1980 Caravelle Shell Off Renovation

[timzog]

Here is the water pump. The threaded elbow with ears is riveted to the floor with 1/8" rivets.

[Wabbiteer]

What is your stress-relief detail for possible road debris snagging the exterior cabling? Is it possible to consider break-away shear point anchor so as not to eviscerate every last wire in the lectric locker if the bulkhead fitting & cable gets disappeared at 70mph?

[timzog]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

What is your stress-relief detail for possible road debris snagging the exterior cabling? Is it possible to consider break-away shear point anchor so as not to eviscerate every last wire in the lectric locker if the bulkhead fitting & cable gets disappeared at 70mph?

Tell me more...
I don't have a method in place for that, but now would be the time to add something like that, but I don't know what a shear point anchor looks like.

[timzog]

Another view of he water pump that shows the connection to the braided hose.


Here is my approach to the exterior outlet. Ran liquidtite conduit from the rigid conduit in the wall. Attached the box with 4 rivets and sealed with excessive amounts of Vulkem.

[Wabbiteer]

I don't know what a shear point anchor looks like.

Neither do I but we'd recognize it if we saw it

Looks like I am late to the party, you have the design locked into place already. Before I go on, here's reminding you how much I chafe at the thought of inserting additional trouble! ( Who me?) I am really impressed your workshop exile forced-labor is producing such fine results! (heehee). Teasing aside, its good show Timzog!

See, I can actually visualize a wall panel of the lectric-locker imploding and being ejected through the belly like something from a deep space decompression from a perfect storm of road-hazards (seen the movie Gravity yet?) ... Okay, not really, but choosing where to attach a braced back-up for a terminal board or figure 'S' stress relief (to allow some slip while the QD's decide to part or not, or allow velocity to increase one-sidedly for cleaner parting of cables when tension rises) with quick-disconnects between the bulkhead and the wire route tie points is important.

It might be as simple as having bullet-splices wetted with silicone dilectric gell for anti-corrosion immediately inline upstream of the bulkhead fitting?

Or the pictured terminal board placed to allow the conductors to extricate themselves from the terminal splices in sequence so all of them don't tug at once? Remember it might be a 3mph up-country event and a root or stick upset and standing proud to snag it then catch in the next whoop-dee-doo of the fire trail you're dodging cow pies on?

Not to complete a passive-agressive affect or anything, but I'm just saying...

[timzog]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Neither do I but we'd recognize it if we saw it

Looks like I am late to the party, you have the design locked into place already. Before I go on, here's reminding you how much I chafe at the thought of inserting additional trouble! ( Who me?) I am really impressed your workshop exile forced-labor is producing such fine results! (heehee). Teasing aside, its good show Timzog!

See, I can actually visualize a wall panel of the lectric-locker imploding and being ejected through the belly like something from a deep space decompression from a perfect storm of road-hazards (seen the movie Gravity yet?) ... Okay, not really, but choosing where to attach a braced back-up for a terminal board or figure 'S' stress relief (to allow some slip while the QD's decide to part or not, or allow velocity to increase one-sidedly for cleaner parting of cables when tension rises) with quick-disconnects between the bulkhead and the wire route tie points is important.

It might be as simple as having bullet-splices wetted with silicone dilectric gell for anti-corrosion immediately inline upstream of the bulkhead fitting?

Or the pictured terminal board placed to allow the conductors to extricate themselves from the terminal splices in sequence so all of them don't tug at once? Remember it might be a 3mph up-country event and a root or stick upset and standing proud to snag it then catch in the next whoop-dee-doo of the fire trail you're dodging cow pies on?

Not to complete a passive-agressive affect or anything, but I'm just saying...

I am curious about this. I am imagining that if that cable is pulled out "vigorously" the crimp connections will fail first and leave the screw terminals intact. I am curious what the typical factory connections look like? Is your concern related to the location of the bulkhead or is this present for most of these types of connections?

[Wabbiteer]

Sorry, worked on 40-ton subway cars that'd do easily 50,000 revenue earning miles between thorough inspections and have seen some bizarre incidents. If you say its good enough so be it.

I'm still unsure the true footprint of your wire loom - and the protective sleeve perhaps has more strength than the wires combined.

In a perfect world a snag would withdraw the wires from the crimps if the side-acting forces did not allow friction build up to yank the entire assembly loose. (EDIT: The insulation should be mechanically anchored by something at each crimp on anything that sees vibration, flexing copper goes brittle even on teeny repeated motions) And the sleeve would simply slip through the bulkhead conduit fitting you implemented - but a crease/pleat at the sleeves bend would likely friction weld it enough the whole show would go into motion.

Again - I don't know your blueprint, just asking if you prepared for catching a 40-pound retread casing with your below-skin wire loom.

[timzog]

Some photos of the completed exterior outlet. I used a 20 amp receptacle and an exterior gasketed cover.

[RankAm]

Originally Posted by timzog

Some photos of the completed exterior outlet. I used a 20 amp receptacle and an exterior gasketed cover.
Attachment 210392
Attachment 210393
Attachment 210394

Timzog, I like the look of your exterior power supply fixture. Is the exterior housing a stock item that came with your coach or is it available elsewhere? I have a 56 Flying Cloud, and I want to install an exterior curb-side power supply.

Thanks for your very informative thread.

Hank

[timzog]

Originally Posted by RankAm

Timzog, I like the look of your exterior power supply fixture. Is the exterior housing a stock item that came with your coach or is it available elsewhere? I have a 56 Flying Cloud, and I want to install an exterior curb-side power supply.

Thanks for your very informative thread.

Hank

Thanks Hank,
I got the outlet cover from Lowe's for about $4 so I think it should be easy to find one like it at any hardware store. A regular outlet doesn't fit in the fixture as it comes from the factory. There is plenty of room for the box on the back side, but the screw holes on the box that accept the screws from a standard duplex outlet do not line up with the space in front. I had to file away about 1/8" to make room for the screw holes. The only other modification was a few 1/8" holes to accept the pop rivets to attach the box securely. After that, it was just like installing any other outlet. I really like the way that outlet works now. The standard exterior door is going to protect from any direct water intrusion and the gaskets on the new outlet cover will be additional protection. Of course, this will be on the load side of a GFCI which will be installed in the kitchen.
Good luck with your project!
I just looked at your question and realized that you mean the outlet assembly. I didn't install the exterior door, I only added the box, outlet, and outlet cover. When I was researching this, I saw that Little Girl Refurb purchased one for their project. Here is the reference... http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...tml#post870540
Tim

[timzog]

Originally Posted by Wabbiteer

Sorry, worked on 40-ton subway cars that'd do easily 50,000 revenue earning miles between thorough inspections and have seen some bizarre incidents. If you say its good enough so be it.

I'm still unsure the true footprint of your wire loom - and the protective sleeve perhaps has more strength than the wires combined.

In a perfect world a snag would withdraw the wires from the crimps if the side-acting forces did not allow friction build up to yank the entire assembly loose. (EDIT: The insulation should be mechanically anchored by something at each crimp on anything that sees vibration, flexing copper goes brittle even on teeny repeated motions) And the sleeve would simply slip through the bulkhead conduit fitting you implemented - but a crease/pleat at the sleeves bend would likely friction weld it enough the whole show would go into motion.

Again - I don't know your blueprint, just asking if you prepared for catching a 40-pound retread casing with your below-skin wire loom.

So I think my plan is going to be to secure this as tight and low profile as possible on the outside and add a few anchor points on the inside. Thanks as always for the well intentioned suggestions!! I only ignore you sometimes because I'm already too far in to take advantage of your suggestions

[timzog]

Some more progress.
Built the rest if the box to protect the water pump


Built a lid for the bottom bunk storage

The rear section is hinged on the straight edge and makes a nice storage space.

Bought a 30" brake from HF for $40

This was really useful n the construction of the lower bathroom cabinet...


I used the flat square piece of particleboard to make sure that the door opening was square and parallel.
Made a template for the top and tried out the Seadog sink to see how it feels...


I then added the light switches for the bath. There are 3 lights, one very low level led light for a night light and two super bright LEDs. I also added a 12v outlet.

[timzog]

I also completed the 110v outlets and they all work. My wife suggested that we go with black outlets. I had to order the shallow Leviton GFCIs and black 20a outlets, but I think black was the right call.

[timzog]

Working on the plumbing vent. I have an aluminum fitting in the outer skin, but needed to connect it thought the inside and seal to the inner skin. I found that 1 1/2" PVC would fit on the fitting so I made a ring out of .032 aluminum and split it to fit around a 1 1/2" vent 90 fitting.
I attached this with a bunch of 1/8" pop rivets.

[timzog]

Working on the window trim.
It was painted black and I didn't like it. I sanded it down with my random orbit sander and 120 grit paper. I think they look way better. Here is the before...

Here is the after...

Working on the window hardware before I realized that you can't get any parts for the latches. Ended up only having four latches that actually had enough threads on the crappy pot metal piece to work.

Spent $35 a piece for new latches. Ouch!!

Worked on the curved front window closeouts. They had a bunch of extra holes and the paint was pretty ugly. Sanded them down by hand.

Used bondo to patch the holes and sanded it with 220 grit paper.

Painted with several coats of plastic spray primer and several coats of silver enamel.
It is certainly not a pro paint job, but they look a lot better, I think.

[timzog]

Bought vinyl sheet flooring. Going for a wood grain look without the potential for water damage.
First cleaned the floor with soap and water and let it dry.
Scraped off any gook and sanded with the random orbit sander and 120 grit.
Last chance to gaze at the beauty of the aluminum

The little circle in the floor is a table leg support hat is mounted under the floor. I capped it with a very tight fitting 1/8" plate circle and glued it in with Vulkem. I actually had to hammer it in to make it fit. I added a 1/8" neodymium magnet so that I could find it if I decide to use it later. This is from the street side wall.

This is from the front of the wheel well.


Made a template from heavy craft paper.

Laid the template upside down on the backside of the vinyl and taped it down. Cut it with a brand new razor blade.

Laid it out in the airstream and installed it with double sided flooring tape at the edges and high impact areas. Photos to come soon.

[Becky B.]

Wow! It looks fantastic! You've been busy--keep up the great work!

[timzog]

Laying out kitchen cabinets. It is interesting trying to establish a flat reference point.


My plan for the cabinets is going to be an aluminum frame attached to the floor and wall with wood drawer faces and doors. I am imagining building drawers out of 1/4" plywood with aluminum angle reinforcements at the joints. I found the KV 8400 RV drawer slides that claim to stay shut even in moving vehicles. I may buy one pair and run some tests.

[timzog]

Here is the floor.

I made some more progress on the kitchen cabinet. I focused on making the outer top corner square and plumb and locked it all down by adding some 1/16" plate to the corners. Once I got the top planar and square I was able to start adding the rest of the frame. It is split into 3 sections. The left will be a DC fridge with a Danfoss compressor- either a dometic CR or an Isotherm Cruise. The middle section will be drawers and the right section will be the sink cabinet with the garbage can underneath.
Here is the first beer on the future counter.

[timzog]

No narrative, but some progress in picture format.


This is where the sink will go.


This is the mostly framed out cabinet complete with interior partitions. The end will contain a wood panel, probably cherry veneer 1/4" plywood.


These are the curved panels I put in to partition off the water heater from the under bed storage area. The curved panels are super strong!


The new axle awaiting some more research on how to install it.


One more view of the rapidly shrinking space.