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Old 03-24-2014, 07:28 AM   #281
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Looks nice, you going to coat the aluminum with anything to prevent corrosion and tarnishing?

Perry
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:10 AM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Looks nice, you going to coat the aluminum with anything to prevent corrosion and tarnishing?

Perry
Thanks Perry,
I am not sure. What would you recommend?
Tim
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Old 03-24-2014, 11:33 AM   #283
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That is a sticky situation. Typically, aluminum is conversion coated or alodined prior to painting of clear coating. This puts a stable oxide on the aluminum. If you do this, you need to make sure you experiment first because these techniques can cause color and finish changes. The stuff is very toxic as well. There may also be some sort of clear coat you can put on, but here again, experiment. I would spend some time on the interior restoration section here. I know there are several who have used aluminum but I am not sure what they coated it with or if they coated it at all. I expect the newer Airstreams use the same coated stuff on the inside as the outside.

Perry
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:10 PM   #284
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1980 Caravelle Shell Off Renovation

I finished the wall between the bath and the closet. All the rivets that face into the bath are buck rivets. The wall attachments are all inside the closet and are 1/8" pop rivets in the skin and 3/16" pop rivets where it crosses a rib.
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The horizontal pieces are 1/16" x 3/4" angle which will be potential shelf supports.
I did not rivet the edge of the doorway since I want to attach the door hinge flush there and don't want it on top of any rivets. Any ideas on a waterproof hinge? I am thinking a piano hinge.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:19 PM   #285
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Started on the front bed. It will have 18" clearance. I mad the template from a scrap of plywood and a bunch of hardboard scraps. I put in some bracing to keep it dialed in.
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I'm going to use the shrinker to fit 1/16" x 1" angle at 18" above the floor and attached to the skins and ribs. I'm thinking about making a single torsion box for the entire bed platform and attaching it to the angle with a series of simple bolts and nuts.
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Old 03-25-2014, 10:11 PM   #286
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Intalled the perimeter support for the front bed.
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It fit pretty well, but it did take a bit of finessing to get it right.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:10 AM   #287
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Working on the fresh water tanks and front bed supports.
I am using two 16 gallon tanks that are going to fill and drain together. My assumption is that this will improve stability by limiting sloshing around that would occur with one big tank.
In order to match the curvature of the front and to provide a stronger support for the bed, I decided to make a curved partition wall to protect the tanks.
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I cut some strategic holes in the vertical panel to provide for airflow and to possibly provide visual monitoring of tank levels. This was pop riveted to the curved angles. Click image for larger version

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The curved panel alone is really strong without any additional supports and can hold my weight easily.
I put a short wall on the side that allows the tank to slide in but also protects the tank from items in storage and attached some heavy duty clips with 3/16" rivets to the floor to secure the tanks. Click image for larger version

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This is the curbside corner that will allow for 48" long items to slide under the bed. The fill line will T out to each tank and the vent lines will also T to each tank. The outlets will come to a T that will go to the water pump which will either sit between the tanks or be in the street side front corner. I will probably also T off the tank outlet line to a valves drain.
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This is the street side corner that will hold the wiring connections for the towing harness Click image for larger version

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Old 03-31-2014, 12:53 AM   #288
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Tim,

I am super impressed with you interior work. How are you creating the aluminum L moldings to hold the bulkheads and support the furniture? My trailer was completely without. I would like to use your technique.

Thanks,

Matt
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Old 03-31-2014, 09:10 AM   #289
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Thanks Matt,
To make the curved trim pieces, I am using a shrinker stretcher set I got at Harbor Freight. The toughest part is making a template of the curve and then the shrinker is pretty easy to use to bend a piece of 1/16" angle to fit. The half inch angle is super easy to bend. The 3/4" angle is pretty easy to bend and you really have to lean on it to bend the 1" angle, but it is very doable. The curved pieces are really strong perhaps due to work hardening or the fact that it is an angle and curve combined. One thing I will tell you is that this is different than the way airstream does it so this is certainly an experiment. Airstream uses slotted trim pieces that allow the walls to move inside the groove to account for flexing of the shell. I think my walls are flexible enough that they could handle this, but I have no evidence to support this assumption.
I will tell you this... Now that I have the shrinker stretcher set, it is the 2nd most awesome tool that I got for this project behind the buck rivet gun.
Tim
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Old 04-01-2014, 12:32 AM   #290
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Tim, you are a dangerous man. The last thing I need is another excuse to buy a new tool, but in this case, any excuse will do.

Thanks for the info. I am going to take a look at it and see if this still allows me to do the factory style trim pieces that do allow the flexing in the walls.

Thanks again.
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Old 04-01-2014, 09:17 AM   #291
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When it comes to buying tools, I am mostly dangerous to myself and my checking account. Harbor Freight has frequent deals and coupons so I waited 3 or 4 weeks for a really good deal before I pounced.
I take no responsibility for you buying a new tool, unless you really like it!
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:01 PM   #292
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Found some time over the weekend to work on the other wall of the closet area. This will also be the right side of the kitchen so it will also be aluminum sheet. I first made a template of the wall as before. I was able to use most of the pieces from the other wall, but as I learned before, no two curves in here are alike. I only had to reshape a few of the pieces and glue them back together. I then made a curved piece of 1/2" x 1/16" angle. It only took about 30 minutes to make the curved piece to match the template. Then I cut out the aluminum sheet to fit the template. I installed the angle to the wall with 1/8" clecos and it fit really nicely. The 1/2" angle really is more forgiving although it is seriously strong after it takes the curve.
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Before I installed the angle! I gave it a once over with a random orbit sander with 320 grit paper. It was able to remove the marks left by the shrinker and left a nice matte finish.
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:43 PM   #293
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Did a bit of plumbing for the water heater. Bought a pretty standard 1/2" bypass kit and plumbed it in and then connected the pex. The hot water comes out on top and goes straight under the floor to the kitchen and bathroom. The cold water comes in from the pump at the front and also Tees off to the cold water inlet behind the water heater. It also connects under the floor to the kitchen and bathroom. Click image for larger version

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I realize now that I didn't take a picture of the finished system so that will have to wait until tomorrow😊
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Old 04-09-2014, 08:46 PM   #294
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Here's a pic of the water heater plumbing.
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