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Old 05-13-2012, 08:09 PM   #71
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Tim, I did not use any insulation under the floor, I don't camp in the cold and if I do iI will wear some slippers. I felt any type of insulation down there will hold water and lead to more problems then cold feet. I did use two layers of prodex in the outer shell and am very happy with that.
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Old 05-16-2012, 08:43 PM   #72
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I took off the rest of the bellypan and the grey tank and everything that wasn't welded on.
Here are some pics of the frame. It is in pretty good shape except the rear crossmember which I will replace soon.
With the grey tank.

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Now without the grey tank. See how the middle supports between the back crossmember and the next one are cut off. That can't be right, can it? I'm going to extend those to the new rear crossmember so that the bathroom floor doesn't feel too squishyunless someone convinces me otherwise.
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Here is a close up of the rear crossmember. Serious corrosion thanks to a really badly designed bumper!
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Starting to clean up the frame in the driveway. It is cool how I can move it around by myself and even lift up the tongue by hand.
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Today I started cleaning it off with a 3" wire cup brush and a 4" wire wheel brush on my electric drill. Every time I hit an old hive or nest the dirt would fly. I also drilled out any forgotten rivets and used a cutoff wheel to knock off any forgotten bolts or screws that I had missed . I found an auto body store that sells POR 15 so I am going to give it the full treatment as soon as the welding is done,
Tim
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Old 05-19-2012, 08:48 PM   #73
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Planning for putting it all back together.
I've been putting together some parts and supplies.
Yesterday I bought some 3" x 1 1/2" x 3/16" steel C channel to replace the rear crossmember. This is the same material as the main frame but heavier than the existing C channel. I also bought some rectangular tube and some flat stock to fix a few other things. I just need to get my neighbor who is a welder to help me now
Today I ordered a bunch of stainless bolts, nuts, and washers as well as of tapping floor screws from McMaster. I am following Bart's lead of using stainless bolts instead of elevator bolts. I think a 1/4" stainless bolt plus a 1" fender washer and a nut locked in with Loctite is just as good if not better than an elevator bolt. Also the corrosion resistance for an integral part of the structure seems important to me.
I am planning on replacing some of the broken pieces of C channel on the sides. They were really wiped out when the fridge and water heater we installed. Any idea on good sources other than making it myself?
Tim
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Old 05-21-2012, 06:13 AM   #74
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The moderator helped me change the name of the thread today since it has morphed into a full shell off. I certainly did not see this coming when I bought it.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:22 AM   #75
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The moderator helped me change the name of the thread today since it has morphed into a full shell off. I certainly did not see this coming when I bought it.
Funny how plans change! We had no idea what we were getting into when we purchased the Cruiser. Most of the project was fun but It is a lot more fun now that we made it to the end!
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:12 PM   #76
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Spoke to my neighbor who is going to help me weld the frame. I'm hoping we can do it on Thursday. Otherwise I have to wait two weeks
Going to cut out the rear crossmember and replace with a beefier 3/16 c channel. Also going to extend those supports that seem to stop in mid air in the back with 1" square bar stock. Also going to weld a plate over the former waste hole in the frame and add some bracing for e new grey tank. I hope he is still my friend when it is done. I don't know anything about welding so I am not sure how much I am really asking.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:42 PM   #77
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I now have a solid frame!!!!!!!!!!!
With serious help from my next door neighbor Grant, we cut out the old rear crossmember. After cutting just a bit off of the top of one side, I was able to pull it out easily with one hand and break it off.


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and welded in a 3/16" x 3x 11/2" C channel.


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We then extended the pieces perpendicular to the crossmember with 1" x1"x1/8" square tube and welded them to the rear crossmember. It feels so much more solid now. It is tough to see but we also welded on a 2" x 1/8" extension along the let main frame member which is going to help support the grey tank.


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I am very excited to be making progress. Now I get to paint the frame and start putting it all together. I am going to test fit the grey tank and hope that it works!
Tim
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Old 05-26-2012, 10:23 PM   #78
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Test fit the new 40 gallon grey tank today.

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I was hoping to rest it on top of the bottom web of the main C channel but couldn't get it in that way. As it is, it fits nicely right under the main C channel frame and I will be able to bolt it in. I went with a 2" opening, but am finding that there aren't any hoses or terminations for that size. Whoops. I think I will put together something custom with stock parts. Maybe a screw on fitting in 2" ABS with a screw cap. Maybe just an adapter to a garden hose??
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Old 06-16-2012, 06:53 AM   #79
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I got some more works done this week. I cleaned up the frame and painted with POR15. By the way POR15 sticks to my hands I think it will stick to the frame pretty well.


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I then painted the exposed parts with blue automotive paint. I sprayed the topcoat on 3 hours after application of the POR because it apparently won't take a top coat after much longer than that.

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Old 06-16-2012, 07:12 AM   #80
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I am now ready to start on the floor,
I am thinking about the subfloor and really don't want to use wood. I've played out 100 scenarios in my head and I think I've decided on one. I'm going to build an aluminum torsion box with 1/8" aluminum sheet on top, .032" aluminum sheet on the bottom and an array of thin 3" aluminum c channels to provide the webs of the box. I'll fill all the spaces with 3" thick foam blocks to add rigidity. I'll use regular pop rivets on the bottom and countersunk pop rivets on the top. Where the top and bottom sheet meet the steel frame I'll use stainless rivets. Overall this should be lighter and stronger than the current system and be more resistant to water. I may beef it up a bit near the edges where it ties into the frame. I am trying to figure out the optimum spacing and where to get light c channel for the web. I may make he channel myself with really light weight sheet since the job of the web is only to keep the space of the skins at a fixed distance.
Torsion boxes have an amazing strength to weight ratio. I could use blown in foam to provide the web, but I am worried about long term durability under stress and don't want a totally sealed frame. I may seal the styrofoam to the aluminum web but not tot the steel frame to avoid locking moisture against the frame.

Has anybody tried this before??
Any experience would be appreciated.
Tim
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:47 AM   #81
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So I got sucked into an extensive and productive discussion in another thread regarding floor materials. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ams-92263.html
In the meantime, I've purchased 4 sheets of 4x10 1/8" 5052 aluminum sheet for the floor and 0.032" 5052 aluminum for the belly pan. I bought 0.060" aluminum for the bellypan under the grey tank. I may reuse the existing banana wraps but I am not sure yet. They will go on after the shell is back on the frame so I'll be really happy to have that problem.
Tim
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Old 06-23-2012, 07:59 AM   #82
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I installed the grey tank last week and didn't post pictures. I attached it from underneath all around the perimeter with stainless self tapping hex head screws and fender washers. This worked fine everywhere except where I tried to screw into the main frame member which ended up in broken bits and cursing. I ended up running a long angle under that edge and attaching it to the frame with 4 stainless bolts. In the back I attached an aluminum angle under the lip of the tank that attached to the main frame with stainless bolts as well. All bolts were secured with loctite. A few pics are attached.

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The tank is 40 gallons and will be rarely moved when it is full, but it will be nice to have the capacity when needed. When full, I assume that we'll be driving slowly to a dump station.

Tim
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Old 06-23-2012, 08:42 AM   #83
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Whoa! That's big one!
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Old 06-27-2012, 07:15 AM   #84
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I am now ready to start on the floor,
I am thinking about the subfloor and really don't want to use wood. I've played out 100 scenarios in my head and I think I've decided on one. I'm going to build an aluminum torsion box with 1/8" aluminum sheet on top, .032" aluminum sheet on the bottom and an array of thin 3" aluminum c channels to provide the webs of the box. I'll fill all the spaces with 3" thick foam blocks to add rigidity. I'll use regular pop rivets on the bottom and countersunk pop rivets on the top. Where the top and bottom sheet meet the steel frame I'll use stainless rivets. Overall this should be lighter and stronger than the current system and be more resistant to water. I may beef it up a bit near the edges where it ties into the frame. I am trying to figure out the optimum spacing and where to get light c channel for the web. I may make he channel myself with really light weight sheet since the job of the web is only to keep the space of the skins at a fixed distance.
Torsion boxes have an amazing strength to weight ratio. I could use blown in foam to provide the web, but I am worried about long term durability under stress and don't want a totally sealed frame. I may seal the styrofoam to the aluminum web but not tot the steel frame to avoid locking moisture against the frame.

Has anybody tried this before??
Any experience would be appreciated.
Tim
I don't have any experience but I am curious about the 3" thickness. Where are you taking away the extra space within the volume of your trailer? The original floor is less than 1" thick. Those extra 2"+ have to come from somewhere. Are you raising the shell of the trailer by that much and adding extra belly pan? Are you simply loosing headroom in the trailer? Not that it matters... just curious.

Lucius
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