maker for more years than I care to recall. I've always done 3/4" sub-straight material, if you want to go to 1/2" make sure it's Baltic Birch. What your looking for more than the strength is warping. No one wants to set spill water on the counter and have it run on the floor or wherever.

[tbashin]

1/2" baltic birch will work but all wood warps sooner or later if conditions are right (or should I say wrong) and don't forget to think about the weight of a sink full of dishes and water 10 years from now. I'd go 3/4" if it was mine.

[55AS]

I had a new custom countertop made for my Overlander. Went back with 3/4" and white formica for several reasons:
1. More stable
2. Thickness matched edge molding I wanted to use
3. Height covered up blemishes on walls

I did make it slightly wider so that I could go with radiused corners instead of square and curved molding instead of mitered. Plywood was cut on a CNC machine.

[SuzyHomemakr]

I wound up doing a lot of what you're suggesting in my rebuild. All of my drawers are 1/4" Eurolite ply, with hardwood bracing around the edges. Basically, anything that doesn't support full human weight, like seat tops and floors. I would suggest using hardwood spacers around the edges and over any internal uprights. You can get all sorts of cool retro metal edge banding, and as I remember, comes in like 7/8" wide or so.

A detail that I figured out was my "over-undermount" sink. An undermount sink is dropped into a routered cutout from the top, flush to the surface. The laminate (with the sink hole already cut) is attached on top of everything. Very cool looking, easy to clean.

[55AS]

Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr

I wound up doing a lot of what you're suggesting in my rebuild. All of my drawers are 1/4" Eurolite ply, with hardwood bracing around the edges. Basically, anything that doesn't support full human weight, like seat tops and floors. I would suggest using hardwood spacers around the edges and over any internal uprights. You can get all sorts of cool retro metal edge banding, and as I remember, comes in like 7/8" wide or so.

A detail that I figured out was my "over-undermount" sink. An undermount sink is dropped into a routered cutout from the top, flush to the surface. The laminate (with the sink hole already cut) is attached on top of everything. Very cool looking, easy to clean.

Of the sink:-)

[dbj216]

Thanks folks for the excellent advice. I think I better stick with a good quality piece of 3/4" ply for the counter top. I will have a drop in cooktop but no oven, and my trailer is a double sink. The new kitchen faucet is fairly light weight, but I will use a doubler under it for some extra support. The aluminum edge moldings are designed for 3/4" material so 1/2" would cause some odd looking miss match.

I've read about baltic birch plywood, but I've never worked with it. I'm using a good quality wood laminate over MDF for my 1/4" needs. It is a strong material, heavier than ply. I was cautioned to seal it well with poly as it can warp if wet.

David

[OTRA15]

Sounds like a good plan, thanks for the update.

Peter

[Tim A.]

Although you have already chosen your solution, there is a way to avoid eventual warping. That happens to be gluing laminate to both top and bottom of the plywood. It doesn't have to be the same pattern of laminate.

I am also a proponent of Baltic birch. I have used it for all of the numerous changes in our Airstream.

Tim

[SuzyHomemakr]

Originally Posted by BambiTex

Of the sink:-)

Here you go!

Personally, I'd stay away from MDF. It turns back into sawdust when it gets wet, it's heavy, and produces toxic sawdust.

[MattsGal]

ROBERTSUNRUS - I LOVE what you've done here with your living room remodel. We've been discussing options for replacing the table in our 25'Flying Cloud RB and this looks like the best of both worlds - counter space for "must have's" but the table is out of the way when you don't need it.

[heslinhotel]

I would stay away from MDF board due to moisture, it will swell up around sink just from humidity and during storage.
Steve