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Old 03-17-2012, 11:02 PM   #57
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Installed my new Fantastic Vent!

So I installed my new Fantastic vent. I splurged and got the one with the thermostat and rain sensor. I documented as much as I could on my blog:
Fantastic Vent install - Airstream Forums
Here is the final product. SO MUCH NICER!!!
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The Olympic rivets are really nice.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:11 AM   #58
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Just ordered a grey tank for my Caravelle. http://www.rvsurplus.net/catalog/dis...roduct_id=3735. It is 40 gallons and will take up the bulk of the room beneath the floor in the back. It will fit between the main frame rails that are 10" deep and beneath the cross members that are 3" deep. It ended up costing just over $300 with shipping. My neighbor is a welder and will help with some frame reinforcements if needed. It is 6" deep at the deepest and will stretch from one main frame member across to the other so I'll be able to attach it to the frame above and then run some straps to provide extra support. It is going to require a big access panel so I may get one thicker piece of aluminum for that section of the bellypan and hold in it with stainless screws. I'll only have 1" for insulation underneath it and I hope that is enough.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:19 AM   #59
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I also installed some new patches in my efforts to stop all leaks
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...-patches-1781/


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Old 03-25-2012, 08:27 AM   #60
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Congratulations!!!!
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:54 PM   #61
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Spring is here. Time to get to work!

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Old 04-25-2012, 11:52 AM   #62
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I've been working for the past couple of weeks to get rid of the major leaks in the roof. My progress is documented at this thread since I went to the forum to ask for help.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...eal-89333.html
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Old 04-26-2012, 09:55 PM   #63
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Just went out in a big rain storm to check out the new rivets. Everything I have worked on does not leak. There are still leaks around the tops of the windows and doors but I know that I need to replace the sealant in those places anyway so that may be next on my list. I think I may see light at the end of the tunnel.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:04 PM   #64
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So it is now a shell off!
I removed the floor and realized I was 90% of the way to taking off the shell.


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So I built bracing with scrap wood I had laying around. I attached 2x2s vertically to the main ribs with machine screws and then attached 2x lumber as the main horizontal brace to the 2x2s with 3" deck screws in pre drilled holes, I then made the two main perpendicular braces perpendicular to that. These were attached using steel angles and plywood gussets to keep things square. I put another one of these in the middle and then added X braces with some 1x2s and some plywood.


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I dug some holes with a post hole digger on each side just behind the wheels and then one in front of the door. I placed 3 vertical posts in some concrete at a depth of at least 2 feet and piled rocks in the top of the holes and packed it down with a 4x4. On the left front, I didn't want to dig up my brick path so I built one saw horse out of landscape timber and piled big rocks on it to holed things down. I made sure all the posts were plumb and secure.


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I drilled out the rivets that attach the front skin to the big metal piece attached to the frame and everything released nicely after a few curses and a deep breath. I added a few emergency webbing straps to prevent any big movements. I attached a 2x2 to the front cross beam and positioned a bottle jack between the frame and the 2x2. I thn started jacking the shell off the frame. Of course there was an elevator bolt that I had forgotten which I had to saw out with a hack saw since I had put all my bracings in front of it. The shell started rising in the front. As I lifted it up, I kept a level on the main cross which was set parallel to the frame. Both sides rose together. I was shooting for 28" off the ground since the wheels are about 27" tall. once I got the shell 4" above the frame, I slid a long 2x4 under the shell and attached it tot the cross member.



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To keep things safe, I kept screwing in vertical boards to the main cross at each new elevation so if I screwed up it wouldn't fall more than the last stopping point which was never more than 2". I also added straps to attach the long 2x4 to the main posts so that the whole thing couldn't slide down the hill. The frame and the shell were still attached with c clamps at the extreme rear of the trailer.


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At this point, I had to take a break so I screwed some extra bracing to the the front cross member, tightened all the straps down and allowed myself to relax a bit. I think I might lift the front a bit more but I'm going to jack up the back end first tomorrow so it is not all resting on the back part of the shell. As I thought about it, I should have done them both more together, but I Think everything still looks OK.
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:11 PM   #65
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I wonder if the moderator Is reading. If so, I would like to change the name of this thread to 1980 Caravelle shell off renovation.
Tim
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:34 PM   #66
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Good job man!
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Old 05-11-2012, 10:46 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timzog View Post
I wonder if the moderator Is reading. If so, I would like to change the name of this thread to 1980 Caravelle shell off renovation.
Tim
Nice work Tim. Usually, you have to send a PM to a mod. They can surely do it. Keep it up!
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:43 PM   #68
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I raised the back up this morning the same as the front although it was faster, as expected since I was less afraid and more aware of the issues.


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I was a bit worried About having enough clearance so the wheels could make it under so I jacked up the front a bit more. It turned out that I had just enough room so I didn't have to dig or take air out of the tires (plans B and C). I took out all of the straps, screwed the cross members to the posts in 3 different ways, and put the wheel on the front jack. I attached the safety chain to a come-along and then to the tow hook in the front of my Honda Pilot and started to pull it out. It went really smoothly and slowly since I was nervous about screwing something up. Here is the process in stop motion.


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Now I am happy.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:26 AM   #69
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Very nice, that frame looks to be in good shape! A little clean up and paint and you will have it back together in no time!
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:50 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tinman54
Very nice, that frame looks to be in good shape! A little clean up and paint and you will have it back together in no time!
Thanks for the encouragement Tinman. The rear crossmember is rusted out but my neighbor is going to weld in a replacement for me. I'm going to get rid of the rear bumper box and let the water off the back of the trailer flow down to the ground instead of underneath the floor. I'm also going to put in a bigger grey tank so I may add an additional brace for that. I also need to replace some small sections of C channel that has been messed up. On my Caravelle there is only C channel along the sides (it actually is shaped like an upside down F) and the entire front and back just has an extrusion that looks like an upside down J that rests on top of the plywood only. The J stuff is in really good shape although the plywood floor that it used to rest on was in BAD shape due to the bumper leak in back and a fresh water tank leak in the front. I am still trying to decide if I want to use prodex or foam to insulate the frame. It seems to me that if any water got on top of the prodex it would flatten it out on top of the bellypan. I've read a bunch of threads about this on the forum but still am not sure. Any experience would be appreciated.
Tim
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