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Old 04-11-2014, 08:24 PM   #295
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Here's the wall of the closet/kitchen partition.
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Here it is installed:
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This is the spot for the WFCO power center, batteries and most of the wiring.
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This is the WFCO power center in its new home.
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Old 04-15-2014, 08:11 AM   #296
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1980 Caravelle Shell Off Renovation

Made some more progress this weekend. Finished installing the WFCO 8735 power center. I used Square D HOM breakers from Lowes- a 30 amp main breaker, a dual 15 amp breaker and a dual 20 amp breaker. As it stands, I have the converter on its own 15 amp breaker. I have 12 awg stranded wire for the 20 amp outlets and 14 awg stranded wire for the one 15 amp circuit. It is all in conduits so it was pretty easy to pull. I left some twine in all of the tricky runs, but want to find something that I can leave in the conduits for future runs. The twine could be a fire hazard I think. I wired up one outlet and it works. I am going to install slimline GFCIs on all 3 circuits, but want to buy one to see if it fits in the shallow boxes.
Here is the installed power center.
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I installed most of the 12v wiring as well and connected all the lights through their actual circuits. It is a bit of a rat's nest right now, but I will organize it soon. All connections are crimped and sealed with heat shrink.
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:33 PM   #297
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Plumbing progress

I've been making some progress and spending some money.
I bought the rest of the parts to complete the water inlet. They included a brass check valve, a 3" brass nipple, and and a 1/2" brass coupling to connect the two. The nipple is long enough to attach to the seadog fresh water inlet and still have a hope of removing it should there be a problem down the road. The coupling allows connection to the check valve in the right orientation (almost put it in backwards). Then I finally get to go back to PEX which is the greatest plumbing invention of all time.
Here are a couple of pics. First the check valve assembly.
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Then the completed water heater plumbing
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Old 04-19-2014, 08:43 PM   #298
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Electrical work

I decided I wanted to organize the 12V distribution so I bought a simple 8 position terminal and connected the outputs from the power center to the terminals with crimp on rings. This will allow for future modifications and redistribution with out cutting any wires. A little cable routing can go a long way.
It also looks a lot cleaner now.
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The liquidtite conduit carries the AC. There is one 15A circuit that goes to a GFCI in the bathroom and another that goes through the same conduit, but direct to the kitchen. The box on the floor goes to a conduit beneath the floor back to the Furrion power inlet on the other side of the trailer.
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:45 PM   #299
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Installed a new Shurflo 4800 water heater. Mounted it to the floor with 4 stainless steel screws. Ran Pex from the tank to a 1/2" FPT fitting riveted to the flow and then ran 1\2" braided hose to the pump. I am hoping that the vibration will be contained in the hose and not transmitted to the very secure brass fittings. I hope it is quiet.

I also installed the Bargman 7 wire cable for connection to the Tow vehicle.
In order to pass through the floor and bellypan, I found that the cable fits snugly in 1/2" plastic conduit. I cut a 1/2" female fitting in half and glued it on the bottom, cut a 13/16" hole through the floor and the belly pan and stuffed the conduit up from the bottom with the partial fitting acting as a stop. Then I glued another partial female fitting on to the top at the floor level and it formed a very tight pass through. I added a bit of Vulkem to the bellypan to try to prevent water intrusion. I was then able to slide the cable through the conduit from the outside and connect everything up. I again used a terminal block for the connections. I'll post some pictures soon.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:48 AM   #300
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1980 Caravelle Shell Off Renovation

This is the Aistream end of the Bargman 7 way cable after the connectors and heat shrink was installed.
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This is the 1/2" conduit pass through. I really like this pass through approach.
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I used the etrailer wiring scheme when I wired the trailer lights, but the Bargman cable is different of course.
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Old 04-20-2014, 07:53 AM   #301
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Here is the water pump. The threaded elbow with ears is riveted to the floor with 1/8" rivets.
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:51 PM   #302
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What is your stress-relief detail for possible road debris snagging the exterior cabling? Is it possible to consider break-away shear point anchor so as not to eviscerate every last wire in the lectric locker if the bulkhead fitting & cable gets disappeared at 70mph?
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:11 AM   #303
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Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
What is your stress-relief detail for possible road debris snagging the exterior cabling? Is it possible to consider break-away shear point anchor so as not to eviscerate every last wire in the lectric locker if the bulkhead fitting & cable gets disappeared at 70mph?
Tell me more...
I don't have a method in place for that, but now would be the time to add something like that, but I don't know what a shear point anchor looks like.
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Old 04-21-2014, 06:35 PM   #304
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Another view of he water pump that shows the connection to the braided hose.
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Here is my approach to the exterior outlet. Ran liquidtite conduit from the rigid conduit in the wall. Attached the box with 4 rivets and sealed with excessive amounts of Vulkem.
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Old 04-22-2014, 08:51 AM   #305
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Quote:
I don't know what a shear point anchor looks like.
Neither do I but we'd recognize it if we saw it

Looks like I am late to the party, you have the design locked into place already. Before I go on, here's reminding you how much I chafe at the thought of inserting additional trouble! ( Who me?) I am really impressed your workshop exile forced-labor is producing such fine results! (heehee). Teasing aside, its good show Timzog!

See, I can actually visualize a wall panel of the lectric-locker imploding and being ejected through the belly like something from a deep space decompression from a perfect storm of road-hazards (seen the movie Gravity yet?) ... Okay, not really, but choosing where to attach a braced back-up for a terminal board or figure 'S' stress relief (to allow some slip while the QD's decide to part or not, or allow velocity to increase one-sidedly for cleaner parting of cables when tension rises) with quick-disconnects between the bulkhead and the wire route tie points is important.

It might be as simple as having bullet-splices wetted with silicone dilectric gell for anti-corrosion immediately inline upstream of the bulkhead fitting?

Or the pictured terminal board placed to allow the conductors to extricate themselves from the terminal splices in sequence so all of them don't tug at once? Remember it might be a 3mph up-country event and a root or stick upset and standing proud to snag it then catch in the next whoop-dee-doo of the fire trail you're dodging cow pies on?

Not to complete a passive-agressive affect or anything, but I'm just saying...
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:43 AM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer View Post
Neither do I but we'd recognize it if we saw it

Looks like I am late to the party, you have the design locked into place already. Before I go on, here's reminding you how much I chafe at the thought of inserting additional trouble! ( Who me?) I am really impressed your workshop exile forced-labor is producing such fine results! (heehee). Teasing aside, its good show Timzog!

See, I can actually visualize a wall panel of the lectric-locker imploding and being ejected through the belly like something from a deep space decompression from a perfect storm of road-hazards (seen the movie Gravity yet?) ... Okay, not really, but choosing where to attach a braced back-up for a terminal board or figure 'S' stress relief (to allow some slip while the QD's decide to part or not, or allow velocity to increase one-sidedly for cleaner parting of cables when tension rises) with quick-disconnects between the bulkhead and the wire route tie points is important.

It might be as simple as having bullet-splices wetted with silicone dilectric gell for anti-corrosion immediately inline upstream of the bulkhead fitting?

Or the pictured terminal board placed to allow the conductors to extricate themselves from the terminal splices in sequence so all of them don't tug at once? Remember it might be a 3mph up-country event and a root or stick upset and standing proud to snag it then catch in the next whoop-dee-doo of the fire trail you're dodging cow pies on?

Not to complete a passive-agressive affect or anything, but I'm just saying...
I am curious about this. I am imagining that if that cable is pulled out "vigorously" the crimp connections will fail first and leave the screw terminals intact. I am curious what the typical factory connections look like? Is your concern related to the location of the bulkhead or is this present for most of these types of connections?
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Old 04-22-2014, 10:45 AM   #307
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Sorry, worked on 40-ton subway cars that'd do easily 50,000 revenue earning miles between thorough inspections and have seen some bizarre incidents. If you say its good enough so be it.

I'm still unsure the true footprint of your wire loom - and the protective sleeve perhaps has more strength than the wires combined.

In a perfect world a snag would withdraw the wires from the crimps if the side-acting forces did not allow friction build up to yank the entire assembly loose. (EDIT: The insulation should be mechanically anchored by something at each crimp on anything that sees vibration, flexing copper goes brittle even on teeny repeated motions) And the sleeve would simply slip through the bulkhead conduit fitting you implemented - but a crease/pleat at the sleeves bend would likely friction weld it enough the whole show would go into motion.

Again - I don't know your blueprint, just asking if you prepared for catching a 40-pound retread casing with your below-skin wire loom.
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Old 04-24-2014, 06:27 AM   #308
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Some photos of the completed exterior outlet. I used a 20 amp receptacle and an exterior gasketed cover.
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