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Old 07-22-2014, 11:04 PM   #351
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I ordered a Newport Dickinson P9000 propane fireplace a month ago and it finally arrived today. It is really well built like most marine systems.
I installed it today.
The worst part was getting the courage to drill a 3" hole in the roof
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I mounted it above the kitchen counter. It only takes a 12v power source and the gas line. The flue has an inner exhaust pipe and an outer fresh air intake. It is quite flexible and is able to make the bend to the roof quite well and mount on the wall it comes with a backing plate which provides an offset to minimize the heat transfer to the wall.
The vent attaches to the roof with 6 stainless screws and a thick rubber gasket. I added a bit of Vulkem for good measure.
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The inner pipe and outer pipe are both screwed into the vent fitting and then the whole assembly is slid through from the top. Then the interior trim is installed with 4 stainless screws.
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I drilled a hole in the standoff piece for the power wire and then attached the standoff piece to the back of the fireplace. The whole thing was put into place and connected to the the flue stack. It is screwed to the wall with 4 10x 3/4" SS screws.
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:24 PM   #352
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A few thoughts about the fireplace.
Why I like it:
-totally solid construction and really simple.
-visible fire ambiance
- low power draw for fan 0.2 amps on high setting
- able to run without any power if necessary
-super quiet fan even on high
-2 settings for propane consumption
-direct vented so does not draw air from the interior for combustion or exhaust in the trailer.

Some concerns
-no thermostat. It is either on or off. Once it is off, you have to relight it manually to turn it back on.
- the place I ended up mounting it is not ideal. It would be better to mount it closer to the floor, but that just doesn't work with my floorplan. The heat is exhausted out the bottom so it may result in hot heads and cold feet since it will blow onto the counter. I am going to leave space for a duct in the kitchen cabinet in case I need to add a fan to blow the air from the bottom of the heater to the floor.


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Old 07-24-2014, 08:09 PM   #353
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Filled the water tanks today and tested the water pump. It was a bit louder than I had hoped, but it works! Here is the requisite running water pic!
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Old 08-09-2014, 08:43 PM   #354
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Finished all the LPG connections today and tested the water heater, stovetop, and fireplace. All worked beautifully.
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Also, tidied up some of the fresh water connections.
The big lines are the fresh water fill and the small lines are the vents.
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:38 PM   #355
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One step backward, two steps forward.
So my fantastic fans have been leaking. Brand new installs 1 and 2 years old respectively. I went on the roof to check it out and the plastic flanges have cracked at the screws. I think there are two problems. I used rivets to attach them and the attachment of a flat piece of plastic to a curved piece of aluminum. Fantastic fan immediately sent me two new fan bases at no charge, no questions asked. Excellent customer service!
I stole Aerowood's idea but not his tools or expertise and tried to do a better install of a fan. The back was a significant challenge since it is very curved at that position. Approximately 1/2" from flat in 16" in both directions. I had tried originally to use 1" angle underneath the skin to flatten the aluminum skin so that it would mate with the plastic flange. This may have worked if Imused different rivets, but I decided to try this new approach.

I bent some .032 stock into 90 deg angle about 1 1/2" x 1". I used my metal stretcher to match the curve in the outer skin. This is whatnot looks like when you are gentle
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This is what it looks like when you try too hard.
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These were clecod into place and then the top edge was cut into a straight line. These were buck riveted to the outer skin creating a lip all around the hole for the fan. This should stop any water from the skin getting under the fan. I should have got some help bucking rivets since one of them is sub par.
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Then I buck riveted 4 pieces of 1/16" angle to each one of these pieces to make a flat horizontal flange. Sorry not to take any pictures of this. I had too much Vulkem on my hands.
Then I used the the fantastic fan supplied gasket to attach the fan. I had already transferred all the parts and electrical to the new base.
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A couple of things I like... Buck riveted flange is the primary weather seal on the roof. Any water that lands on the skin will never see the fan seal.
The fan seal will be easy to change should there be a problem in the future.
The main problem is this took a lot of work and a lot of fussing to get all the parts together.it was easy to buck rivet the flange to the roof, but tough to buck rivet the top piece of angle to the flange. Here's hoping for a big rain storm to see if it works. By the way, I think this turned out OK, but if you want to see it done right, go to Aerowwod's thread.


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Old 08-16-2014, 11:02 PM   #356
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Front fantastic fan replacement.
The front fantastic fan was easier to replace since the roof is much flatter at this location. Again, I think the problem was the use of rivets to attach the plastic flange to the metal roof. I used Vulkem to make the seal and the system failed In that the plastic flange cracked in several locations.

I first reinforced the interior and out skins by inserting some 2" u channel into the gap in the square hole. This was attached to the inner skin by pop rivets. I then cut two square pieces of 1/8" aluminum plate 16 1/2" square with a 14 1/4" square hole in the middle. This was used to create a 1/4" lip that would exclude most of the water that could get under the fan flange.
The aluminum flanges were buck riveted to the outer skin and u channel with 1/8" flush rivets in countersunk holes. A bead of Vulkem was applied between each layer prior to riveting. Here is the finished flange as I was drilling holes for the fan install.
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Then I drilled 5/32" holes aligned with the holes in the plastic flange. I put a gob of Vulkem in each hole, put the fantastic fan gasket in position and installed the fan with #10 x 3/4" SS screws.
I put a gob of Vulkem on each screw top and hooked up the electrical. I took the opportunity to clean everything in the fan when I put it together on the new base.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:36 PM   #357
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Creating a shower pan. Needed a transition between the vinyl floor and the aluminum floor of the shower. Used a 1/8" x1/2" Al bar which is the same thickness as the vinyl floor and a 1/4" x 1" bar which served as the threshold. Sanded the corners with 110,220 and 500 grit paper to make a nice soft edge for bare feet. Here are the pieces ready for install.
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Installed with two thin beads of Vulkem and 1/8 x1/2" pop rivets.
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Old 08-26-2014, 07:48 PM   #358
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Now working on the door to the bathroom. Since a square door would too easy, decided to make it with a more nautical looking round top. The opening is 28" wide x about 76" tall.
I made a full template of the opening with hardboard. I stretched 2 pieces of 1/8"x 1/2" Al angle into semicircles with a 14" radius.
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I had to sand them extensively with a random orbit sander and 110 grit paper to remove most of the marks from the stretching. Here is a before and after sanding. Still not perfect, but I am afraid to sand it down to nothing.
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I cut aluminum sheet to fit front and back from the arch to the ceiling and pop riveted the whole thing together.
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Now that the frame is done, I am working on the door. It will be a sandwich of .032" 5052 sheet, 1/2" blue foam, and Luan plywood, with aluminum channel frame all held together with rivets and epoxy.
I hope it works.
Here is the full template.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:47 PM   #359
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Tim, looks like you have two good helpers there! Keep up the good work!
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Old 08-27-2014, 08:50 PM   #360
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Helpers

Quote:
Originally Posted by youngpeck View Post
Tim, looks like you have two good helpers there! Keep up the good work!
Yep! It is most fun when I get help. Help is always available when using clecos!!
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Old 09-07-2014, 08:31 PM   #361
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Made some more progress on the bath door. It is tougher now to find time now that school has started again.
Here is the door hinge. It is a 6' x1 1\2" aluminum piano hinge from Zoro tools.
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I buck riveted the hinge to a .032" aluminum sheet that was 3/8" bigger than the door opening. This is going to be a shower door too so it needs to be waterproof.
I bent some angle for the top of the door and used U channel for 3/4" plywood for the sides and bottom. I sanded it all with 110 and 220 grit paper. The core will be foam, but there will be a6" wide bit of 1/2" plywood near the top as an attachment point for hooks.
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Here is the test fit of the frame, hinge and aluminum panel. It fits great.
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Next will be the wood skin for the side that faces the interior of the trailer. I was going to use luan but switched to 1/4" maple plywood with several coats of spar polyurethane. Except for the strip of 1/2" ply, the bulk of the core will be 1/2" blue foam. It will all be epoxied together in a sandwich and should be light and strong.


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Old 09-07-2014, 08:35 PM   #362
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I am looking for ideas for a latch system that can hold the door in a closed position and also secure the door in an open position. I'd like to be able to travel with the bath door open so I can see out the back. I believe simple is better if possible. Any suggestions?


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Old 09-20-2014, 10:45 PM   #363
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Making slow progress on bathroom door. Here is the inner material. The plywood part is reinforcement to support hooks.
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This is the door with unfinished plywood face.
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Here is the door in one final test fit before finishing and assembly.
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Old 09-20-2014, 11:01 PM   #364
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Here's some work I did last week and forget to mention.
Added a voltmeter with a switch as well as a switch for the water pump.
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