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Old 07-06-2012, 10:41 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
Tim why 5052 alloy, that alloy is not considered a structural alloy and it tends to have a low yield strength. It will tend to bend easily and permanantly. I would think 6061-T6 would be better for the floor since you want it rigid.

I like your idea of the aluminum floor. How do you plan to attach the ribs to the floor plate?

Perry
Because that was what my local supplier had, to be honest. 6061 would have had to be ordered or made for me which in my small quantities would have jacked up the price beyond my ever growing budget I think 5052 is a reasonable compromise between properties and price. With the additional supports I think it will be good enough, but I will be sure to let you know how it works out. I've started laying in the foam insulation and thin C channels and I think the system will be very rigid especially compared to the 5/8 plywood that was there before. Here are the first few pieces going in.

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The U channels attach directly to the ribs so I will attach the U channel to the floor with al buck rivets plus some stainless bolts. I don't recall a point on the ribs for direct connection to the floor but I may be wrong.
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Old 07-06-2012, 12:14 PM   #100
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Well for the ribs to do anything they need to be attached to the bottom or top skin, preferably both. Flush rivets would be good or counter sunk stainless screws. You want to create an I-beam out of your materials. You have the stringers going in the right direction though. Spot welding would be ideal if you had the rig for it.

Perry
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Old 07-07-2012, 07:12 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114
Well for the ribs to do anything they need to be attached to the bottom or top skin, preferably both. Flush rivets would be good or counter sunk stainless screws. You want to create an I-beam out of your materials. You have the stringers going in the right direction though. Spot welding would be ideal if you had the rig for it.

Perry
I didn't understand your question before, since I was thinking you were talking about the main ribs that separate the skins in the trailer shell. I am using 1/8" pop rivets spaced at 2" to attach the bottom skin to the homemade aluminum C channels (I believe this is what you called the ribs). The bottom skin is attached to the steel frame using 3/16" aluminum rivets with big heads.
I attached 6 stringers to the bottom skin today. With 24 rivets per each piece of C channel, that's a lot of rivets to pull by hand, but I hope that I'll develop massive forearms by the time this is done.

The top skin will be attached by 1/8" aluminum countersunk buck rivets where I can access both sides and blind rivets where I can't. Around the perimeter, it will be attached with 1/4" stainless bolts secured with locktite. Based on some good advice from Wabbitteer, I will use lots of rivets in the middle of each sheet to create a fixed point that will allow the sides of each sheet to expand equally upon changes in temperature.
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Old 07-07-2012, 08:54 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog
Started work on the bellypan.
Used 1/16" x 1 1/2" angle to frame around the front of the grey tank. Buck riveted the .0625 5052 sheet to the angle and attached it to the frame with 3/16 rivets.

Used 3/16" pan head rivets from vintage trailer supply to attach the .032 5052 bellypan to the frame. Used a 4 x 10 sheet cut into two 5' lengths to span the main frame members and leave 3" on each side which I will use to attach to the curved section of the belly wrap around the perimeter.
My biggest regret is doing my belly pan after putting the shell back on. I was not able to put all the pieces together in my head so i opted to do it after. Looking good!
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Old 07-14-2012, 03:39 PM   #103
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Attached a few small sections of bellypan to the odd shaped section in the front around the spare tire holder. Since I had it lying around I used .0625" aluminum for this. I had to cut around the brackets for the spare tire holder. Used 3/16" rivets to attach to frame and overlapped it over the main bellypan piece, pictures of this didnt come out well which seems to happen often when taking pictures of reflective surfaces. I then insulated this area using foam again, Used 2" and 1" foam to fill the 3" depth.
Then I started putting the floor assembly together. First had to learn how to do countersunk rivets. Best tool ever is a micro stop countersink tool which allowed for incredible precision in countersink depth. Attached 4 3" wide pieces of 1/8" aluminum as splices. Peg board is really useful for laying out things like this Left gaps in order to miss the frame. Used bucked 1/8" rivets to attach the two pieces. Started with a 1 inch spacing in two rows but realized pretty quickly that it was overkill so I went to a staggered spacing on the rest of the splices so it is basically two rows separated with 1" with a 2" spacing in each row.

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I went ahead and used a can of spray foam to tighten up and seal any gaps in the solid foam and then immediately applied a bead of marine grade sealant (thanks Wabbiteer) to the top of the frame before putting down the front floor section. I used buck rivets wherever I could reach and since this is under the bed I used 3/16 pop rivets for the places I couldn't reach. I also used a couple stainless 14/20 machine screws with nuts and blue locktite in a few places.


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Flush buck rivets. I still have to work on my technique a bit.

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Old 08-26-2012, 08:13 PM   #104
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After a great vacation with my family in the NW, I had some time this week to work on my Caravelle.
I prepared the second sheet of flooring by flush buck riveting 3" strips of 1/8 sheet along th next leading edge to serve as a splice.
I bought an aluminum flush table base on eBay and attached it to the underside of the floor after drilling a hole for the the pedestal with a hole saw. It may be overkill but I used a ton of rivets to attach to the floor. I'll make a little circular cap so when we don't want the table it will disappear.
I applied a bead of marine adhesive and set the 2nd sheet in place. I am still in the process of riveting it all down. I am using 1/8" flush solid rivets wherever I can reach the back side. In the places that will be covered by cabinetry and I can't reach I am mostly using 3/16" pop rivets. In the places where I want the floor to be flush and I don't have access I am using 1/8" flush pop rivets- LOTS of them. In the places where I want lots of strength and I do have access I am also using 1/4" SS machine screws and nuts with locktite.
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Old 08-26-2012, 08:30 PM   #105
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Here are some pics of the recent progress. Just two more sheets to go!!

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Old 08-27-2012, 06:26 AM   #106
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So how does the existing new floor handle you walking on it? Looks like you are making good progress.

Perry
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Old 08-28-2012, 08:03 AM   #107
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So how does the existing new floor handle you walking on it? Looks like you are making good progress.

Perry
Thanks Perry,
It feels very secure and solid. There is no sign of deflection when I stand on it which is much improved over the old plywood floor. I'll have to stand in the middle of the biggest span and take a picture of a straightedge across it.
Tim
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Old 09-02-2012, 08:47 PM   #108
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I put the third section of floor down yesterday. It is only about 200 rivets per section. I wonder if I am over doing it?
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:50 PM   #109
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I'll only start worrying when you tear those floor panels out overnight to go with kevlar and carbon-fiber honeycomb reinforced panels.

Very little has been said about the shell and other trailering accoutrements...

Have you glommed onto the new range, dishwasher, washer & drier, central vac and sauna yet?
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Old 09-03-2012, 05:50 AM   #110
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I'll only start worrying when you tear those floor panels out overnight to go with kevlar and carbon-fiber honeycomb reinforced panels.

Very little has been said about the shell and other trailering accoutrements...

Have you glommed onto the new range, dishwasher, washer & drier, central vac and sauna yet?
Nope, trying to save room for the hot tub!
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:06 AM   #111
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Plumbing question:
Is there any reason not to connect a shower drain directly to the exit of the grey tank? There would be a Hepvo trap between the two. Water always finds its level so it seems like it shouldn't matter whether the drain entered the tank from the top or side. It would be really easy to put a T on the exit of the grey tank and connect the drain to that. I can make it work to have the drain enter at the top but it will be a lot more fittings and I want as few connections as possible.
Tim
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:58 AM   #112
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Good question for me too at this stage of my project

I'd be wary of setting up a temperamental drain line that may be partially air-locked... as in a slug of air that can't be pushed down or escape up and out of the way to allow full flow.

Does the shower drain pipe itself tie into a vent stack, and if so, where? What are the OD pipe sizes involved and how long is the pipe run and what is the vertical drop to the top of the GW drain pipe?
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